JonProphet
Sharpshooter
Doesn't seem to be much activity here for F-Class. This is my first season in F-Class and I felt the desire to post about my experiences. Hopefully anyone wanting to shoot this wonderful sport will be motivated to seek out matches and begin to participate. What is to follow, is from my learned experiences this year and is my opinion. I've participated in roughly 10 matches in 3 months and will likely shoot 3 to 6 more before the season is over. Please feel free to add in your thoughts and experiences.
Some people may not like punching paper. They like shooting steel (including me). I feel both PRS and F-Class cross-pollinate along with High Power. F-Class is a prone sport. From a sling, bi-pod or front rest. At steel shooting competitions, a hit on steel is a point, no matter where it hits. F-Class, not so much. X-Ring and 10 ring are 10 points and it goes down hill from there. I feel F-Class can make ANYONE a better shooter, maybe not so much with other style of shooting competitions. No shooting from swings, one leg up, touching your nose and playing the hokey pokey. One advantage that PRS style matches have over F-Class is that they may require you to shoot from your weak side. You can do that in F-class if you choose but its not required.
F-Class was formed out of Bench Rest but I feel it is a mix of Bench Rest and NRA High Power. F-Class Rules are based on NRA High Power. F-Class in my opinion is not only about pulling the trigger. Its a sport that starts at home on the reloading bench and is finished on the last follow-up after the last trigger pull. I cannot emphasize that last point enough. Indiana is a great place to learn to shoot this sport and we are home to some of the best shooters in the country. We have two wonderful ranges to learn on and experience a wide variety of conditions. Camp Atterbury has 2 or 3 F-Class long range and mid-range events a month. They use electronic targets and you can shoot mid range 300/500/600 and long range at 1,000 yards. There are also team matches where your partner calls your wind. At club level matches coaching is permitted but at a state and national championship, it is not. Club level events, I feel, are more to help people grow and learn.
Membership to the two organizations is not required but you will receive a discount on match fees. Usually a $10 discount. CIHPS membership is $30 and you receive a $10 discount for match fees. Attend 3 matches, pays for itself. Pretty basic stuff. Your membership doesn't allow you to show up at the base and shoot when you feel. Keep that in mind.
Schedule and registration are found online here:
CIHPRS - CIHPRS Home
Southern Indiana Rifle and Pistol club offers 1 match, the first Saturday of the month. The first match of the year is a great match to attend as it is the F-Class clinic. I did not attend this, this year and I wish I did. You will learn a lot and one of the critical skills is wind calling. Speaking with regular attendees at Borden, someone said the nickname for the Borden range is the toilet bowl. Lots of varied wind conditions, switch winds, dead calm, etc. Keep in mind, you do have to cross a creek that is shallow and passable by cars. If its high, people will volunteer to ferry folks across. I've seen Hyundai sub-compact cars cross it and I cross it with my mini-van. At Borden you will be required to pull and score targets. If it is your first time, just tell someone and they will teach you how to pull targets and score. A lot of old time shooters don't like pulling targets but you will get a chance to chat with folks in the pits and learn even more. Just watch out for the conspiracy theorists, they do run rampant! Registration is done the morning of the match but the schedule and more info can be found here:
Southern Indiana Rifle and Pistol Club ? 17906 State Road 60, Borden, Indiana 47106
Folks travel from all over the Tri-state area (KY, IN & OH) to attend matches at both locations. I know the range in Fort Wayne does a lot of high powered stuff but I'm not sure they hold any F-Class matches. The Indiana State Championships are held at Camp Atterbury and the Kentucky State Championships are held at Borden. Keep in mind Camp Atterbury is an active military base. My first match there I spent 30 minutes trying to find the range (there are more than one) touring the base (not wise) because they changed the range we were shooting on that morning. I believe Hi-Power Nationals this year and last year (I believe next year) were held at Camp Atterbury. Pretty cool stuff in my opinion.
Rules and Classifications
F-Class rules can be found in a few places. You do NOT have to be an NRA member to shoot events at either locations. Again, you do not have to be a member of either club to shoot competitions.
Rules:
https://www.arpc.info/docs/fclass_rifle_rules.pdf
If you are not a NRA member, you will get a number assigned after your first results are turned in and you can track your classification by that number or those that are NRA members online. Your classification is valid for 3 years as long as you compete in 1 match, every 3 years. Each match is usually 3 strings (1 day event) of 200 points, 20 shots each. I'm still unclassified according to the site. NRA doesn't seem to want to be quick to update these standings.
