M1 Garand stock woodwork

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  • thephasdin4

    Plinker
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    Dec 31, 2017
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    Terre Haute
    I'm trying to replace the rear piece of the upper hand guard of my M1, but the piece I got through the mail was slightly mismatched in the finish due to the coating being slightly worn. The rest of the stock seem to have this shiny gloss to it over a dark colored wood stock. Has anyone ever deal with M1 stocks that are slightly shiny? If so, what might be the finish/coating that was used back in the days on these stocks?
     

    LarryC

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    Jun 18, 2012
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    As IJ stated, it appears the previous owner either shellacked or varnished the stock. The original finish was normally BLO (boiled linseed oil). In fact almost all military arms of the world used BLO. You might try to remove the finish with denatured alcohol. If it is shellac, the alcohol will remove it. If it doesn't have any effect the finish is most likely varnish or Lacquer. I have two M1's, one I purchased from CMP with a new replacement stock, the other has a fairly scarred up original finish - both BLO. (PURE) Tung oil can also be used - it does give slightly more protection and doesn't darken as much as BLO - some military finishes were Tung oil - DO NOT use a tung oil finish if you go that way as most labeled that way are not true tung oil and may not even contain any real tung oil. The information on this site will give you more to go on.
     

    Winamac

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    Sep 11, 2011
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    Just as a FYI. You mention "slightly mismatched in the finish". This finish contrast was common/normal for M-1's during their days in the military. Granted it is not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but can be correct. Just my :twocents:
     

    indyjohn

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    Dec 26, 2010
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    Just as a FYI. You mention "slightly mismatched in the finish". This finish contrast was common/normal for M-1's during their days in the military. Granted it is not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but can be correct. Just my :twocents:

    True. Armorers cared less for aesthetics, more for function.
     

    tenring

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    Oct 16, 2008
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    Try some TSP [Tri Sodium Phosphate] to get years of linseed oil and grime off an original Garand stock. Goop has been used by some for same purpose. You might be surprised to find out that there is some beautiful wood in the old war horse. Mix up the TSP in hot water [5 gal. bucket] and proceed to scrub it down with Scotch Bright pads, rinse with hot water, wipe dry with clean rag, run over with a hair dryer. Same for the hand guard, then sand down all the burs that popped up.

    Keep at it until there is nothing but bare wood, but watch out for the cartouche. To get both pieces of wood the same color, I use Chestnut Ridge Dark Walnut stain, with a hint of red. Go slow to get a light, medium, or dark as you want color that matches. But be slow in this process.

    Then use some 100% Pure Tung Oil, what the 'guvmint used before they couldn't get enough and went to linseed oil. I've done several by using a small cup to dip one of my fingers in and start rubbing it in. Takes a while this way but rub it in on that dry wood. Some will slop it on, rub it in, and then wipe off excess. Up to you.

    When done, hang the wood up for it will take several days to penetrate and dry. Now start rubbing it in in stages, until all the pores are filled, and stop when you've got the look you want. Now is a good time as it's too nasty outside and the hunting seasons are all but gone.

    In the end, it will look like a brand new stock, even though it could be over 60 years old.
     

    Sgt7330

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    Jan 25, 2011
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    Good luck. It can be terribly frustrating trying to match handguard to stock. If it works, awesome. If not, be on the lookout for whole stock set or a handguards that matches.
     

    Cerberus

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    Sep 27, 2011
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    Get some purple power degreaser from Walmart or auto parts store. Spray down the stock, let sit about 20 minutes and rinse off. I've never had to repeat the process, but you can if needed. Strips all the old gunk off down to bare wood, and does not harm stock stamps. Let dry in a cool area for about 2-3 days then apply 100% pure tung oil in a heavy coat, let sit for about an hour then wipe off all excess. Let dry over night, then repeat with however many hand rubbed coats you desire.
     

    thephasdin4

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    Dec 31, 2017
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    Get some purple power degreaser from Walmart or auto parts store. Spray down the stock, let sit about 20 minutes and rinse off. I've never had to repeat the process, but you can if needed. Strips all the old gunk off down to bare wood, and does not harm stock stamps. Let dry in a cool area for about 2-3 days then apply 100% pure tung oil in a heavy coat, let sit for about an hour then wipe off all excess. Let dry over night, then repeat with however many hand rubbed coats you desire.

    I actually might try. Seems simple enough for me a woodwork beginner.
     

    HEADKNOCKER

    Marksman
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    Dec 5, 2017
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    Clarksville
    Just a side note or Warning.. Any rag that has had boiled linseed oil or tung oil applied to it can spontaneously combust and should be thrown out side away from the house or put in a bucket of water.. It can happen.. Google it if you think I'm full of it..

    If the one piece has a sheen & the rest doesn't you might try some 0000 steel wool on it or both parts if you refinish the whole stock..
    I like boiled linseed oil & coat the fingerboards of rosewood & ebony guitars with it sparingly, Tung Oil works just as well..

    I like the idea of the purple cleaner or simple green to wash away the filth..

    Acetone or mineral spirits with steel wool may also work well but may strip it totally, It really depends on what was used to finish the stock with..

    Never refinished a M-1
     

    ol' poke

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    Jan 14, 2010
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    Whatever happened to using Oven Cleaner to strip the stocks? Too hard on the wood? I used oven cleaner to strip my CMP IH, and followed up with several coats of BLO.

    Good Luck! (and post pics when you've got her ready)
     

    Cerberus

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    Sep 27, 2011
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    Floyd County
    Whatever happened to using Oven Cleaner to strip the stocks? Too hard on the wood? I used oven cleaner to strip my CMP IH, and followed up with several coats of BLO.

    Good Luck! (and post pics when you've got her ready)

    Pretty much what the wood experts say. Never saw any harm with the M1 stock I did that way back in 1993, unfortunately the M1 had to be sold off many years ago and I still miss it. Purple power doesn't seem to be as caustic or quite as smelly and does just as good, so might as well use it instead. And as a FYI, the arsenals that made these old war horses preferred Tung Oil when it could be had, but supplies often weren't to be had since Tung oil comes from Asia. Tung oil dries faster too.
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    Aug 18, 2011
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    I found out (quite by accident) that non-chlorinated brake cleaner does a pretty good job of stripping off old finishes, at least the finish on Mosin Nagants. :n00b:
     
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