Sig Sauer 226 .22LR Advice on adj. rear sights

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    Was glad to pick up this 226 in Bedford last week.
    It was a Sig, so I had to try it out even though it isn't a target pistol.

    Help needed:
    I am puzzled as to these rear sights.
    When I go online I can't find anything about them for the .22LR model, only for the rear sights for the other calibers.
    Thanks for any input!

    I thought this big screw on top was for the elevation, but it was really stuck on tight & I left it alone, not wanting to force it until finding out it's function.
    I did wonder if it was a locking screw for adjustments & had to be loosened to change any adjustments.
    But, now I'm thinking the top screw must be loosened to drift for the windage?
    Uhqmwln.jpg

    jaPZO1D.jpg



    Now, this small screw on the right side that I thought would be for the windage (like on other guns), ended up being for the elevation.
    It was shooting low, & I have adjusted this screw a couple of times but it didn't seem to do much.
    But, I didn't turn it much.
    I read where it needs to be turned 1 whole revolution just to get a 2 inch POI difference (forget at what distance).
    That wasn't talking about the .22LR model, but perhaps the concept is the same.
    I was reticent to turn it so much at the time since I didn't know if the bigger top screw needed to be loosened first?
    DgfE2aw.jpg



    fgl1yUe.jpg



    7eNpDAw.jpg
    cVrEo5R.jpg


    7igxoSw.jpg
     

    gmcttr

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    May 22, 2013
    8,593
    149
    Columbus
    Jinks has provided the sight adjustment instructions. I suggest using a well fitting screwdriver on the large elevation screw and in case it is already turned all the way down, only try turning it counterclockwise until it has broke free. It it was me, I would also let that screw soak overnight in a GOOD penetrating oil like Kroil. Heating it with the tip of a soldering iron or a blow dryer may also help.

    Clamp it in a vise and, again, use a well fitting screwdriver counter clockwise only.
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    Here is the instructions for the 22lr conversion kit if the instructions were not included:
    https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/27802974/22lr-conversion-kit-operating-instructions-sig-sauer

    A centerfire conversion kit should fit your frame.


    I didn't think mine was the .22LR conversion kit put on a 9mm frame, but the dedicated Sig Sauer P226 Classic 22.
    "Thankfully, one of the engineers at SIG Sauer feels the same way, because they quietly introduced their most versatile, metal-framed handgun: The P226 Classic 22."
    See sticker on side of box:
    7igxoSw.jpg


    The Classic 22 is a ground-up .22LR with corresponding lighter frame (23.7 oz) , unlike their 9mm (34 oz), that you can buy a .22LR conversion kit for.
    If I had a light set of scales, I could weigh the frame & find out if it is the heavier 9mm frame (32 oz) & therefore has the 22 conversion kit on it, or the lighter Classic P226 with the lighter .22LR alloy frame (23.7 oz).

    If mine is Sig's ground up Classic 226 .22LR, it does say that I can add the 9mm conversion kit & some go that route b/c buying the Classic .22LR & adding the 9mm is less expensive than buying the 9mm & adding the .22LR conversion kit.

    I magnified the rear sight from the manual for the .22LR conversion kit you sent me the link for & it isn't the same configuration as what I've got, similar though.
    Yesterday, when I turned the screw on the side (like a Glock 44) it did not move the windage as in the manual, but moved the elevation.

    Pic online of the Sig P226 Classic 22, which is the same as the one I've got.
    The .22 slide is topped with post and notch-adjustable iron sights.
    The front sight is a high-visibility fixed post with inset white dot for increased target acquisition speed and contrasts well against the flat black rear notch.
    moE55LL.jpg


    My big question now is of the two "holes" at 10 & 2 o'clock of the big top screw.
    Someone emailed me saying they might be where the locking screws are for the adjustments (maybe just for the windage if that is what the top big screw is for).
    I had that arrangement on a 1911-22 clone & didn't even know their was an adjustment at the bottom of the holes since a flashlight didn't reveal anything to my eyes.
    I need to see what size/type of a screw head is down those holes from the Classic 22 manual.
    I now am afraid to mess with the screws too much in case they are in "lock" mode: I've done that before & don't want to snap anything.
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    Jinks has provided the sight adjustment instructions. I suggest using a well fitting screwdriver on the large elevation screw and in case it is already turned all the way down, only try turning it counterclockwise until it has broke free. It it was me, I would also let that screw soak overnight in a GOOD penetrating oil like Kroil. Heating it with the tip of a soldering iron or a blow dryer may also help.

