Barrel tuning with magnaspeed bayonet

[Goodcat]

So I’ve got the magnetospeed bayonet chronograph. If David Tubb used it, good enough for me.

My original plan....

-Run Tubb Final finish (compounds 3,4,5 only) on Ruger precision 6.5 CM.
-Attatch Magnetospeed bayonet chronograph and develope velocity chart
-find FPS node suitable, and then tune o-give distance while neck bumping with full length seater to group size.

Im seeing David Stubbs 2k yard gun and he leaves his magnetospeed bayo attached. He does this so he can see if a low hit was influenced by velocity, or if it was really needing an adjustment

So for those of you long range shots this OCD... do you tune your velocity nodes with the chronograph on the barrel and leave it on the same spot when precision shooting? Do you tune your loads and find the grouping size (not point of impact) unaffected by bayo on or off? I understand this question may not apply to anyone. Lol

 

[jrh84]

Is your RPR giving you accuracy issues, or is the Final Finish a proactive thing? You might try it out and see how it shoots out of the box if you haven't already yet.

Tubb is the only one I've heard of running the Magnetospeed on the rifle. I read that last year on his King of 2 Miles interview, and thought it was a pretty good idea. However, I'm not sure it's necessary/practical for any shooting you'd do in Indiana/the midwest. He was using it to try and differentiate low velocity from true elevation adjustment at 2000-3500 yards.....10 fps makes a big difference out there. It doesn't at 1000 (not enough that 99.9% of shooters/rifles can differentiate from "noise," anyway). Keep in mind that he was probably running a much heavier profile barrel than your 6.5, which would help minimize the effect of extra weight hanging off the end. I can't say for sure if hanging the bayonet out there will hurt anything accuracy wise, but I can't see it helping, especially on a lighter barrel.

I'm not a long range expert (well, actually....according to my NRA classification I am, but that's not saying much), but from my experience and what I know other competitors to do...find an accurate load (preferably something in the mid-warm range of load data), get a good velocity measurement (10-20 rounds) with said load, and then verify/validate with real data out to the farthest distance you can. A calculator will get you on paper, but I've yet to see one that's spot on (for my rifles anyway). Most calculators have a "truing" feature that you can put your actual dope into to help improve it's accuracy.

Oh, and learn to read the wind. That'll help you get more hits than pretty much anything else.

 

[sht4brnz]

Find your node.
Get your speeds consistent.
Tune your jump.
I only find it necessary to use the chronograph for getting my speeds consistent.
I do not use the chronograph again unless I find things becoming erratic and inconsistent vertically.
My thoughts are to find your formula the way you intend it to be shot. Could a barrel mounted chronograph have an effect on the barrel harmonics and node? I haven't found irrefutable evidence that proves it to be impossible, so I'd say it's possible. Especially when I look at harmonic tuners.
The consistency game is won by removing variables.
I agree with everything jrh84 stated above. Especially the part about learning to read the wind.

When I miss, it's always the ammo's fault

 

[Goodcat]

I appreciate the very informative replies, thank you! Makes a lot of sense and I didn’t even consider the massive distances he was shooting!