Replacing a Glock Trigger

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  • reno

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    Anyone have experience in replacing a heavy Glock Trigger? I probably would not, as in a defense situation, heavy trigger pull will not be noticed. Plus I am sure it would void any warranty. Plus Heavy might be part of the safety combinations on them.
    Just curious?
     

    bwframe

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    It's pretty simple. Lots of Youtube out there on it.

    If you shoot your gun much (and you should,) you'll eventually have to get into it to clean.

    I had one Glock trigger that somehow migrated from 4.5# to 9# pull from letting it get so dirty. The culprit seemed to be lack of adequate lubrication at the trigger bar/connector area. In hindsight, wish I would have left it dirty and just lubed it to see if that would solve the problem.
     

    Amishman44

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    Anyone have experience in replacing a heavy Glock Trigger? I probably would not, as in a defense situation, heavy trigger pull will not be noticed. Plus I am sure it would void any warranty. Plus Heavy might be part of the safety combinations on them.
    Just curious?

    The standard Glock trigger pull is around 5.5#...
    A 'New York' trigger is 8#... although there are a few others!
    A heavier trigger pull can bw used effectively if you practice / train with it and are used to it!
    If you wish to lower the felt trigger pull there are a several YouTube.com videos available and you can with remove the 'increased' trigger spring or purchase a while new trigger. They run around $35...
     

    Vigilant

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    Anyone have experience in replacing a heavy Glock Trigger? I probably would not, as in a defense situation, heavy trigger pull will not be noticed. Plus I am sure it would void any warranty. Plus Heavy might be part of the safety combinations on them.
    Just curious?
    Define “heavy” Glock trigger? The heaviest trigger Glock makes is the NY2 at 12lbs. and it’s only used in a very few places? The NY1 trigger is 8lbs and stock is 5.5lbs.?
     

    ECS686

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    Define “heavy” Glock trigger?

    Unless it's the NY plus at 12 lbs. No disrespect but cutting my teeth on revolvers for a duty gun 34 years ago and dabbling with the S&W 659 and early 5906 not sure if my definition of a heavy trigger is the same as what a lot of folks think it is.

    I have standard Glocks and had a 35 and now a gen 5 34 with stock 3 1/2 lb factory and they are just fine. That's just me though

    Good luck
     

    Vigilant

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    Unless it's the NY plus at 12 lbs. No disrespect but cutting my teeth on revolvers for a duty gun 34 years ago and dabbling with the S&W 659 and early 5906 not sure if my definition of a heavy trigger is the same as what a lot of folks think it is.

    I have standard Glocks and had a 35 and now a gen 5 34 with stock 3 1/2 lb factory and they are just fine. That's just me though

    Good luck
    My 5906 had a smooth 17#double action pull. I hated that pistol!!
     

    halfmileharry

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    Unless it's the NY plus at 12 lbs. No disrespect but cutting my teeth on revolvers for a duty gun 34 years ago and dabbling with the S&W 659 and early 5906 not sure if my definition of a heavy trigger is the same as what a lot of folks think it is.

    I have standard Glocks and had a 35 and now a gen 5 34 with stock 3 1/2 lb factory and they are just fine. That's just me though

    Good luck

    Same here. I'm running a factory Glock 3 1/2 lb connector in mine. Plenty of 4 1/2lb connectors out there. $10 or so. YouTube and 10 minutes will cure your woes.
     

    reno

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    I appreciate the comments. My trigger pull gauge is for checking a rifle or revolver. I would have to look but I do not think it can measure a double action trigger pull or that of a Glock. This is basically a new pistol, Model 43 Gen 5.
    After some range time I will give it more consideration.
     

    700 LTR 223

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    As my Gen 5 G34 is used as a target pistol I will eventually get around to upgrading the trigger as the stock trigger is not that great for precision shooting.
     

    NHT3

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    I've done a number of them and find that between 3.25 and 3.5 pounds is where they suit me best but you may prefer something heavier. It's not difficult and I would caution you against changing any of the springs if you decide to work on it. If you have problems don't hesitate to PM me and I'll help you figure it out.

    [FONT=&amp]NRA Life Member / [/FONT]Basic Pistol instructor[FONT=&amp] / RSO[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

    [/FONT][FONT=&amp]"Under pressure, you don't rise to the occasion, you sink to the level of your training. That's why we train so hard" [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
    [/FONT][FONT=&amp]Unnamed Navy Seal[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

    [/FONT][FONT=&amp]“Ego is the reason many men do not shoot competition. They don't want to suck in public” [/FONT][FONT=&amp] … Coach [/FONT]
     

    bwframe

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    Ghost makes a pretty sweet "pro" connector that you have to tune (by filing down a little at a time.) When complete it not only makes a smoother lighter trigger, but also builds in a trigger stop. I like it a lot.

