Sig 1911 info?

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  • snuffy33

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    I'm thinking of trying a Sig 1911 but have never shot one.
    Are they series 80?
    How about mim internals?
    Any info would help - thanks.
     

    ashby koss

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    I don’t Know about the current line but a XO series stainless steel has no MIM parts and I believe are all hand fitted. Front strap checkering comes standard. For the price, it is hard to beat unless your talking above 1,500

    they are series 80’s, but Only the most astute could tell from the trigger.


    oh and “some” holsters won’t fit due to the sig style slide.... it may be a tad heavier than a standard 1911 (unconfirmed)
     

    seldon14

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    I don’t Know about the current line but a XO series stainless steel has no MIM parts and I believe are all hand fitted. Front strap checkering comes standard. For the price, it is hard to beat unless your talking above 1,500

    they are series 80’s, but Only the most astute could tell from the trigger.


    oh and “some” holsters won’t fit due to the sig style slide.... it may be a tad heavier than a standard 1911 (unconfirmed)

    I've got the opposite opinion. I think they are a poor value for the money. They are not bad guns, but you are paying for Sig lifestyle marketing.

    Not sure if they still do, but at one time they had started making them with a normal slide profile option to fit standard holsters.
     

    ashby koss

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    I've got the opposite opinion. I think they are a poor value for the money. They are not bad guns, but you are paying for Sig lifestyle marketing.

    Not sure if they still do, but at one time they had started making them with a normal slide profile option to fit standard holsters.

    does kimber still use plastic in the mainspring housings? Some of the higher dollar options IMHO are over priced. Hell I’ve seen old RIA’s tweaked and ran smoother than some newer less maintained limbers and springfields.

    to that point. I believe (to a degree) it’s more about the person maintaining and caring for the 1911 than the maker.
     

    seldon14

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    does kimber still use plastic in the mainspring housings? Some of the higher dollar options IMHO are over priced. Hell I’ve seen old RIA’s tweaked and ran smoother than some newer less maintained limbers and springfields.

    to that point. I believe (to a degree) it’s more about the person maintaining and caring for the 1911 than the maker.

    I think they do. Kimber is the worst way to spend 1911 money imo.
     

    wtburnette

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    I loved the Sig TacOps 1911 I had. Yes it was series 80, which is the worst thing I could say about it. I had picked it up on Christmas one year for under $800, which I thought was a great deal for it. The gun was extremely accurate. The trigger was good, but not great. I made the mistake of sending it to Sig to have an Action Enhancement package done on it and it never felt the same afterwards and I traded it for something else. If I could find another one around the same price I'd jump on the deal. I know some don't like them, but I sure miss mine!
     

    88E30M50

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    I have a railed nickel Sig 1911 and it’s been a great gun. For the money, Sig puts out a great 1911. The $900 that the railed nickel cost me got me a whole lot more than the $800 Kimber I used to have. The Sig came with front strap checkering, night sights, extended controls, G10 grips a stainless MSH, flat wire recoil spring, a mag well and NP3 finish.

    The Kimber came with a plain front strap, extended controls, regular 3 dot sights, a plastic MSH, rubber grips a short change interval recoil spring and a finish about as durable as silver crayons. I bought night sights for the Kimber ($120), a stainless MSH ($36), G10 grips ($65), a Wilson Combat flat wire spring kit ($80) and bead blasted the finish off of it. It was a great gun at that point but my point is that the Sig needed nothing.

    The Sig internals were MIM and I eventually did a trigger job using all EGW internals. It’s among my favorite 1911s now and is a heck of a good shooter. The slide fit is really done well and feels like it’s on bearings. Most of my other 1911s are DW and the Sig compares well to any of them.
     

    ashby koss

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    I have a railed nickel Sig 1911 and it’s been a great gun. For the money, Sig puts out a great 1911. The $900 that the railed nickel cost me got me a whole lot more than the $800 Kimber I used to have. The Sig came with front strap checkering, night sights, extended controls, G10 grips a stainless MSH, flat wire recoil spring, a mag well and NP3 finish.

    The Kimber came with a plain front strap, extended controls, regular 3 dot sights, a plastic MSH, rubber grips a short change interval recoil spring and a finish about as durable as silver crayons. I bought night sights for the Kimber ($120), a stainless MSH ($36), G10 grips ($65), a Wilson Combat flat wire spring kit ($80) and bead blasted the finish off of it. It was a great gun at that point but my point is that the Sig needed nothing.

    The Sig internals were MIM and I eventually did a trigger job using all EGW internals. It’s among my favorite 1911s now and is a heck of a good shooter. The slide fit is really done well and feels like it’s on bearings. Most of my other 1911s are DW and the Sig compares well to any of them.


    so sig does use some MIM?! My XO didn’t have any.... perhaps it’s the newer lines, or differing lines....

    still worth a look. I’ve lately taken a liking to the ruger sr1911 lines. At least for entry level edc. I don’t believe in safe queens OR is safe queen pricing
     

    seldon14

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    so sig does use some MIM?! My XO didn’t have any.... perhaps it’s the newer lines, or differing lines....

    still worth a look. I’ve lately taken a liking to the ruger sr1911 lines. At least for entry level edc. I don’t believe in safe queens OR is safe queen pricing

    There earlier stuff was non mim, and then they later quietly started using just as much mim as the Affordable brands.

    Personally I'm fine with mim parts.
     

    ashby koss

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    There earlier stuff was non mim, and then they later quietly started using just as much mim as the Affordable brands.

    Personally I'm fine with mim parts.

    I've taken a look at the MIM parts that are being used. From an engineering standpoint many are ok since they dont take the brunt of the impact, If i could choose between no MIM and MIM for the same cost.. yeah, no MIM all the way, but for the cost I'll run MIM and slowly upgrade my parts. Isnt that kinda the 1911 way?
     

    88E30M50

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    I've taken a look at the MIM parts that are being used. From an engineering standpoint many are ok since they dont take the brunt of the impact, If i could choose between no MIM and MIM for the same cost.. yeah, no MIM all the way, but for the cost I'll run MIM and slowly upgrade my parts. Isnt that kinda the 1911 way?

    That’s what I did with mine. I ran it for several years with the MIM intact and had no issues. MIM can be well executed and work reliably but I find a slightly different feel to MIM than non-MIM parts. Tool steel internals just seem to run smoother longer to me. Might be my imagination but MIM sears and hammers feel ‘softer’ to me somehow.

    Again, they will run fine if well executed and it seems like Sig is doing MIM well but I de-MIM’d my FC group to fit my needs.
     

    churchmouse

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    MIM is soft. Look at the hammer hook tracks in an MIM sear that has seen serious use. You can skin that down if you have the proper tools and skills but once you cut into the seat it will not live a long time.

    Yes. MIM parts are not as crisp is tool steel controls
     
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