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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongo59 View Post
    Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner concentrated gel and medium steel wool. It doesn't take a lot, just a pea sized dob on the steel wool and it will turn the rust into an orange goo that wipes off. Do small areas at a time and it will NOT take off any original blue or even scratch a good spot of original blue. If you want the original blue off as well then use the same product with a Scotchbrite pad and only the clean metal will remain. Their Gun Blue is just as easy to reblue the weapon after you are done cleaning.

    I tried all the cold blues but I keep coming back to this one. Gloves, a heat source, cotton balls, the blue paper shop towels and one of their blue kits is all you need. Enough to do 3-5 whole guns if you aren't wasteful. You can go over what bluing is already there or start from the metal in the white.

    Thanks for the advice.

    Is this the kit you are talking about?

  2. #12

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    That is the Gun Black which will work as well. Some Mosins were on the black side, there is a Gun Blue if you desire a blue instead of black.

  3. #13
    Marksman easy's Avatar

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    Some idiots are too busy knowing it all to ever learn anything

  4. #14

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    I'm guessing the only difference between gun black and blue is the shade?

  5. #15

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    I took Mongo59's advice and orderd the gun black restoration kit. While waiting I thought I'd try some "prep" work and see how it would turn out. There was so much pitting and rust on the bottom that I took a brass wire wheel attached to my drill and knocked as much crud off I could. The pitting was much deeper than anticipated but to my surprise the original bluing stayed. Luckily the worst of the damage is on the bottom side of the rifle which will be covered when the stock is installed. I am by no means a gun smith, so any other help or tips would be much appreciated

    Top side of barrel

  6. #16
    Plinker Herr Vogel's Avatar

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    It's probably too late at this point, but you should look into Rust Bluing -- it's likely how the gun was finished in the first place.
    Instead of trying to remove the rust, detail strip it, remove any and all oil, boil or steam the parts to convert the red oxide (rust) to black oxide (bluing), and then card it. Successive layers of rust blueing can then be applied over the converted surface. This is what would have been done in armory-level maintenance.
    Last edited by Herr Vogel; 1 Week Ago at 20:08.

  7. #17

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    Before begining the rebuling process I thought it would be wise to clean up the stock then put the rifle back together and check for function. The trigger is unbelievable smooth, but as you can see in the photos the stock needs refinishing as well. All I did to it was take Orange Goop hand towels, wipe it down, then scrub it with a sponge. I'm looking to hear what I should do to refinish the stock (teak oil, boiled linseed), or just leave it in the calico (spelling) colored form its in and just seal it.

    BTW I don't think this will ever be a pretty rifle so making it an ugly duckling might work in this case.

  8. #18
    Grandmaster 1775usmarine's Avatar

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    If I remember I started with 320 grit and moved to 1000grit after using an iron and rag soaked in water to steam the stock and raise any indentations. I applied 3 coats of stain and 3 coats of poly. It turned out really nice but like an idiot I traded it for a loss.
    “Son, when the Marine Corps wants you to have a wife, you will be issued one.” -Chesty Puller

  9. #19
    Grandmaster KellyinAvon's Avatar

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    Rusty Mosin Nagant is the thread title, but would also be a cool forum handle. That is all.
    INGOer #25,448

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