Quiet down an AR?

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  • Cameramonkey

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    Without rehashing the details entirely, but I have seen a gizmo that slips over a flash hider to direct gas and sounds downrange to make it a perceived quieter shooting gun. An overpriced buy for me at least because it is designed to only fit one style of that manufacturer's brake, so I'd need to spend $90 just to get to the point I could use the gizmo so probably close to $200 delivered. Nope. Not worth it.

    Would removing the flash hider and installing a thread protector achieve the same goal? After all there would be no more gasses directed to the sides, so it seems like a solid idea. And this particular rifle is a range toy, so its not like I NEED a flash hider. :dunno: Its a standard birdcage so its not achieving any mechanical goal like preventing muzzle rise or reducing recoil.


    Worth the $20 or not really?
     

    Bfish

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    I think people underestimate the A2 and it would be better than just a barrel with a thread protector... You can buy things like a flamming pig or other devises like it that effectively put the sound out in front of you, or the concussion at least. What you are talking about is something like a warden from surefire or pyro from deadair... I think most people that have these also own their cans already and or can't and want to be "cool" but that's what it seems to me...
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Thanks guys. I dont have the patience or the extra cash for a can and was seeing what I could do for a quick $20 accessory. I might be able to find $60 for something like a KVP.
     

    JStang314

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    I have the KVP linear comp on my .40 AR pistol. Really like it and it looks better than the regular flash cans.
     

    DanVoils

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    Without rehashing the details entirely, but I have seen a gizmo that slips over a flash hider to direct gas and sounds downrange to make it a perceived quieter shooting gun. An overpriced buy for me at least because it is designed to only fit one style of that manufacturer's brake, so I'd need to spend $90 just to get to the point I could use the gizmo so probably close to $200 delivered. Nope. Not worth it.

    Would removing the flash hider and installing a thread protector achieve the same goal? After all there would be no more gasses directed to the sides, so it seems like a solid idea. And this particular rifle is a range toy, so its not like I NEED a flash hider. :dunno: Its a standard birdcage so its not achieving any mechanical goal like preventing muzzle rise or reducing recoil.


    Worth the $20 or not really?

    Funny you should post this as I have been field testing one of these "sound divertors" this week. Once I compile all of my info I'll create a web page and post a link. The one I'm testing is 1/2x28 thread pitch universal in stainless and MSRP is about $75.
    Dan
     

    gmcttr

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    ...Would removing the flash hider and installing a thread protector achieve the same goal?...

    Simply remove the flash hider and fire away to satisfy your curiosity, however, I definitely do not believe that my non-threaded 20" service rifle barrel is quieter than my 20" A2 with the flash hider.
     

    Tomahawkman

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    I have the Warden over my surefire dual port brake. It definitely works, no doubt about it.

    The attachment is great since it uses their socom series QD system that is the same as their supressors.

    It was definitely pricey though.. 134.00 for the brake and 159.00 for the warden. That's dang near 300.00 total with shipping. I think the Brake was definitely worth it, while I don't think I really needed to buy the warden I am happy with my purchase. But maybe that just because I've already bit the bullet and have it and recovered from the expense.

    that being said I think Troy offers the claymore Ive heard that does a good job at taming the sound, your're looking at 65.00 for that.
     

    mammynun

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    Without rehashing the details entirely, but I have seen a gizmo that slips over a flash hider to direct gas and sounds downrange to make it a perceived quieter shooting gun. An overpriced buy for me at least because it is designed to only fit one style of that manufacturer's brake, so I'd need to spend $90 just to get to the point I could use the gizmo so probably close to $200 delivered. Nope. Not worth it.

    Would removing the flash hider and installing a thread protector achieve the same goal? After all there would be no more gasses directed to the sides, so it seems like a solid idea. And this particular rifle is a range toy, so its not like I NEED a flash hider. :dunno: Its a standard birdcage so its not achieving any mechanical goal like preventing muzzle rise or reducing recoil.


    Worth the $20 or not really?


    A given round out of a given barrel length is going to produce a given sound pressure level (SPL). Any device that's not a suppressor is simply (re)directing the SPL in a different direction(s). If you're in a "normal" sized room, they'll all be loud.

    A linear comp/Pig would "help" if you're shooting outdoors under a roof if your baseline muzzle device vents sound/gas upwards and/or to the sides... but with an increase in perceived recoil. A bare muzzle would, IMO, be the worst scenario in all situations unless you like fireballs, and there's definitely something to be said for fireballs!

    My question is what are you attempting to accomplish? The sound and pressure will always be there, and they'll be looking for things to bounce off of, be it the inside of a muzzle device, a metal roof, or the interior walls of a room. You can go deep down the rabbit hole of fluid dynamics, the inverse square law (which you may already be familiar with for lighting - works the same way for sound), and acoustic reflections (think "bounce cards" for lighting), or you can accept that the sound and pressure will always be there and buy a muzzle device/soft box/fresnel that will best suit your needs. ;-)
     

    Cameramonkey

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    A given round out of a given barrel length is going to produce a given sound pressure level (SPL). Any device that's not a suppressor is simply (re)directing the SPL in a different direction(s). If you're in a "normal" sized room, they'll all be loud.

    A linear comp/Pig would "help" if you're shooting outdoors under a roof if your baseline muzzle device vents sound/gas upwards and/or to the sides... but with an increase in perceived recoil. A bare muzzle would, IMO, be the worst scenario in all situations unless you like fireballs, and there's definitely something to be said for fireballs!

