Back in the day when I did an article for the SWCA about my signature package mods to my revolvers the first two responses I got was, "why would you alter a pure collector specimen" and why didn't I go with Stainless Models". I have that issue somewhere downstairs and someday (maybe sooner) I may go through all my boxes of old papers, match reports, gun catalogs, etc. Anyway, a quick process of my signature package, which was all done by one craftsman that is now retired from S&W after 42 years of service is as follows. For this example we will use a Model 29-6 in 6 Inch Barrel. While I did earlier versions it was not before the I discovered the engineering changes that the -6 was superior. The dash 6 included a steel locking block for the bolt, longer cyl notches, and other enhancements to make the action stronger as many of us Magnum shooters had problems with the earlier versions. Reverse actions, unlocking, and seizing up were common on the line when fed a steady diet of full cases of 2400. Yes, many of us modified our older models to keep them running but the -6 was a godsend for this model. It has always been my belief that the Model 29 was 7% under engineered for Magnums, just as the KFrames were. I should point out that I never ever had these problems with my Model 57's. The True Magnum Revolver. I started out by purchasing 3 of the same model, cleaning them up and test shooting and measuring all critical dimensions. I would send the best one in to my man Vito and he knew what to do. First, a precise fitting of the Target Hammer and Trigger with the fattest stock to fit. Back in the day, measurements were all over the board as most parts were formed, ground and finished by humans. I have had some hammers and triggers so skinny they moved around on the boss or froze up when the sideplate screws were tightened. Anyway, after a perfect action refinement, I then had the front of the cylinder flutes beveled like the post war days. This looks good and makes reholstering easier. Chambers were spec'd and cyl replaced if not consistent. I also had the right side of the ejector rod housing finished like what many floor supervisors would do up into the late 70"s until the bean counters started reducing labor costs in Springfield. Moving along, I then had the barrel tweaked to perfect alignment so that the POI was right down the middle and elevation was right down on the frame. Nothing I hate more than an improperly registered gun that you must crank the sights all the way up or half off of the frame to get the standard load to hit POI. After the fitting and machining and test target then I had the gun hand polished and deeply reblued for a finished perfect piece that I know shoots. I see so many gun owners that pay a lot for a collectors piece and they will never know if or how it will shoot. I should point out that during this time for a little while the factory had special runs called the DX series which included many of these mods. So when I am asked why carbon over stainless, it is quite simple. Carbon Steel has better qualities for me. Yes I have stainless guns but with my eyes closed I can drop the hammer on an empty carbon 29 and a 629 and hear and feel the difference in materials. Most of my carbon guns out perform my stainless in accuracy but that could be just perception. I know that for my Contender barrels shooting 200 yards, the carbon barrels are more accurate as well. Again, there may be nothing to this but I prefer Carbon Steel. All my hunting knives are carbon steel as well. So INGO revolver peeps, what mods have you done to any of your wheelguns?