    The icing on the cake is you aren't changing anything that you can't return to factory by just swapping back in the OEM part.
     

    pblanc

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    The New York NY1 and NY2 trigger springs work in a fashion completely contrary to the stock Glock trigger spring. When you pull the trigger on a Glock, the trigger bar moves rearward and the cruciate (the back of which forms a sear surface with the striker lug) is forced downward by a ramp on the connector. As the cruciate moves downward, it slides below the striker lug to release the striker. In the normal set up, the trigger spring is assisting this backward movement of the trigger bar. So a stronger trigger spring actually reduces trigger pull weight.

    The NY1 and NY2 trigger springs work completely differently. As the cruciate is pushed downward it has to compress the trigger spring which is contained in a polymer frame, so the trigger spring is now working against the rearward movement of the trigger bar and the downward movement of the cruciate to increase pull weight.

    If you want to lighten the trigger pull weight a bit, the easiest and probably safest way to do so is to replace the connector, which is easy to do. There are many different aftermarket connectors which will reduce pull weight to different degrees depending on the geometry of the ramp on the connector. But you can also buy a Glock factory "minus" connector which will have a little minus sign "-" engraved on the side of the connector. For lightening the trigger pull a bit more, some will also replace the stock trigger spring with a stronger spring.

    There is also a Glock factory "plus" connector which will increase trigger pull weight, but not to the extent of the NY1 or NY2 trigger springs. You can also use a NY1 trigger spring with a Glock minus or aftermarket reduced pull weight connector to get a trigger pull weight that is intermediate between the stock trigger and the NY1 trigger. The NY trigger springs will not only increase overall trigger pull weight, they will also add resistance to the otherwise very spongy pre-travel or take-up of the stock Glock trigger.

    Here is a good video on how the Glock trigger works and resets, and how the geometry of the ramp on the connector changes trigger pull weight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WaRLlyPHlo&t=332s

    Swapping the connector is not expensive and is easy to do. The one thing to make sure off is that you do not alter the extent to which the connector sticks out from the side of the trigger mechanism block that also contains the ejector. The degree of offset of the connector is critical to proper function. You do not want to decrease it at all or increase it to any extent.

    In my Glock 19 I have installed the NY1 trigger spring in conjunction with a Glock OEM factory "-" connector. This adds resistance to the pre-travel phase of the trigger pull and results in an overall pull weight that averages a little over 6 lbs on my Lyman gauge. I am more comfortable with this trigger weight and pull characteristic in a pistol primarily intended for defensvie use.
     
    Last edited:

    Dstewart73

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    Not a big deal to replace the trigger. There are a lot of options and as previously mentioned, UTube videos to assist in the process.
     

    Sniper 79

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    Not hard. Did one at the kitchen table. Done before kids finished their cereal. Glocks are wonderful. Nice to be able to fix it myself.
     

    Vigilant

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    The NY1 or “Olive” trigger combined with the “-“ Glock connector gives me what I consider the best factory Glock trigger available. I also have a couple of aftermarket flat triggers, and I still prefer the NY1 “-“ combo.
     

    VulpesForge

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    Jan 14, 2020
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    I have done nearly everything to my gen 3 20. The trigger is probably one of the easiest "gunsmithing" jobs you can start with other than drifting in or out sights with the right tool. If your trigger is awful, definitely start with an aftermarket 3.5# (or whatever they sell now) connector. Lone wolf is where I bought mine years ago. Youtube is a huge resource for kitchen gunsmithing. Make sure you watch the video once then try along with the video. Nasty surprises are not cool and you want a general idea of what you're doing first if you're truly green. You'll really only need a punch,(anything punch sized will work, you can get a full set of brass on amazon sub $30) a roll of tape (masking, duct, etc), and some tweezers if you want to do really fine work. (position smaller springs) But really all you need is the punch and tape for a glock. The tape acts as a punch block to let the pins fall through and still be contained by the tape. Always remember to be confident in front of your pins and springs, they can smell fear.
     
    Last edited:

    mwwilkew

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    A others have said its cheap and easy to replace the connector. As far as taking apart a pistol Glocks are about as simple as they come. Watch a video and take your time.
     

    breakingcontact

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    They clean up a bit with use, but I've found that the 43 feels a bit heavier than in other Glocks. Haven't measured it, so it may have to do with the smaller grip etc.

    If you switch it out for something aftermarket, study it carefully. Many aftermarket triggers are unsafe in that they cheat the striker block and some have additional issues.
     

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