    Clamp it in a vise and, again, use a well fitting screwdriver counter clockwise only.


    Thanks for the tip: doing so now!
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    I put some really good penetrating oil on all the holes, nooks & crannies of the rear sights.
    Being impatient, I thought I'd try a gentle twist & fortunately it was amiable.
    The 2 "holes" beside the top big flathead screw (10 & 2 o'clock) took a very small torx driver & they were only barely snug.
    When turned counter clockwise the torx screws reached a stopping point & didn't screw all the way out of which I'm grateful.

    After loosening the "lock" torx screws, I found out that the right side small flathead screw was indeed for the windage.
    The torx lock screws were not allowing me to push the windage yesterday but were pushing against the "lock" & only seemed to be moving up a hair.
    No wonder I couldn't keep it from shooting low.
    Glad I didn't put some real torque on it.

    But, today when I tried to turn the windage right or left, it doesn't seem to be responsive, whether I have the torx screw down (clockwise, but not snug) or up (counter clockwise), or in the middle???
    It is puzzling, but maybe someone here will have had that Sig type of arrangement & can verify it should be very responsive or that they are tenuous.
    I did get it to move from slight left of the center, but no further right & now can't get it to even go back to left of center position, no matter the position of the torx lock screw???
    When I had that happen on a Beretta Neos, I had to buy a spring in front of the side screw for the windage to work properly.

    If anyone has a clarification on the position of the torx screw (which I think are for locking the adjustments), let me know.
    I ASSUME that down (clockwise) is lock & up (counter clockwise) is unlocking so you can adjust .

    Messy, so I didn't post yesterday with sights not adjusting properly: I learned to aim higher (I hate that) to compensate some.
    I wrote down when I tried to adjust sights, but it really wasn't staying in place.
    tLbY2Jm.jpg
     

    gmcttr

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    May 22, 2013
    8,593
    149
    Columbus
    The "torx screws" have nothing to do with adjustments and should not interfere with adjustments. They are to lock the sight base in the dovetail slot. The sight base does not move with adjustments. They should be snugged all the way down.

    There will not be any "locking screws" for the windage and elevation.

    If the Elevation screw on the side of the notched rear piece is non-responsive it is possible that it is damaged (striped screw threads) and will have to have a new sight installed. Does this screw just turn and turn without moving the rear of the sight as noted by the witness marks or does it only have a very limited amount of movement?
     
    Last edited:

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis

    The "torx screws" have nothing to do with adjustments and should not interfere with adjustments. They are to lock the sight base in the dovetail slot. They should be snugged all the way down.

    There will not be any "locking screws" for the windage and elevation.

    If the Elevation screw on the side of the notched rear piece is non-responsive it is possible that it is damaged (striped screw threads) and will have to have a new sight installed. Does this screw just turn and turn without moving the rear of the sight as noted by the witness marks or does it only have a very limited amount of movement?


    Thanks gmcttr! I so appreciate you taking the time to address this. :thumbsup:
    I am certainly smarter than when I started the day. :)
    I suspected that the windage screw on the right side not causing the windage to be responsive (like my Beretta Neos) would demand attention.

    On the Beretta, I thought I took the screw out and replaced a missing spring.
    But, I remember now that might have been for a different gun.
    On the Beretta, I think it was weak threads on the small windage screw.
    I put some plumbers thread on it to grab a little which gave me just enough friction to line it up until I could get a new little screw.

    With me playing with the Sig 226, there has been enough movement only from slight left of center to center, but won't move anywhere at all now.
    Should I take the screw all the way out & try my plumbers tape again?
    & try to order a new screw?
    It might be all I need since it was shooting only slightly left.
    I'll find out next range visit.

    Since the elevation did move up after I sprayed it with penetrating oil & turned it, I'm hopeful that the elevation is fine now.