    My question is what are you attempting to accomplish? The sound and pressure will always be there, and they'll be looking for things to bounce off of, be it the inside of a muzzle device, a metal roof, or the interior walls of a room. You can go deep down the rabbit hole of fluid dynamics, the inverse square law (which you may already be familiar with for lighting - works the same way for sound), and acoustic reflections (think "bounce cards" for lighting), or you can accept that the sound and pressure will always be there and buy a muzzle device/soft box/fresnel that will best suit your needs. ;-)

    The verbiage of the description of the warden is what got me thinking. It mentioned PERCEIVED noise reduction. No, its not a suppressor, and its not actually quieter, but it causes less noise behind it where people are. Its just as loud/louder down range, but there is nobody there to hear it.

    So the logic was if the perceived noise was due to the gasses being directed to the sides in the birdcage, removing that diversion could possibly achieve the same basic goal. If I could do it for $20 great. But it sounds like its a no go so I wont worry about it. Especially since 90% of my AR shooting is outdoor.

    While I'd love a suppressor, I just cant justify the cost right now.
     

    mammynun

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    The verbiage of the description of the warden is what got me thinking. It mentioned PERCEIVED noise reduction. No, its not a suppressor, and its not actually quieter, but it causes less noise behind it where people are. Its just as loud/louder down range, but there is nobody there to hear it.

    So the logic was if the perceived noise was due to the gasses being directed to the sides in the birdcage, removing that diversion could possibly achieve the same basic goal. If I could do it for $20 great. But it sounds like its a no go so I wont worry about it. Especially since 90% of my AR shooting is outdoor.

    While I'd love a suppressor, I just cant justify the cost right now.

    I have a PIG on my 7.5" AR, and it definitely helps outdoors as long as I'm not under a roof. Here's a cheaper option that's designed (ripped off?) like the Noveske/Krink: KAK INDUSTRY 1/2x28 .223/5.56 FLASH CAN
    ETA: Be aware that it's a 1/4 lbs, and made of aluminum...
     
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    Cameramonkey

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    I have a PIG on my 7.5" AR, and it definitely helps outdoors as long as I'm not under a roof. Here's a cheaper option that's designed (ripped off?) like the Noveske/Krink: KAK INDUSTRY 1/2x28 .223/5.56 FLASH CAN
    ETA: Be aware that it's a 1/4 lbs, and made of aluminum...


    I'll pass. But I've heard those are awesome on AR SBRs/pistols.
     

    DanVoils

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    A given round out of a given barrel length is going to produce a given sound pressure level (SPL). Any device that's not a suppressor is simply (re)directing the SPL in a different direction(s). If you're in a "normal" sized room, they'll all be loud.

    A linear comp/Pig would "help" if you're shooting outdoors under a roof if your baseline muzzle device vents sound/gas upwards and/or to the sides... but with an increase in perceived recoil. A bare muzzle would, IMO, be the worst scenario in all situations unless you like fireballs, and there's definitely something to be said for fireballs!

    My question is what are you attempting to accomplish? The sound and pressure will always be there, and they'll be looking for things to bounce off of, be it the inside of a muzzle device, a metal roof, or the interior walls of a room. You can go deep down the rabbit hole of fluid dynamics, the inverse square law (which you may already be familiar with for lighting - works the same way for sound), and acoustic reflections (think "bounce cards" for lighting), or you can accept that the sound and pressure will always be there and buy a muzzle device/soft box/fresnel that will best suit your needs. ;-)

    Best analogy ion a long time! May I use it in a review of a divorter review I'm currently doing?
    Dan
     

    DanVoils

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    A given round out of a given barrel length is going to produce a given sound pressure level (SPL). Any device that's not a suppressor is simply (re)directing the SPL in a different direction(s). If you're in a "normal" sized room, they'll all be loud.

    A linear comp/Pig would "help" if you're shooting outdoors under a roof if your baseline muzzle device vents sound/gas upwards and/or to the sides... but with an increase in perceived recoil. A bare muzzle would, IMO, be the worst scenario in all situations unless you like fireballs, and there's definitely something to be said for fireballs!

    My question is what are you attempting to accomplish? The sound and pressure will always be there, and they'll be looking for things to bounce off of, be it the inside of a muzzle device, a metal roof, or the interior walls of a room. You can go deep down the rabbit hole of fluid dynamics, the inverse square law (which you may already be familiar with for lighting - works the same way for sound), and acoustic reflections (think "bounce cards" for lighting), or you can accept that the sound and pressure will always be there and buy a muzzle device/soft box/fresnel that will best suit your needs. ;-)

    Certainly!
    Thank you. I'll post a direct link to your post. I used pictures and videos to show the differences between just the brake, a proprietary cover to the brake and a new product coming onto the market.
    Dan
     

    Old Dog

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    Cameramonkey, you want cheap? Soup can, drill out, fasten in an adapter that will fit threads of rifle (1/2x28) screw onto barrel. You now have a real "can" that will redirect flames, smoke and sound downrange. Paint it black to look kool and you will be the envy of everyone on the range. Costs about 5 bucks- 1 for soup, 3 for paint, 2 for some threaded materials and you are good to go!
     

    mammynun

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    Cameramonkey, you want cheap? Soup can, drill out, fasten in an adapter that will fit threads of rifle (1/2x28) screw onto barrel. You now have a real "can" that will redirect flames, smoke and sound downrange. Paint it black to look kool and you will be the envy of everyone on the range. Costs about 5 bucks- 1 for soup, 3 for paint, 2 for some threaded materials and you are good to go!

    I see visions of shrapnel...
     
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