AR 15 cleaning question

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  • indyblue

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    AR 15 cleaning question, why not to lube trigger group

    I read this article at GunsandAmmo.com about cleaning the AR and came across the following passage, but it doesn't explain why to avoid lubing the trigger area. I see many on INGO use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean heavy deposits, how do you avoid getting cleaner on your plastic grip/stock as it partially dissolves plastic vs Hoppes which doesn't seem to attack polymer parts.
    7. Inspection and Lubrication

    With the rifle clean, now is an ideal opportunity to inspect the rifle and its components for worn, cracked or broken parts. Some parts on the AR wear faster than others, and it’s important to keep track of wear so that parts can be replaced before they break. Pay particular attention to the bolt. Look for hairline cracks where the cam pin enters the body of the bolt, as that is usually where breakage occurs. The locking lugs should also be inspected for cracks or other imperfections. While you are inspecting the bolt, ensure the three gas rings are not aligned—their slots should all be in different locations to ensure a tight gas seal. Take a look at the bolt carrier and ensure the gas key fits tightly and that the screws are staked into place so they cannot rotate. Any parts that are suspect should be taken to an armorer or gunsmith, or should be replaced.

    With the rifle clean and inspected, it needs to be lubed before reassembly. Semi-auto rifles require more lubrication than most other firearms, so don’t skimp on the lube. I use lithium grease because it doesn’t migrate when hot, but any gun oil will work. Your rifle will tell you where to apply lube since those areas will have their finish worn from friction. The outside of the bolt body, bolt locking lugs and the four longitudinal ridges on the bolt carrier are key lubrication points on the AR. Conversely, I avoid using lube in the firing pin channel or on the trigger parts.


    I like to keep my trigger well lubed as it runs smoother. The Colt trigger seems to take too much effort otherwise. In a dirty/sandy/dusty environment I could see why you'd want to keep the internals as dry as possible to avoid attracting grit.
     
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    Leo

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    The firing pin channel will collect up soot and dust if the firing pin is oily. If it gets too gummy you can either have light primer strikes or a slam fire. I use Hornady one shot gun cleaner and dry lube as a low residue cleaner, that does not seem to gum up. I only clean my rifle after 3 or 4 matches. The firing pin is still floating in the BCG when I do clean the rifle. Each match takes 88 rounds so 264 to 356 rounds there is no problems. It may be good for longer, but I seldom wait that long to at least clean the BCG.

    I only spray out the trigger with One Shot gun cleaner and dry lube and the smallest dab of gunslik on the sear surface that I possibly can get there with a tooth pick. That has been enough to work for me since the late 70's.


    I also index the gas rings to make sure the slots line up, it seems to make sense. I have actually tried shooting an standard A-2 configuration AR-15 with all the gas rings lined up so that it would supposedly lose pressure. Guess what? Every ammo I tried in it shot fine, from the plain jane Remington 55 gr to my light 100 yard target loads to my Max 77 grain loads. The rifle just plain did not care.


    I don't know much about parts showing wear. I wore out three Krieger SS match barrels on one of my AR's. My definition of a worn out barrel is when it will not print a 20 shot group in the 1 MOA range. That is in the neighborhood of 12-15,000 rounds I never saw wear on anything, never even changed a spring.
     
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    indyblue

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    I clean (barrel & BCG) after every other shoot and lube before every shoot. I only do a total breakdown/clean after ~1K rounds.

    I have been using Lucas Synthetic Gun oil for over 10 years now and it doesn't gum at all. I have no trouble with the firing pin as this a very easy part to keep clean. But the lower receiver is a pain to clean esp. if your have to stay away from the trigger group.

    I still wonder why the G&A article says not to lube the trigger group. Anyone?? If the "experts" at G&A say this someone must know.
     
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    sloughfoot

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    Because it is a single stage trigger. The rough trigger gives some protection against inadvertant discharge. If you lube it and smooth it out, you won't have any tactile response to finger pressure.

    I absolutely detest single stage triggers. I demand a two stage on all of my serious rifles. Both match and SD rifles.
     

    N_K_1984

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    People tend to over think cleaning. The AR15 is a lot more resilient than many think. As far as the FCG, directly apply a few drops of oil to each coil of the trigger & hammer springs. Then just run through a dry, function check. In most cases, that's enough to get the grit freed up, and the oil to penetrate the springs. Beyond that, nothing more is needed. Again, my $.02
     

    Leo

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    I absolutely detest single stage triggers. I demand a two stage on all of my serious rifles. Both match and SD rifles.

    I loved the Jewell two stage triggers but it is impossible to find one, and the RRA two stage was ok. The Bushmaster two stage match trigger that came in the DCM rifle has gotten a little flaky, so I have swallowed hard and coughed up the price of the top of the line Geissle. I haven't opened it yet hoping to find a Jewell. When I got out of the matches 10 years ago, the Jewell triggers were very common. I don't know where they all went. If anyone has one laying around, let me know.
     

    sloughfoot

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    I have one for a large pin Colt. It has very long lock time compared to the RRA two stage with a Wolff extra power hammer spring.

