Reloading rifle cartridges

I'm new to reloading bottle-neck rifle cartridges, but not new to reloading.

That being said, what do I need to look at/for when dealing with neck tension, crimp, seating, etc.... I'm looking for information specific to non straight-wall rifle cartridges.

At this point, I'll be starting with .223 and moving on up from there.

What are you shooting them out of? Bolt gun? Semi auto?

If you are shooting bolt action you can gain some live with just a neck size and an occasional full length resize. Neck tension is preset on the dies. But the crimp is adjustable.And is a different die for a factory crimp. Are you doing a factory crimp or a roll crimp? I prefer a factory over a roll. It's less fussy about cartridge length. You need enough to make sure the bullet doesn't move.

What dies are you using? The setup is different between roll and factory. Give us a bit more info to help you.

When full length resizing, bottle necked cases need to be lubricated even if carbide dies are used. Most dies available are steel, not carbide. A small amount of lube is applied to the case body not the neck or the shoulder. Excessive lube will dent the case shoulder and possibly the neck.

After resizing measure OAL to see if trimming is needed.

Here is a great straight forward article on neck sizing.
RELOADERS CORNER: REALLY Understanding Case Neck Sizing | Midsouth Shooters Blog

I use the lee factory crimp die and so far, it has served me well. I crimp as light as I can get away with. I don't want it to deform the bullet, but crimp it enough so the bullet does not move. In my experience with an AR-15 in 223, you are more likely to have the bullet move forward when it is chambered. I have yet to run into a problem with the bullets moving inside the magazine because of recoil. I would recommend picking up a Hornady bullet comparator to measure at the ogive rather than the tip. You can test for bullet movement by loading a couple of cartridges sans powder and primer, then run them through the gun and measure. If you get no or minimal movement after doing this ten times I consider that to be the appropriate amount of crimp.

Seating depth depends on what you want to accomplish. You need to measure the max magazine length and max chamber length. I measure this using the Hornady OAL gauge and Hornady Modified Case. The caveat here is that you will also need the Hornady Case Headspace comparator to find the difference of the Hornady Modified Case. (See linked YouTube video below for explanation) That length also needs to feed reliably. That's another reason for making the dummy rounds mentioned above. If your intended purpose is accuracy, seating depth so that the bullet is a certain distance off the lands plays into that. Also, the more case capacity you have, the more velocity you *might* be able to achieve for a given pressure, but depends on powder being used. All of that being said, I would not get too focused on seating depth just yet. Use the appropriate load data, use their COAL and make sure it cycles through the gun just fine.

The biggest difference between pistol and bottle neck cartridges is case prep and looking for pressure signs. I would focus on those first and not be too distracted with figuring out a perfect seating depth. Also, be careful with the lube that you use and how much you use so you don't dimple the shoulder.

All standard caveats apply. My methods may be dumb, dangerous and you may blow your face off. Enjoy!

Excellent information form this gent on measuring max chamber COAL.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=whln3B3DFAY