You can check your classification by NRA member number or the number automatically assigned:
https://competitor.nra.org/CompetitorClassification.aspx
Classification is as follows:
High Master HM 98.00% and above
Master MA 96.50 to 97.99
Expert EX 94.00 to 96.49
Sharpshooter SS 91.50 to 93.49
Marksman MK Below 91.49
Meaning your total score for three matches has to be a 588 or higher to attain the rank of High Master and 549 to 560 for sharpshooter. When you register for the match, if you aren't classified, you simply put down Unclassified. You can attain different classifications for each discipline, IE, Mid-Range, Long Range and Extended Long Range (I think) which is 1200 yards and longer. Speaking of which, towards the end of the season this year, CIHPS is hosting the longest Day shoot. I don't know for sure, but I believe it is a mile shoot. You have to have the proper round to participate. Magnums are acceptable anything .308 and smaller is not. Yes, I'm aware the 6.5 Creedmore and some of the other small calibers are capable of hitting a mile, but I don't make the rules.
Also know that this is a single fire, slow fire style shooting. No mag loading. You load each shot into the chamber individually. It is at the match directors discretion to allow for mag loading.
Muzzle brakes are a no no. At club level events, you will likely be asked to move to the end of the line. You are very close to others on the firing line and most competitors don't enjoy a muzzle blast to the face.
Speaking of punching paper. F-Class targets are specific to F-Class. They are 1 MOA. So at 1,000 yards, you are shooting a 10 ring (I'm not exactly positive on this point) that is 10" in diameter. I believe the X-Ring is 1/2 MOA. X Rings are used for national records and to break ties. Used for bragging rights too.
Equipment
Here is the meat and taters of the conversation. What equipment do you need, what caliber, can I show up with Grand Dad's Hunting rifle? Short answer, sure! There are two divisions in F-Class, F Target Rifle (FTR) and F-Open. I'll speak about FTR first.
FTR doesn't stand for F Tactical Rifle. Target rifle is limited to just 2 calibers. .223/5.56 and .308. It also has a weight limitation of 18'ish pounds including your bi-pod and scope. You can shoot a bolt gun or from the AR platform. There are a few who do shoot from the AR platform and have a great time. I highly recommend a bolt gun. Good choices are the standards, Remington, Savage and Ruger Precision. I'll not post an opinion on which is better (Remington 700) but bring what you got and have some fun.
Actions/Barrels
For either division, a custom action is always great. Having a blueprinted and trued Savage or Rem 700 is still a great options. Any of the actions from Kelbly, Stiller, Surgeon, Defiance, etc, etc.... etc.... are great to build on. Some have had great success with a Remage setup. You get a great match grade barrel for a great cost and avoid the smithing fees.
As far as barrels, you really can't go wrong on manufacture. Any barrel from any of the top manufactures will do you fine. Length and contour will be a bigger issue than choosing a manufacturer. Also, having the correct free-bore or knowing where the lands are, is key.
With F-TR with the low weight limit, a smaller contour will be needed. If you are going to shoot 1,000 yards, especially with .308 a longer barrel will be required. Most guys are running a 30" barrel. Yes you read that right. Velocity is king. Does that mean you can't be competitive or have fun with a shorter barrel. Nope, I'm running a 24". Am I changing, yes. Remember, you are trying to shoot x-rings. Any advantage you can get helps. I get into more of the length discussion in the reloading area.
For F-Open, 30" straight taper 1.25" is the standard.
Rests and Bi-pods
I believe you have to shoot from a bi-pod and you can use a rear bag or squeeze bag. My second match 1st string, I cleaned my target with a 200.9x using a home made squeeze bag at 300 yards. Most serious competitors are using a rear sand bag (FTR & F-Open). Most use bags from Protektor. You can custom order (doesn't cost anymore) a bag to your liking. Flat Top, slight slope, super slick ears, heavy sand but keep the ears at 2" or under. Also, I'd stay away from ordering one online from Midway. You can actually call them up and order exactly what you want directly from them. Most use a flat top, heavy bag with slick 2" ears with a carry handle. Its pretty much the top of the line.
The best bang for the buck is the Sinclair's International bi-pod with elevations adjustment found here:
https://www.brownells.com/shooting-...-w-quick-adjust-elevation-knob-prod44699.aspx
It comes with the sling stud attatchment and for $40 more you can get the picatinny rail attachment.
Other good choices are the Phoenix Bi-pod but the best option, money isn't an option, is the Seb Joy-Pod (if you can get one):
JOYPOD Bipod | SEB Rests
What I found out is that the joystick style rests allow for very fast elevation and windage adjustments.
Stocks
This area pertains to both F-Open and F-TR.
Lots of options here. Most folks are using adjustable stocks of some make. Kelbly, McMillan, Cerus the list goes on and on. Options that fit any wallet. I would recommend some sort of stock with a bedding block in it and free floating. Bell and Carlson is a great choice for the money. Chassis aren't as frequently used but I use one. I do it out of comfort. I personally use a MPA chassis that is geared more towards PRS but its extremely comfortable and it shoots VERY well for me. Lots of options including a rear weight system that includes and Enhanced Rear Bag Slider.
McMillan is now making their F-Class exclusive stock called the Kestros. They offer options for adjusable cheek and rear but it offers a, just short of, 3" fore-end which is a restriction to the F-Open division. It has to be at or under 3".