    You can actually detect the difference when dry firing.
     

    rvb

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    you're supposed to clean them?

    I keep the bcg wet w/ lube. If I'm feeling energetic, I'll spin a chamber brush in it. I actually clean em every 2-5k rounds. I've never seen a thin film of lube applied to the FP hurt anything, and I believe that's what's called for in the TMs. I never actually go out of my way to lube the FP, but I know when I put a couple drops on the cam pin some is going to get on the FP.

    Occassionally I'll add a dab of grease+oil to the sear and disco hook on the fcg, along w/ a bit of oil on the pins. I see no reason not to do this. I disagree this makes it unsafe or removes any "tactile response." If the few oz (at most) of trigger pull saved from having the fcg lubed makes it less safe, then the shooter was un-safe to begin with... Trigger pull weight will reduce much more significantly by changing springs, putting in an aftermarket fcg, etc but most don't say that's un-safe....:twocents:

    A gun I recently built intended for getting into 3-gun is holding cheap/bulk 55s I loaded at 1.25 moa, and I haven't touched the bore since I built it (~1500-2000 rounds).

    mobile 1 synthetic motor oil/grease.

    -rvb
     

    45fan

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    Ive used brake cleaner on more than a few occasions on my M-16, other than making the plastic hazy, it did nothing to damage it that I noticed. A follow up with a light coat of CLP, buffed out returned everything to its normal color. As far as lining up the gas rings, its not a bad idea, the manual tells you to do it, but I have seen ARs with the gas rings removed that still cycled completely. I avoid this by just installing a 1 piece ring, and forget the gaps.

    Lube points that I worry about are the BCG slide rails, just a very light coat of grease, and that is about it. Everything else gets the wipe down with CLP, and buffed dry. I know back in the day, our range coaches carried a quart sized bottle of CLP, and literally flooded the BCG before we started the days shooting. The only problem with that was the face full of oil that you were sure to get through that first mag, lol.
     

    Sigblitz

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    Vigilant

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    Read about “Filthy 14”. I’m not saying never clean the AR, but most are over cleaning. The Armed Services have always over cleaned, sometimes to the point of failure of weapon systems. Keep it lubed, clean it every 1k or so, and a quality AR will keep on keeping on.
     

    JollyMon

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    Read about “Filthy 14”. I’m not saying never clean the AR, but most are over cleaning. The Armed Services have always over cleaned, sometimes to the point of failure of weapon systems. Keep it lubed, clean it every 1k or so, and a quality AR will keep on keeping on.

    This. I will wipe it down every Now as then, but until I start noticing things I just keep trucking. If I have to pull my bolt out for any reason, I do a quick wipe down. Shooting suppressed you get it dirty quick.
     

    Denny347

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    I clean my patrol rifle (Bushmaster) after every 8hr rifle inservice. I would have fired 400 rds or so that day. I've owned my Bushmaster for 14 years and has been my patrol rifle the entire time. I likely have close to 10k rounds through it and I have never placed a drop of oil in my lower. At most, I do a cursory wipe down of the internals with my Hoppes #9. I finally had to replace my factory gas rings this year. If it was just a plinker, I'd not clean it so often. But cleaning after every range inservice gives me a chance to inspect all parts for wear and/or damage...how I found the gas rings were getting worn. Sitting in my trunk, the oil on the bolt tends to migrate and needs freshened up frequently. Keep the bolt/bolt carrier and charging handle wet. The rest of the rifle dry. I keep Eezox on all exterior steel parts to avoid rust as water can tend to find it's way into my truck and Eezox it wonderful at repelling it. These rifles are so robust.
     

    Brad69

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    I have been exposed to the AR platform since I was 17 (1986) I was issued everything from beat up A1’s to brand new M4’s. I have witnessed about every malfunction/failure possible and many user errors that defy logic.
    This what I have gathered over the years.

    1. BCG
    Needs to be “wet” not soaked but you should be able to see lube on the bolt. The bolt cam pin needs lubed grease or oil don’t ask my why I just know when you get one acting funky many times it will be lack of lube on the bolt cam pin.

    2. Chamber
    A dirty chamber will cause many function issues whenever you clean your AR scrub the chamber with a brush.

    3. Cleaning
    I have spent many hours cleaning to “White Glove” standards I don’t think that’s necessary unless you are standing inspection. I think Denny has a good plan for a duty weapon that is mostly in a rack. One that’s carried daily requires a wipe-down and inspection daily. I typically clean mine after a class before they go into the safe so every thousand rounds or so.

    BTW
    It seems the Lucas extreme duty oil and grease seems to be great stuff IMO really sticks to the bolt even after a long day at the range.
     

    Ballstater98

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    BTW
    It seems the Lucas extreme duty oil and grease seems to be great stuff IMO really sticks to the bolt even after a long day at the range.

    Except in cold weather it tends to gum up. I've used it in pistol and carbine classes that were below freezing where the oil gummed up both times and slowed the actions causing malfunctions. Now, in warm weather I never had an issue.
     

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