    You mentioned I would have to replace the entire rear sight to fix the windage.
    If they are using these types of sights on other Sigs, maybe I can get a screw?
     

    gmcttr

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    May 22, 2013
    8,593
    149
    Columbus
    Without having it in my hands I don't know if the screw is removable or not. If you can see that it comes out, you might have a look at it.

    A call to Sig customer service might also be enlightening. I have no idea what their CS is like.
     

    jinks

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Aug 5, 2013
    661
    28
    Central
    I have two 22lr conversion kits and the rear sights look the same as your picture. The adjustment screws function when turned.
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    I have two 22lr conversion kits and the rear sights look the same as your picture. The adjustment screws function when turned.


    Interesting. I wonder if the sights on the Classic 22 & the 22 Conversion Kit are the same.
    I guess it would be the weight that would ultimately decide if mine is a SIG P226 Classic 22LR, which would be 23.7 oz instead of the 34 oz with the Sig 226 9mm (that takes the 22 Conversion Kit).Item Number 226BR-22BAS (Beavertail)
    Caliber .22 LR
    Weight w/out Mag 23.7 oz

    I knew that gmcttr was spot on about the rear sight: bummer.
    Thanks for the info!
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    Without having it in my hands I don't know if the screw is removable or not. If you can see that it comes out, you might have a look at it.

    A call to Sig customer service might also be enlightening. I have no idea what their CS is like.


    That's the joy of retirement: I don't have to be in a hurry!
    I like the gun, & I want to keep it, so I'll make it work.

    I have even tried to look up those rear sights to see what they cost, but haven't found them yet.
    I'll give Sig a call Monday before I start taking screws out, ha!
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    UyFbq8K.png


    Never did see the price on the sight?

    TPU42SG18
    The single adjustable rear sight which easily fits the most popular semiauto pistols without replacement of the factory front sight.
    By replacing the factory rear sight with a tpu, adjustable in windage and elevation with hardened click screws, you will convert your semi-auto into a modern firearm ready for target and practical shooting.


    Features:
    Works with the factory front sight.
    Fits the existing dovetail slot without milling work.
    Machined from solid steel using state-of-the-art CNC milling.
    Tapered dovetail for a better locking in the slide (install from left to right).
    Allen wrench and adjustment screwdriver included in the package.

    TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
    CATEGORIES Sight
    MODELS
    Sig Sauer P226 LDC


    BRAND
    Sig Sauer

    TYPE
    18 - white outline

    OPTIC FIBER
    No
     
    Last edited:

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis


    Thanks!
    It wasn't on the other site, strangely enough & I never thought to simply plug in a vender.
    I'll call Sig Monday & see what they say.
    I haven't seen a schematic on it to know if they can simply ship another screw or whether it could be the threads on the screw, or both.
    In a perfect world, Sig would send me another rear sight.
    If not, I"ll try my temporary fix of plumbers tape, & order a fresh sight when/if I figure how to get this one off.
    I have a couple of friends who are good smthers & they probably know.
    Thanks again for the tip! :thumbsup:
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,613
    77
    Indianapolis
    Called Sig Customer Service this Tues. am.
    I am sending the 226 Classic 22 to them for the repair of rear sight.
    I will be paying a $15 shipping charge & there will be a charge for replacing the windage screw or if it needs it: the entire rear sight.
    They said it is not under warranty due to its 2012 manufacture date.
    Keep you posted on charges.
    So far this was mentioned:
    - $15 shipping label
    - $40 windage screw
    or
    - $90-$100 replace entire rear sight
     
    Last edited:

    WebSnyper

    Maximum Effort
    Rating - 100%
    56   0   0
    Jul 3, 2010
    15,417
    113
    127.0.0.1
    Called Sig Customer Service this Tues. am.
    I am sending the 226 Classic 22 to them for the repair of rear sight.
    I will be paying a $15 shipping charge & there will be a charge for replacing the windage screw or if it needs it: the entire rear sight.
    They said it is not under warranty due to its 2012 manufacture date.

    Interested to hear how this goes and how long it takes as I recently have acquired a few Sig pistols.
     
    Top Bottom