Keep in mind there are a few things to understand when shooting that pertain to stocks. Free Recoil and the standard way. Free Recoil is where you have very little of your cheek and shoulder touching the stock and you touch the trigger to fire. Its most commonly done in F-Open.
Optics
Again, this topic serves both F-TR and T-Open. I'll start with Spotting scopes. Budget will dictate what you use. You do NOT have to have one but its nice to have. Most guys will allow you to use their scope on the firing line if pulling targets is required. With Electronic Targets, a spotting scope is left at home unless you are trying to get someone on the target. I have a very budget friendly scope that I really like. Its about $300. Its from Konus. It does have a bit of chromatic aberration but its has a lot of magnification and is very clear. I would recommend the 80x mag version.
https://www.amazon.com/Konus-7120-20x-60x80mm-Spotting-Tripod/dp/B001DX7Q8W
Is a more expensive spotter better, depends. If you are good at reading mirage, then yes. Picking up mirage can be crucial on calling wind.
Rifle Scopes. At this can/is and will be debated until the end of time. Something that can't be debated is, for F-class, 2nd focal plane, MOA 1/8" clicks, and high magnification. Brand? Right now the sweetness is a Vortex Golden Eagle. 1/8" click, SFP, high mag for CHEAP!!!!!! Its clear, great eye relief. It was designed specifically for F-Class.
We shoot Vortex and I'm a big fan but when putting together my gear, I'm VERY budget minded. I shoot a Vortex PST Gen I 6-26 FFP Mil-Dot. I know, I know. "But you said....." Yep, I did. I was under the delusion that 1/10 click Mil equaled .13" at 100 yards. Hey we all make mistakes. Its actually, 1/3" of an inch. That is huge. Don't make the same mistake I did. I'm good at holds. Shooting F-Class with a Mil-Dot scope will turn you in a holding pro in no time.
Nightforce Competition scope is a great choice if you have the money, March scopes, Kahles, Anthlon, Sightron. 1/4" click is fine. But get the highest magnification you can afford. You are shooting at a MOA target. The closer you can see the more and easier it is to place your shot. The downside, you may place your shot on someone else's target. That's a 0.
As far as reticles, some like the floating target dot, fine cross hairs and of course MOA hash. Get what you like.
F-Open Gear
A lot of the FTR gear crosses over to F-Open. Just know that you have a lot more room for equipment here. You can use any caliber you like. 6mm and 6.5mm are great for mid-range. 7mm's are good all around. Shoot what you like. There are no limitations to caliber here. Wildcats, sure. Just be safe.
F-Class is limited to 22'ish lbs. and that does not include a front/rear rest or bipod. Yes, that's right, you can use a front rest. The current hotness is the Seb Neo. Just like the joy pod, it has a joystick for quick fast accurate elevation/Wind adjustments. The problem is, its $1000 - $1300 dollars and has a wait list longer than Tesla.
If you don't want to wait, or pay the 2nd hand market or retail market another great choice to learn on is the Bald Eagle rest.
Triangle Windage Rest - Cast Iron | Grizzly Industrial
Do yourself a favor and order the F-Class feet. Its cheap and effective.
You can also order a 3" or 2" wide sand bag for a rest from Protektor.
Rear bag is the same recommendation from F-TR. The Protektor rear bag.
Range Gear
A range cart or wagon is recommended. If you are on a budget and you had small kids. Steal their Radio Flyer Wagon. If its just you, it will work. Dragging your ammo and gun, bags, rests, etc down the range as you are switching firing lines sucks. Slows you down. Using one to unload your reange gear in one trip is great. If the Radio Flyer isn't an option or you have an ego issue try one from Academy Sports:
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/ac...-1000-dock-utility-cart#repChildCatid=4654505
Cheap, Chinese made and nice tires. Do yourself a favor, use the rear gate not the front if things are to long.
Shooting mat. Two choices, Midway's mat or a long section of remnant carpet. Both work. I'll let you get your own link.
Gun Bag/Case:
Hard cases are fine but a chore to lug around the range. Any will do. These have backpack style straps and a soft case:
http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=CC3258
Chairs, you'll need one unless you want to sit on the ground. Folding camping chairs work or one of these are really nice:
https://www.cabelas.com/product/CABELAS-STANDARD-DIRECTORS-CHAIR/2416323.uts?slotId=5
Cooler. Must have. Bring your lunch and LOTS of water. I can't stress this enough. You will be out in sun all day. Don't be stupid, don't be a hard ass. Bring water.
Sunscreen. Bring it along with Bug Spray. The hover flies are nasty at Borden and Camp Atterbury and those little f*ckers bite.
Canopy - Shooting at Borden its nice to have one of these behind the line. If the winds are calm all day, they will let you set one up on the firing line. Its rare. At Camp Atterbury if you are shooting 1,000 yards, they will let you set it up on the line. Very nice. Makes a very smooth day. I bought one from Dick's. It hurt to do it but they had a good one very cheap. It is on sale sometimes for $59.99.
