Buy once, cry once or?

[hoosierglock40]

Hey guys,

I have been looking into getting into long range shooting for awhile now and have a few questions about it. To start, the longest shooting I have ever done is about 200 yards(all my property allows) with a rifle. Eventually, I want to be able to shoot 1000 yards, but I know that will take a lot of time, work, and money to do. I am a college student, not poor, but not wealthy by any means. I am wondering what advice you guys would have on a beginner's rifle setup. Is it something that I should save up a long time for and get a rifle and glass that will go to 1000 yards right at the beginning? Or would my time and money be better spent with a decent rifle and glass that I could be putting range time in with earlier and then upgrade when I need something to go farther? Ideally I would like to get a rem 700 sps .308 24", put a new stock on it, DBM, good glass, and bipod but I know there would be cheaper options to get me at the range sooner. What say you ingo?

Also, are there any long range shooting ranges around the indy area?

 

[stephen87]

I'd say buy once, cry once. Get a platform that you are comfortable with and get as good as you can get with it. That's my plan anyway.

 

[NyleRN]

I'd stick to shooting 600yds and under. If you want to shoot 1000yds, then be ready to pony up serious cash. You'll have probably in the neighborhood of $1500+ just in a barrel and glass to shoot well at that range. Best bet is to jump over to sniper hide forum and read up. Not trying to be discouraging, but realistic for a college kid

 

[sht4brnz]

Your idea with the sps will do what you're after without breaking the bank.
Consider that you'll be able to recoup most of your investment when you decide to either upgrade or step in a different direction.

 

[duffman0286]

I'm about at the 3k mark on my setup 700police, MK4 scope, badger bottom metal w/detachable mag, Manners T5 Adjustable stock with mini chassis (currently waiting for), and fluted the bolt and had a oversize badger knob installed... 3k was my budget i want a decent rifle to enter into some long range matches (always want to do this) I'm a college student myself (4 more weeks and i'm done) just save your pennies and get what you want.

 

[ChristianPatriot]

$2K in the whole setup.

 

[phylodog]

I spent 18 months working a part time job, saving my pennies, selling off guns and gear I didn't need and buying components to put my .308 together. I've never regretted that decision.

 

[OneBadV8]

Have you considered buying a "trainer"? Like a bolt action .22lr, some good glass that tracks well, and stretching it out to 200-300 yds? That would teach you a lot also without breaking the bank. And then when you do get your long range build you'll be a little ahead of the curve.

 

[Tactically Fat]

Have you considered buying a "trainer"? Like a bolt action .22lr, some good glass that tracks well, and stretching it out to 200-300 yds? That would teach you a lot also without breaking the bank. And then when you do get your long range build you'll be a little ahead of the curve.

That's certainly a good route to go.

Get to the point where you can put a 40gr .22 LR pill into any spot that you want, at will, from 200 yards.

Then in a few years when you're (hopefully) graduated and gainfully employed - you can begin building a dream long-range rig. The skills you'll have honed with the .22 will definitely transfer over.

Or you can start doing that with a .22 AND start slowly accumulating pieces for a long-range rifle rig. The Rem 700 platform is fantastic - as you know. Some of the Savage platforms are also outstanding machines AND can certainly be worth more than they cost.

Take it slow. Spend some time deciding if you really want .308 Win or perhaps a more dedicated long-range chambering - something in 6-7mm range (6.5x284 is a really cool cartridge!)

If it were me, though, I'd look into .308 as well. Perhaps even .270... Something I could find at Walmart should I NEED it.

You'll also want to start planning / saving on a reloading rig. Want to squeeze the most accuracy out of your gun? You'll need to work up a load for it that your rifle really "likes". (But Walmart in a pinch or if you NEED to put dinner on the table)

Take yer time. Everything will still be available later.

 

[Leo]

Have you considered buying a "trainer"? Like a bolt action .22lr, some good glass that tracks well, and stretching it out to 200-300 yds? That would teach you a lot also without breaking the bank. And then when you do get your long range build you'll be a little ahead of the curve.

+1 200 yards in the wind with a .22 will work your wind reading skills just like 1000 yards with a Palma rifle.

.308 is really pretty marginal at 1000, bullets dropping below supersonic and all. You will do yourself a favor to get all the barrel length you can, at that ragged edge, an extra 50 fps of velocity makes a big difference.

At 1000 you have an issue with sighting systems. Remember, you need to compensate for 326 inches of bullet drop. THe elevation adjustment that will take you from 100 yards to middle range, 600 yards, will generally not get you to 1000. Shimmed mounts or tapered mounts are pretty common. I shot iron sights at 1000, so I was able to get different height riser brackets for my rear peep sight.

 

[Zoub]

Back in 83 when I was in college I went with a nice 22-250 (great deal on it) and hand loaded my ammo, put decent glass on it. Buy a gun you can shoot tomorrow, and keep shooting. If you can afford a better gun now, buy it. If you have a good gun to train on, then yes start saving up for a better gun. If you don't have a gun to shoot now that you enjoy, rectify that first. My college years were when I developed my base handgun and rifle skills, already had shotgun. You will have less time, not more, to shoot after you graduate.

