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  1. #31
    Snowman's Blocker aka Bandit mcapo's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bosshoss View Post
    Here are a few thoughts........




  2. #32
    Marksman

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    If God created anything better than dogs and S&W revolvers he kept it for his self. Not my saying but pretty much true as far as I am concerned. Now I am no expert just like shooting revolvers and that is what I use for IDPA my 625 JM model. There is also a M10, 66 P&R, 65 and a 337PD, all great guns with the 625 and 337 the only ones bought new. Ruger Blackhawk .41Mag and Super Redhawk 454 Casull are both just FUN to shoot.
    I carry mostly bottom feeders because they are slimmer and fit CC better for me. I do carry the 625 and the 65 some and the 337 quite a bit and am very comfortable with both. I put Hogue compact grips on the 625 because the JM grip is just too big to conceal well and turns out I like the Hogues for IDPA also. Only the 625 has the hillery hole and everything is intact just like as new and after shooting it for about 10 years it has never been a problem. Jim.

  3. #33
    Grandmaster T.Lex's Avatar

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    I'll just throw in my perspective, as a semi-auto guy. That's all I've ever really been interested in, particularly the pistols with a military background.

    But then I inherited a couple wheel guns (Colt Detective Special and Ruger Blackhawk). The ergonomics of the Colt, in particular, seem really advanced for the time period it is from. Frankly, it reminded me of the compact Glocks. Just easy to shoot. Almost like the engineers intuited something about how to shoot a pistol that science later discovered. And the Ruger's ability to make fireballs is really cool.

    While I'm unlikely to seek out any additional revolvers, I really love what they do and how they do it. If the opportunity presented itself, I wouldn't hesitate to add to the collection. I would HIGHLY recommend adding one as a range toy. Or 2. Look around, try some out, and find one that you enjoy shooting. I'm not even really sure what all the options are, but I encourage your search for the right one.

    G'luck.
    Resident Warning Shot Statist.

  4. #34
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doublehelix View Post
    Wow. I am blown away by all of the great responses. I expected a few here and there, but man, this is great.

    So much to digest here, I need to really step back and go through all the comments again slowly.

    Thanks to everyone that responded, GREAT STUFF!!!
    Sounds like my journey several years ago. I wanted to find my first revolver and did a ton of reading, research and YouTube watching. One thing that I haven't seen anyone mention is learning how to evaluate a used revolver to see what condition it's in. With the prices of used S&w, Rugers, and Colts rocketing skyward, it's very important to know you're buying a good one. Learn some specifics about each model you're looking at and any potential problem areas or red flags. Take a little flashlight with you to check out bore and maybe a magnifying glass to see conditions up close. That's what I've done and glad I did. I've found some that I just gave back and walked away from...hammer pushed off with barely a touch...pitted bore...super light SA trigger...cylinder timing issues...are just some of the ones I've passed on. Then I found my first S&W 66 4" no dash very clean private seller....wow! I bought it, took it home and lost it...to my wife...she loves that revolver! As far as the Hillary Hole S&W, I've only got one...a 686+ 3".. great carry gun! I've also looked for some great Ruger Security Six revolvers and an elusive 29 I'd love to get some day.

    Hang in there, looking for your first one is a LOT of fun but make sure you don't buy someone else's problems! Educate yourself and you'll feel great when you run across one that's priced too good to be true and you find out why. One of the first 66 I looked had a hammer that would drop in SA by barely touching it; thanks but no thanks.
    Last edited by firefighterjohn; 12-03-2018 at 11:07. Reason: spelling

  5. #35
    Expert Doublehelix's Avatar

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    I found a Model 627-5 PC (5" barrel) for $895 used, which seems sort of steep, so I probably going to keep looking.

    What types of things do I look for in a used revolver? The barrel obviously, and that is something that it is the same no matter the gun. Someone told me to look for forward-and-backwards motion on the cylinder at *each* position. @firefighterjohn mentions cylinder timing issues, etc. What else?

    There is a show in Tipton this weekend I might visit as well...
    James

    "Never interrupt your enemy when he is making a mistake"
    ~Napoleon Bonaparte~

    Si vis pacem, para bellum.

  6. #36
    Marksman

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doublehelix View Post
    ... @firefighterjohn mentions cylinder timing issues, etc. What else?

    There is a show in Tipton this weekend I might visit as well...
    Well it's a lot easier to send you some links than to type it all out...LOL

    I'm sure thee are PLENTY more our there and even some for specific brands and models. You just have to do some YouTube searching on your own.

    So here's a couple of short videos that will help; oldies but goodies:

    Good beginner one from YankeeMarshall: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39Byz0HqUcQ

    Some other good points from TCArmory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCu4KYtdxD8

    One from Personal Defense and Firearm Education: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ejhnnblgqM

  7. #37
    Expert Bosshoss's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doublehelix View Post
    I found a Model 627-5 PC (5" barrel) for $895 used, which seems sort of steep, so I probably going to keep looking.

    What types of things do I look for in a used revolver? The barrel obviously, and that is something that it is the same no matter the gun. Someone told me to look for forward-and-backwards motion on the cylinder at *each* position. @firefighterjohn mentions cylinder timing issues, etc. What else?

    There is a show in Tipton this weekend I might visit as well...
    That is a decent price for a 627 PC IMO not a steal but fair.
    A PC gives you a 5" barrel and has a different cylinder lock up system and different grips that probably will get changed anyway. Several variations of the PC guns out there. Older PC guns had forged parts but most you will see now are the new MIM parts that work better anyway.
    The 627 PRO has a 4" barrel.
    The PRO 627 is a couple hundred cheaper than the PC BUT the PC will be worth that same amount more when/if you sell it.
    The PC gun DOES NOT have any action tuning or hand fitting like some say. It has a ribbed main spring that is reduced power and that is the only difference from a standard S&W revolver.