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...opy-16ccau10x10vsrs2podr/16ccau10x10vsrs2podr
Reloading
I've saved this section for last. I feel this is one of the most important aspects of any shooting sport. More so for Bench Rest and F-Class. You may have a hidden 1/3" rifle and may not even know it if you reloading isn't up to snuff. If you have a factory gun that shoots 3/4" or over 1/2" group that's great, buy a lottery ticket because its rare. Bring it out and have some fun. My opinion, its pretty rare. Keep in mind also, as the barrel really heats up from shooting 20 rounds in 20 minutes, it may change. Unlike bench rest, we don't shoot groups but we shoot X's. There is some margin for error.
I won't get into the specifics of reloading or the practices. Plenty of books and lots of help can be found on this forum. Get a solid routine down. Find what works for you. Some people like to anneal, some don't. Some like to only size the neck, some bump the shoulders on the full size.
Get a solid single stage press. Get high quality dies. I'm using Lee Dies and shooting excellent scores. I am moving to another more expensive die.
A good caliper with the Hornady shoulder gauge and ogive gauge is a must have. Whidden dies come with the should bump gauge.
Powder throw. Believe it or not, I think, most of the guys doing really well have REALLY expensive scale and powder throw setups. Don't believe me? If you aren't faint of heart Look here:
https://www.autotrickler.com/auto-trickler.html
I started to REALLY dial in my performance when I picked up a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Combo. I used a 2 scale setup but having an accurate charge is key. Using the accuracy node method to find the best load is key. But being able to quickly and accurately throw charges is a must. I love reloading but loading more than 150 rounds single stage right now is really getting on my nerves. Getting my powder under control was the single biggest jump in performance to me. It was night and day. Went from Shooting a 540 combined score to a 560'ish with Sierra 175's for mid range.
You do want to pay attention to extreme spreads and standard deviations. If your reloading isn't up to snuff and you drop 100 FPS at 1,000 yards, your bullet is going to be an 8 instead of an X. Been there, done that. Funny as hell when it happens to you. Being able to explain your misses almost eliminates the frustrations. For me, unknowns frustrate me beyond belief. But being able to look at the data and point, ha! Here it is. Is a great feeling.
For bullet selection, you kind of have to follow the crowd. These folks know what wins and what works. Any advantage on that day is key. Right now Berger is making bullets specifically for F-Class. Hybrid bullets, VLD's, etc. For FTR the current sweetness is the 200.20x bullet and the 185 gr Juggernaut. F-Open I can't really say because what we are building is for a 7mm. Sierra's are a great choice but they just aren't cutting the mustard anymore. The downside to Berger's is they are expensive and they can be a PITA to find.
Brass - Lapua, Peterson, Alpha. Nothing else. Hornady is sh*t. There may be one more manufacturer out there. Repeat-ability, reliability, re-usability. That is all. Trim to the smallest length, shoot it. Bump size it, again, that is all.
Chronograph
A Cronograph is key. It is just another tool in the bag. People say to not chase velocities. Well, that is true but read this article:
Long range load development at 100 yards. | Shooters' Forum
I personally recommend using the optimal charge weight to find the best group and then use the method above to find your accuracy nodes. The problem with being told not to chase velocities is that for longer ranges, you have to. Using electronic targets you have to be above supersonic at the target to register. I was pushing Sierra's accurately out of my 24" barrel at 2700 fps. On a cooler humid day, they weren't registering on the e-target. All calculators told me when the temp went up and humidity dropped a little I was super sonic but still not registering. Nothing ruins a day more when you can't compete.
There are magic velocity numbers for bullets beyond 1,000 yards and you have to find what works for you accurately.
Speaking of Chronographs.
Money no option - option: Lab Radar. Its simply the best for F-Class. Its iPad and Android app isn't the greatest. When you arm it with a tablet/phone, the Bluetooth drops. You can arm it with the iPad/iPhone and download all data for analysis. You set it behind the muzzle and you forget it. As long as it is angled properly, which can be tricky. Muzzle brakes are a no no. It will damage it. If someone is shooting with a muzzle brake beside you, don't get it out or ask them to move. For club level events you can put it on the line with you. Nationals and State Championships, nope. Finding your Extreme Spreads and Standard Deviations are as easy as looking on the screen.
A close 2nd is Magnetospeed. Its a great piece. Problem is, you can damage it and it hangs on the barrel. Not to mention, I wouldn't want to use it during competitions. It shows your ES and SD's.
Crony is another good piece but you know the story here. Hard to setup, easy to shoot and damage. The lower end ones don't show ES and SD's. Hard to start new strings.
To sum it up for this section is having the ability to analyze based on the data is the BIGGEST advantage. Making small improvements based on clear analytical data is key to saving money and in my opinion having the most fun. A lot of your fellow competitors will take notice when they see steady improvements to your scores and compliment you and oithers. A lot of these long timers love seeing people sharing their passion and seeing others improve. It really is a great hobby and sport.
