Got a problem...223 case stuck in chamber.

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  • jfed85

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    Went to the range tonight, AR jammed. Tried to clear it to straighten out the problem. Turns out the case wouldn’t come out. When I got home I tried locking the bolt back and bumping the stock on the floor to get it out. Didn’t work. Tried a cleaning rod down the barrel to push it out...no luck.

    The round is fired cause the primer has has been struck.

    No round In the barrel because the cleaning rod goes all the way to where it should, but lost of force won’t push it out.

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

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    EvilElmo

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    Maybe a wood dowel (to prevent scratching the barrel) and tap it with a mallet? That's how I've dealt with squibs but it might work for this.
     

    rosejm

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    Might also try some penetrating oil on that steel casing. See if a little lubrication helps to loosen things up
     

    Mgderf

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    You could also try letting the bolt go home, then slam the butt on the ground.
    The extractor should pull it out.
     

    jfed85

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    Ok. I appreciate all the advice. First time I’ve encountered such a problem. That said, any idea what caused this? Bad ammo?

    the rifle was functioning fine, then was jamming every few rounds. Then I switched back to my P mags and it was functioning fine. Then this occurred. Only ran about 150 rounds through it.
     

    Mgderf

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    By any chance, were you using lacquered steel cases?
    Sometimes the lacquer can gum up if the chamber gets hot.
     

    jfed85

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    By any chance, were you using lacquered steel cases?
    Sometimes the lacquer can gum up if the chamber gets hot.

    Could have been the case. Honestly I’m not sure the ammo because I’ve had 7 magazines loaded with random ammo for quite a while waiting to get this one out to the range. That may very well have been the case.
     

    worddoer

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    Steel cased rounds don't expand and seal the chamber as well. They allow more carbon build up in the chamber. If your AR has a tighter cbamber, this can cause problems and you might want to avoid steel cased ammo.

    Once that is out, I highly recommend that you clean your chamber really well.

    My AR's run steel cased ammo fine...but they are not long range 1/2 MOA shooters. Some AR's just won't run with it.
     

    Michigan Slim

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    Steel is junk. I have a very accurate Colt. At 300 yards some of the rounds were hitting the dirt 20 yards shy while others hit the target. WAY inconsistant.
     

    churchmouse

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    Steel cased rounds don't expand and seal the chamber as well. They allow more carbon build up in the chamber. If your AR has a tighter cbamber, this can cause problems and you might want to avoid steel cased ammo.

    Once that is out, I highly recommend that you clean your chamber really well.

    My AR's run steel cased ammo fine...but they are not long range 1/2 MOA shooters. Some AR's just won't run with it.
    Never have ran steel in my AR’s just cause......just cause I don’t want to.

    Worddoer nailed if. Use a good brass brush and some solvent. Clean out the chamber and watch it if you are going to run steel.
     

    masterdekoy

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    This got me thinking, the pic in the OP doesn’t look like a chrome lined barrel, is it by chance parkerized? I have shot probably 500 rounds of steel through my LWRC with no issues (melonited barrel). Wonder if barrel finish has an effect on reliability with steel or if it’s more chamber tolerances. Looser chamber equates to better reliability with steel?

    I remember seeing a video where someone suggested lubing the chamber with motor oil if you were shooting steel. Supposedly it will lube the cases so you wouldn’t get stuck cases. Don’t know what effect it would have on accuracy.

    But to to answer the question in the OP, use a brass cleaning rod and a mallet, just tap the case out lightly. Brass isn’t hard enough to damage the steel barrel.
     

    indykid

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    Had that problem myself several times with Tula or Wolf .223 polymer coated ammo. Seems after several rounds the coating would start getting soft eventually resulting in the case gluing itself into the chamber. After a while I would just bring a 20 inch cleaning rod with me to knock the empty case out of the chamber. Some fell out with just the weight of the cleaning rod, some required a good hammer blow to get the shell out.

    I also had the same problem using the polymer coated junk in my Norinco 84S and Romy SAR-3. Never had problems with the lacquer coated stuff, but the polymer was a royal pain.
     

    jfed85

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    Welp, apparently it’s brass cases only from here on out. Thanks again for the advice. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow. I came home from the range and started popping cold ones, and as a rule I don’t fondle my guns when I’m drinking. Hopefully I can get it out of there tomorrow and I’ve learned my lesson about the junk ammo.
     

    halfmileharry

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    Had that problem myself several times with Tula or Wolf .223 polymer coated ammo. Seems after several rounds the coating would start getting soft eventually resulting in the case gluing itself into the chamber. After a while I would just bring a 20 inch cleaning rod with me to knock the empty case out of the chamber. Some fell out with just the weight of the cleaning rod, some required a good hammer blow to get the shell out.

    I also had the same problem using the polymer coated junk in my Norinco 84S and Romy SAR-3. Never had problems with the lacquer coated stuff, but the polymer was a royal pain.
    I've had this same issue when I used the poly coated Tula ammo in my AKs. I only had 2 hang ups with it in thousands of rounds. Both hang ups were like yours. I won't use the poly coated or any steel ever again. I value my weapons over my cheap azz side.
    I used Kroil down the barrel overnight and an aluminum cleaning rod. They came out easy using the Kroil.
    Just because you see a dimpled primer doesn't mean the round went off. CAUTION.
     

    bwframe

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    Hardwood dowel should do it.

    Kroil (or maybe PB Blaster) 10 min before should help to loosen the junk gluing it in.

    Hit the dowel only with synthetic or wood. NO metal hammers.
     
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