Yesterday my 45 YO brother thanked me for the best advice I ever gave him when he was in college. No matter what, buy at least one gun a year. Buy once cry once is a rule we live by so it did not need repeating.

 

[avboiler11]

"Buy once cry once" is a good plan...but you aren't building any marksmanship skills eating ramen saving for a GAP or AI.

I recommend the Savage 11 Trophy Predator Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor...runs about $600 and Savage currently has a $50 rebate.

Comes with a Nikon 3-9x40 scope with a Predator reticle, based on a previous generation ProStaff. It is a fine scope and will get you shooting right away, but isn't ideally suited for extended ranges due to a lack of readily adjustable scope knobs/turrets and a BDC-type reticle. Straight out of the box with mine, I shot 3 5-round 100yd groups with Hornady 140gr Amax Match factory ammo that each had 4 shots inside of 1/2" with a flyer at 3 o'clock that opened things up to about 1"...and that's with the tupperware stock with far-too-low comb and the Nikon optic. Pretty certain those fliers were due to yours truly, not the rifle system.

You can sell the OE Nikon scope for $100 net, and put those funds toward a better optic, rings and scope mount. My rifle currently wears a Vortex HS-T 4-16x44 in Burris XTR 30mm low rings, on a Weaver 20MOA base.

As your funds allow, you can upgrade the factory tupperware stock to something with features and ergonomics you prefer; I put mine in a new Bell & Carlson M40 Medalist and I found it to improve ergos substantially when I was behind the rifle.

Obligatory terrible indoor iPhone photo:

Additionally, 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil than a 308 and match ammo runs roughly $250 per case of 200 rounds, which is basically the same as FGMM 308.

Savages do have lower resale value than a Remington...but by the time you outgrow the rifle's mechanical accuracy capability you'll likely have an income to support whatever you WANT and the experience to know what you NEED.

Just one thought...caveat emptor and all that.

 

[wsenefeld]

If you don't reload, now might be a good time to start. A quality single stage press will sufficiently supply your 1000 yard bolt gun needs.

Whether you're reloading or buying factory ammo, you'll need a round that's staying supersonic at 1000 to keep any kind of accuracy. A 175gr bullet with a muzzle velocity of 2550+ fps can typically achieve this.

 

[DRob]

The guys I know who are shooting 1000 and up are spending large $$$$ on rifles as well as on all their equipment (research March scopes and Seb rests for an idea) but they all say the most important aspect is practice. Practice also happens to be the cheapest aspect. And, by the way, none of them are shooting .308s. Just sayin'.

 

[THE BIG SITT]

Have you considered buying a "trainer"? Like a bolt action .22lr, some good glass that tracks well, and stretching it out to 200-300 yds? That would teach you a lot also without breaking the bank. And then when you do get your long range build you'll be a little ahead of the curve.

What do you recommend for a trainer 22lr? How would a nicer 10/22 fit the bill?

 

[avboiler11]

I have a Ruger American Rimfire Predator 22LR, which replaced a Savage FV-SR in my "trainer" role.

The RAR action isn't quite as smooth as the FV-SR was, but it is a fantastic rifle.

A 10/22 could also serve that role very well, but I personally wanted a bolt action rimfire since my precision guns are bolties.

 

[OneBadV8]

What do you recommend for a trainer 22lr? How would a nicer 10/22 fit the bill?

I was thinking a bolt action just so you get the same consistency, but it all really comes down to reading the wind and adjusting your optics. I think the main thing would be getting a scope that actually tracks true with the adjustments so you can practice dialing windage and elevation.

If it were me, I'd get the Savage with the bigger bolt (Mark II FV-SR or the Mark II TR) so it would feel more like a center fire, but it really wouldn't matter. Reading the wind, doing the math for MOA or MILs, and adjusting your scope would be the practice you want anyway. All those things would transfer to the centerfire rifle down the road when you'd get into that.

It's more about the practicing and trigger time than the gun itself. Stretch it out so you have to read wind, etc. Optics are very important though, definitely want to make sure it tracks (will pass the box test).

 

[sgreen3]

Take it from someone that's been in the boat your in. If it means having to wait a bit longer to get better equipment do it! Just wait a bit longer and save for the better piece of glass or whatever it may be. Not to say you cant get quality for reasonable money but just do your homework and then make a choice.

 

[hoosierglock40]

Thank you for all the replies! You guys had some good suggestions that I hadn't even thought about. I do have a .22 Mag rifle that I use at home to shoot groundhogs with that I hadn't considered using for practice. It is set up with some cheaper glass but it puts a ragged hole on a target at 100yds. I also have a 16'' AR in .223 (no glass on it) that I could use in the meantime while saving for a nice long range rig. If it were up to you guys, would you practice with the .22 mag or would it be worth putting a scope on the AR instead? I guess I would think the .22 would be more consistent but I haven't shot my AR past about 75yds yet.

Also, where do you guys go to shoot in the central indiana area? I can shoot out to 100yds when I go back to my parent's house but that is 3 hours away and I'd like to move out farther than that.

 

[dtkw]

My remmy 700 BDL 30-06 could kill an elk at 600 plus yards. Never try it at 1000 yards. But I know the bullet can travel that far.