Some people may not like punching paper. They like shooting steel (including me). I feel both PRS and F-Class cross-pollinate along with High Power. F-Class is a prone sport. From a sling, bi-pod or front rest. At steel shooting competitions, a hit on steel is a point, no matter where it hits. F-Class, not so much. X-Ring and 10 ring are 10 points and it goes down hill from there. I feel F-Class can make ANYONE a better shooter, maybe not so much with other style of shooting competitions. No shooting from swings, one leg up, touching your nose and playing the hokey pokey. One advantage that PRS style matches have over F-Class is that they may require you to shoot from your weak side. You can do that in F-class if you choose but its not required.
F-Class was formed out of Bench Rest but I feel it is a mix of Bench Rest and NRA High Power. F-Class Rules are based on NRA High Power. F-Class in my opinion is not only about pulling the trigger. Its a sport that starts at home on the reloading bench and is finished on the last follow-up after the last trigger pull. I cannot emphasize that last point enough. Indiana is a great place to learn to shoot this sport and we are home to some of the best shooters in the country. We have two wonderful ranges to learn on and experience a wide variety of conditions. Camp Atterbury has 2 or 3 F-Class long range and mid-range events a month. They use electronic targets and you can shoot mid range 300/500/600 and long range at 1,000 yards. There are also team matches where your partner calls your wind. At club level matches coaching is permitted but at a state and national championship, it is not. Club level events, I feel, are more to help people grow and learn.
Membership to the two organizations is not required but you will receive a discount on match fees. Usually a $10 discount. CIHPS membership is $30 and you receive a $10 discount for match fees. Attend 3 matches, pays for itself. Pretty basic stuff. Your membership doesn't allow you to show up at the base and shoot when you feel. Keep that in mind.
Schedule and registration are found online here:
CIHPRS - CIHPRS Home
Southern Indiana Rifle and Pistol club offers 1 match, the first Saturday of the month. The first match of the year is a great match to attend as it is the F-Class clinic. I did not attend this, this year and I wish I did. You will learn a lot and one of the critical skills is wind calling. Speaking with regular attendees at Borden, someone said the nickname for the Borden range is the toilet bowl. Lots of varied wind conditions, switch winds, dead calm, etc. Keep in mind, you do have to cross a creek that is shallow and passable by cars. If its high, people will volunteer to ferry folks across. I've seen Hyundai sub-compact cars cross it and I cross it with my mini-van. At Borden you will be required to pull and score targets. If it is your first time, just tell someone and they will teach you how to pull targets and score. A lot of old time shooters don't like pulling targets but you will get a chance to chat with folks in the pits and learn even more. Just watch out for the conspiracy theorists, they do run rampant! Registration is done the morning of the match but the schedule and more info can be found here:
Southern Indiana Rifle and Pistol Club ? 17906 State Road 60, Borden, Indiana 47106
Folks travel from all over the Tri-state area (KY, IN & OH) to attend matches at both locations. I know the range in Fort Wayne does a lot of high powered stuff but I'm not sure they hold any F-Class matches. The Indiana State Championships are held at Camp Atterbury and the Kentucky State Championships are held at Borden. Keep in mind Camp Atterbury is an active military base. My first match there I spent 30 minutes trying to find the range (there are more than one) touring the base (not wise) because they changed the range we were shooting on that morning. I believe Hi-Power Nationals this year and last year (I believe next year) were held at Camp Atterbury. Pretty cool stuff in my opinion.
Rules and Classifications
F-Class rules can be found in a few places. You do NOT have to be an NRA member to shoot events at either locations. Again, you do not have to be a member of either club to shoot competitions.
Rules:
https://www.arpc.info/docs/fclass_rifle_rules.pdf
If you are not a NRA member, you will get a number assigned after your first results are turned in and you can track your classification by that number or those that are NRA members online. Your classification is valid for 3 years as long as you compete in 1 match, every 3 years. Each match is usually 3 strings (1 day event) of 200 points, 20 shots each. I'm still unclassified according to the site. NRA doesn't seem to want to be quick to update these standings.
You can check your classification by NRA member number or the number automatically assigned:
https://competitor.nra.org/CompetitorClassification.aspx
Classification is as follows:
High Master HM 98.00% and above
Master MA 96.50 to 97.99
Expert EX 94.00 to 96.49
Sharpshooter SS 91.50 to 93.49
Marksman MK Below 91.49
Meaning your total score for three matches has to be a 588 or higher to attain the rank of High Master and 549 to 560 for sharpshooter. When you register for the match, if you aren't classified, you simply put down Unclassified. You can attain different classifications for each discipline, IE, Mid-Range, Long Range and Extended Long Range (I think) which is 1200 yards and longer. Speaking of which, towards the end of the season this year, CIHPS is hosting the longest Day shoot. I don't know for sure, but I believe it is a mile shoot. You have to have the proper round to participate. Magnums are acceptable anything .308 and smaller is not. Yes, I'm aware the 6.5 Creedmore and some of the other small calibers are capable of hitting a mile, but I don't make the rules.