    Most any problem that you would find on a recent manufacture gun can be easily fixed and S&W is good about fixing problems. IMO any S&W deserves a good trigger job.

    Here is something I did about 6 years ago. It was a inquiry about checking out a used K frame revolver.
    Something that is a little different is the newer guns to accurately check the timing you need EMPTIES in the cylinder to hold the extractor star in position. That won't usually be allowed at a gun show(and it shouldn't be). Most will time up fine empty.
    FWIW I see more 8 shots with early timing than late timing which is still a problem but usually masked by a really heavy trigger pull from the factory. Whenever I get a gun in the shop with a 15+ pound trigger pull I always suspect that it will time early when the trigger pull is lightened.

    Hope this helps and let me know if any questions.


    The biggest problem on a K frame(the ones you are looking at are all K frames) I would be concerned about is flame cutting this is the area above the barrel on the top strap where the barrel and cylinder almost touch. This happens when a LOT of .357 or .38 +p stuff is fired. A little flame cutting is normal but if it is really deep I would pass on the gun as there are lots of better ones out there. This cannot be fixed.
    Check barrel for bulges from firing a squib load and one right after it with the squib load still in the barrel.
    Check the forcing cone for cracks.This is the part of barrel that sticks thru the frame and almost touchs cylinder. Cracks will be fairly noticable.
    Ask the shop if you can dryfire the revolver if they won't let you dryfire it I would walk away.(unless it is a .22).
    Check gun for empty and then see how much the cylinder moves front to rear should be almost no or very little movement.
    Next check timing this is done by holding gun in normal position(not sideways) and slowly pull the trigger DA to the rear listen for a click( the cylinder locking up) right before the hammer falls.
    Next is cylinder lock up, as before pull trigger double action and the when the hammer falls KEEP HOLDING the trigger all the way back. Now with other hand see how much side to side play the cylinder has it will move some thay all do. But it should not have alot of side to side play.
    Last check is for push off. Pull the hammer back until single action notch catchs and hold the hammer back.
    Now push the hammer forward with your thumb.
    If it pushs off with very little pressure the gun might need parts to correct it.
    ALL S&W revolvers will push off if you REALLY push on the hammer so don't get carried away.
    If it suprises you how easy it pushes off it is probably been worked on by someone and messed up.
    A rule of thumb(PUN INTENDED) I use it should not take take less pressure to push the hammer forward than it does to pull the trigger in double action.
    Everything above can be fixed EXCEPT the flame cut
    ting. BUT will add to the cost of the revolver.

  8. #38
    Expert Doublehelix's Avatar

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    Great stuff guys. I am probably going to go look at that 627 PC tomorrow, and might head to the Tipton show on Saturday to see what I can find.
    James

    "Never interrupt your enemy when he is making a mistake"
    ~Napoleon Bonaparte~

    Si vis pacem, para bellum.

  9. #39
    Plinker

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    Everybody else has given quite a bit of good information, but your original post indicated you don't understand what the safety lock is...

    Basically, it is an addition to the gun where you can use a "key" to lock up the gun so that it is inoperable, much more so than a safety on a semi-auto. If engaged, you can't cock the hammer, can't pull the trigger (obviously) and may not even be able to open the cylinder to unload the gun (not sure about this, especially in all cases). The associated mechanical pieces aren't required to operate the gun, but only serve to lock up the rest of the parts.

    There have been some reports with the mechanism failed, and locked up the gun, with no remedy except a gun smith. Because of these failures, some decided they won't purchase a gun with one, especially for a self defense weapon. Others don't like the look of the guns with the mechanism (look at photos by Bosbar and Hopper.) The mechanisms can be removed, and you can obtain plugs to fill the hole, but will still see the outline on the frame.

    As far as moon clips, from my research, it seems they are more useful on shorter/fatter cartridges such as 45 ACP than they are on 38 special so wouldn't use that feature as a make or break decision for whatever you decide on.

    --Rick

  10. #40
    Grandmaster BE Mike's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doublehelix View Post
    Great stuff guys. I am probably going to go look at that 627 PC tomorrow, and might head to the Tipton show on Saturday to see what I can find.
    I'm an old (emphasis on old) revolver guy. It took me some time to learn how to shoot double-action revolvers decently, but once I learned, I never went back to single-action shooting. I carried and shot mostly, a S&W model 28-1 (N frame), Ruger Security 6, S&W model 14 and S&W model 66 (K frames) with both 6" and 4" bbls. I did some NRA PPC shooting in the old days, as well as, a few other type revolver matches. I never liked the trigger feel of a Ruger as much as a S&W. The Ruger coil spring "stacks" pressure and somehow my finger never felt right on the trigger. I like the medium (K & L) framed S&W revolvers better than the N frame. Even with today's K frame size round butt grip frames on the larger N frame revolvers, like the 627, I find the larger diameter cylinder harder (turning greater mass) to control in double action shooting than the K frame. With the longer sight radius, the 6" barreled revolvers are easier to shoot well, and since it is a range toy, I'd suspect you'll be happier with that length barrel. With speedloaders available, I see no need to have moon clips. Unless you plan to feed the revolver a steady diet of magnum loads, you might want to consider a K frame, i.e. model 19 or 66. I had (now in the hands of my daughter and grandsons) a model 66 which I shot an untold amount of ammo through (probably 1 magnum for every 10 target .38 SPL rounds) and it never failed me. Trigger jobs have always been common for competitive shooters and other particular pistoleros, even with the older revolvers. Reducing trigger pull weight is the first priority. Learning to shoot double-action well with a revolver will carry over to shooting many double-action or striker fired semi-autos.

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