Also know that this is a single fire, slow fire style shooting. No mag loading. You load each shot into the chamber individually. It is at the match directors discretion to allow for mag loading.
Muzzle brakes are a no no. At club level events, you will likely be asked to move to the end of the line. You are very close to others on the firing line and most competitors don't enjoy a muzzle blast to the face.
Speaking of punching paper. F-Class targets are specific to F-Class. They are 1 MOA. So at 1,000 yards, you are shooting a 10 ring (I'm not exactly positive on this point) that is 10" in diameter. I believe the X-Ring is 1/2 MOA. X Rings are used for national records and to break ties. Used for bragging rights too.
Equipment
Here is the meat and taters of the conversation. What equipment do you need, what caliber, can I show up with Grand Dad's Hunting rifle? Short answer, sure! There are two divisions in F-Class, F Target Rifle (FTR) and F-Open. I'll speak about FTR first.
FTR doesn't stand for F Tactical Rifle. Target rifle is limited to just 2 calibers. .223/5.56 and .308. It also has a weight limitation of 18'ish pounds including your bi-pod and scope. You can shoot a bolt gun or from the AR platform. There are a few who do shoot from the AR platform and have a great time. I highly recommend a bolt gun. Good choices are the standards, Remington, Savage and Ruger Precision. I'll not post an opinion on which is better (Remington 700) but bring what you got and have some fun.
Actions/Barrels
For either division, a custom action is always great. Having a blueprinted and trued Savage or Rem 700 is still a great options. Any of the actions from Kelbly, Stiller, Surgeon, Defiance, etc, etc.... etc.... are great to build on. Some have had great success with a Remage setup. You get a great match grade barrel for a great cost and avoid the smithing fees.
As far as barrels, you really can't go wrong on manufacture. Any barrel from any of the top manufactures will do you fine. Length and contour will be a bigger issue than choosing a manufacturer. Also, having the correct free-bore or knowing where the lands are, is key.
With F-TR with the low weight limit, a smaller contour will be needed. If you are going to shoot 1,000 yards, especially with .308 a longer barrel will be required. Most guys are running a 30" barrel. Yes you read that right. Velocity is king. Does that mean you can't be competitive or have fun with a shorter barrel. Nope, I'm running a 24". Am I changing, yes. Remember, you are trying to shoot x-rings. Any advantage you can get helps. I get into more of the length discussion in the reloading area.
For F-Open, 30" straight taper 1.25" is the standard.
Rests and Bi-pods
I believe you have to shoot from a bi-pod and you can use a rear bag or squeeze bag. My second match 1st string, I cleaned my target with a 200.9x using a home made squeeze bag at 300 yards. Most serious competitors are using a rear sand bag (FTR & F-Open). Most use bags from Protektor. You can custom order (doesn't cost anymore) a bag to your liking. Flat Top, slight slope, super slick ears, heavy sand but keep the ears at 2" or under. Also, I'd stay away from ordering one online from Midway. You can actually call them up and order exactly what you want directly from them. Most use a flat top, heavy bag with slick 2" ears with a carry handle. Its pretty much the top of the line.
The best bang for the buck is the Sinclair's International bi-pod with elevations adjustment found here:
https://www.brownells.com/shooting-...-w-quick-adjust-elevation-knob-prod44699.aspx
It comes with the sling stud attatchment and for $40 more you can get the picatinny rail attachment.
Other good choices are the Phoenix Bi-pod but the best option, money isn't an option, is the Seb Joy-Pod (if you can get one):
JOYPOD Bipod | SEB Rests
What I found out is that the joystick style rests allow for very fast elevation and windage adjustments.
Stocks
This area pertains to both F-Open and F-TR.
Lots of options here. Most folks are using adjustable stocks of some make. Kelbly, McMillan, Cerus the list goes on and on. Options that fit any wallet. I would recommend some sort of stock with a bedding block in it and free floating. Bell and Carlson is a great choice for the money. Chassis aren't as frequently used but I use one. I do it out of comfort. I personally use a MPA chassis that is geared more towards PRS but its extremely comfortable and it shoots VERY well for me. Lots of options including a rear weight system that includes and Enhanced Rear Bag Slider.
McMillan is now making their F-Class exclusive stock called the Kestros. They offer options for adjusable cheek and rear but it offers a, just short of, 3" fore-end which is a restriction to the F-Open division. It has to be at or under 3".
Keep in mind there are a few things to understand when shooting that pertain to stocks. Free Recoil and the standard way. Free Recoil is where you have very little of your cheek and shoulder touching the stock and you touch the trigger to fire. Its most commonly done in F-Open.
Optics
Again, this topic serves both F-TR and T-Open. I'll start with Spotting scopes. Budget will dictate what you use. You do NOT have to have one but its nice to have. Most guys will allow you to use their scope on the firing line if pulling targets is required. With Electronic Targets, a spotting scope is left at home unless you are trying to get someone on the target. I have a very budget friendly scope that I really like. Its about $300. Its from Konus. It does have a bit of chromatic aberration but its has a lot of magnification and is very clear. I would recommend the 80x mag version.
https://www.amazon.com/Konus-7120-20x-60x80mm-Spotting-Tripod/dp/B001DX7Q8W
Is a more expensive spotter better, depends. If you are good at reading mirage, then yes. Picking up mirage can be crucial on calling wind.
Rifle Scopes. At this can/is and will be debated until the end of time. Something that can't be debated is, for F-class, 2nd focal plane, MOA 1/8" clicks, and high magnification. Brand? Right now the sweetness is a Vortex Golden Eagle. 1/8" click, SFP, high mag for CHEAP!!!!!! Its clear, great eye relief. It was designed specifically for F-Class.
We shoot Vortex and I'm a big fan but when putting together my gear, I'm VERY budget minded. I shoot a Vortex PST Gen I 6-26 FFP Mil-Dot. I know, I know. "But you said....." Yep, I did. I was under the delusion that 1/10 click Mil equaled .13" at 100 yards. Hey we all make mistakes. Its actually, 1/3" of an inch. That is huge. Don't make the same mistake I did. I'm good at holds. Shooting F-Class with a Mil-Dot scope will turn you in a holding pro in no time.
Nightforce Competition scope is a great choice if you have the money, March scopes, Kahles, Anthlon, Sightron. 1/4" click is fine. But get the highest magnification you can afford. You are shooting at a MOA target. The closer you can see the more and easier it is to place your shot. The downside, you may place your shot on someone else's target. That's a 0.
As far as reticles, some like the floating target dot, fine cross hairs and of course MOA hash. Get what you like.
F-Open Gear
A lot of the FTR gear crosses over to F-Open. Just know that you have a lot more room for equipment here. You can use any caliber you like. 6mm and 6.5mm are great for mid-range. 7mm's are good all around. Shoot what you like. There are no limitations to caliber here. Wildcats, sure. Just be safe.
F-Class is limited to 22'ish lbs. and that does not include a front/rear rest or bipod. Yes, that's right, you can use a front rest. The current hotness is the Seb Neo. Just like the joy pod, it has a joystick for quick fast accurate elevation/Wind adjustments. The problem is, its $1000 - $1300 dollars and has a wait list longer than Tesla.
If you don't want to wait, or pay the 2nd hand market or retail market another great choice to learn on is the Bald Eagle rest.
Triangle Windage Rest - Cast Iron | Grizzly Industrial
Do yourself a favor and order the F-Class feet. Its cheap and effective.
You can also order a 3" or 2" wide sand bag for a rest from Protektor.
Rear bag is the same recommendation from F-TR. The Protektor rear bag.
Range Gear
A range cart or wagon is recommended. If you are on a budget and you had small kids. Steal their Radio Flyer Wagon. If its just you, it will work. Dragging your ammo and gun, bags, rests, etc down the range as you are switching firing lines sucks. Slows you down. Using one to unload your reange gear in one trip is great. If the Radio Flyer isn't an option or you have an ego issue try one from Academy Sports:
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/ac...-1000-dock-utility-cart#repChildCatid=4654505
Cheap, Chinese made and nice tires. Do yourself a favor, use the rear gate not the front if things are to long.
Shooting mat. Two choices, Midway's mat or a long section of remnant carpet. Both work. I'll let you get your own link.
Gun Bag/Case:
Hard cases are fine but a chore to lug around the range. Any will do. These have backpack style straps and a soft case:
http://www.champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx?p=ItemDetailOptions&item=CC3258
Chairs, you'll need one unless you want to sit on the ground. Folding camping chairs work or one of these are really nice:
https://www.cabelas.com/product/CABELAS-STANDARD-DIRECTORS-CHAIR/2416323.uts?slotId=5
Cooler. Must have. Bring your lunch and LOTS of water. I can't stress this enough. You will be out in sun all day. Don't be stupid, don't be a hard ass. Bring water.
Sunscreen. Bring it along with Bug Spray. The hover flies are nasty at Borden and Camp Atterbury and those little f*ckers bite.
Canopy - Shooting at Borden its nice to have one of these behind the line. If the winds are calm all day, they will let you set one up on the firing line. Its rare. At Camp Atterbury if you are shooting 1,000 yards, they will let you set it up on the line. Very nice. Makes a very smooth day. I bought one from Dick's. It hurt to do it but they had a good one very cheap. It is on sale sometimes for $59.99.
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/...opy-16ccau10x10vsrs2podr/16ccau10x10vsrs2podr
Reloading
I've saved this section for last. I feel this is one of the most important aspects of any shooting sport. More so for Bench Rest and F-Class. You may have a hidden 1/3" rifle and may not even know it if you reloading isn't up to snuff. If you have a factory gun that shoots 3/4" or over 1/2" group that's great, buy a lottery ticket because its rare. Bring it out and have some fun. My opinion, its pretty rare. Keep in mind also, as the barrel really heats up from shooting 20 rounds in 20 minutes, it may change. Unlike bench rest, we don't shoot groups but we shoot X's. There is some margin for error.
I won't get into the specifics of reloading or the practices. Plenty of books and lots of help can be found on this forum. Get a solid routine down. Find what works for you. Some people like to anneal, some don't. Some like to only size the neck, some bump the shoulders on the full size.
Get a solid single stage press. Get high quality dies. I'm using Lee Dies and shooting excellent scores. I am moving to another more expensive die.
A good caliper with the Hornady shoulder gauge and ogive gauge is a must have. Whidden dies come with the should bump gauge.
Powder throw. Believe it or not, I think, most of the guys doing really well have REALLY expensive scale and powder throw setups. Don't believe me? If you aren't faint of heart Look here:
https://www.autotrickler.com/auto-trickler.html
I started to REALLY dial in my performance when I picked up a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Combo. I used a 2 scale setup but having an accurate charge is key. Using the accuracy node method to find the best load is key. But being able to quickly and accurately throw charges is a must. I love reloading but loading more than 150 rounds single stage right now is really getting on my nerves. Getting my powder under control was the single biggest jump in performance to me. It was night and day. Went from Shooting a 540 combined score to a 560'ish with Sierra 175's for mid range.
You do want to pay attention to extreme spreads and standard deviations. If your reloading isn't up to snuff and you drop 100 FPS at 1,000 yards, your bullet is going to be an 8 instead of an X. Been there, done that. Funny as hell when it happens to you. Being able to explain your misses almost eliminates the frustrations. For me, unknowns frustrate me beyond belief. But being able to look at the data and point, ha! Here it is. Is a great feeling.
For bullet selection, you kind of have to follow the crowd. These folks know what wins and what works. Any advantage on that day is key. Right now Berger is making bullets specifically for F-Class. Hybrid bullets, VLD's, etc. For FTR the current sweetness is the 200.20x bullet and the 185 gr Juggernaut. F-Open I can't really say because what we are building is for a 7mm. Sierra's are a great choice but they just aren't cutting the mustard anymore. The downside to Berger's is they are expensive and they can be a PITA to find.
Brass - Lapua, Peterson, Alpha. Nothing else. Hornady is sh*t. There may be one more manufacturer out there. Repeat-ability, reliability, re-usability. That is all. Trim to the smallest length, shoot it. Bump size it, again, that is all.
Chronograph
A Cronograph is key. It is just another tool in the bag. People say to not chase velocities. Well, that is true but read this article:
Long range load development at 100 yards. | Shooters' Forum
I personally recommend using the optimal charge weight to find the best group and then use the method above to find your accuracy nodes. The problem with being told not to chase velocities is that for longer ranges, you have to. Using electronic targets you have to be above supersonic at the target to register. I was pushing Sierra's accurately out of my 24" barrel at 2700 fps. On a cooler humid day, they weren't registering on the e-target. All calculators told me when the temp went up and humidity dropped a little I was super sonic but still not registering. Nothing ruins a day more when you can't compete.
There are magic velocity numbers for bullets beyond 1,000 yards and you have to find what works for you accurately.
Speaking of Chronographs.
Money no option - option: Lab Radar. Its simply the best for F-Class. Its iPad and Android app isn't the greatest. When you arm it with a tablet/phone, the Bluetooth drops. You can arm it with the iPad/iPhone and download all data for analysis. You set it behind the muzzle and you forget it. As long as it is angled properly, which can be tricky. Muzzle brakes are a no no. It will damage it. If someone is shooting with a muzzle brake beside you, don't get it out or ask them to move. For club level events you can put it on the line with you. Nationals and State Championships, nope. Finding your Extreme Spreads and Standard Deviations are as easy as looking on the screen.
A close 2nd is Magnetospeed. Its a great piece. Problem is, you can damage it and it hangs on the barrel. Not to mention, I wouldn't want to use it during competitions. It shows your ES and SD's.
Crony is another good piece but you know the story here. Hard to setup, easy to shoot and damage. The lower end ones don't show ES and SD's. Hard to start new strings.
To sum it up for this section is having the ability to analyze based on the data is the BIGGEST advantage. Making small improvements based on clear analytical data is key to saving money and in my opinion having the most fun. A lot of your fellow competitors will take notice when they see steady improvements to your scores and compliment you and oithers. A lot of these long timers love seeing people sharing their passion and seeing others improve. It really is a great hobby and sport.
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(Ooh, ooh...I know this one, Mr. Kotter...) Free jar of spent primers to the first person who gets it within +/-4 ounces.
