UPS Power Supply - Stay Online in an outage

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  • sngehl01

    Plinker
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    Sep 21, 2018
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    Elizabeth
    Hey guys. Was reading through this, and there was something I did that may be helpful for others.

    During a power outage, your corded phone will still work (well, it's possible it goes out too, but ours is usually still on). I think that's fairly common knowledge.

    What I did during an extended outage (~2 days) this past winter was wire my router/modem combo (I use Frontier Communications for my ISP) to a series of batteries so we could get online and get updates. By powering the router and having an active phone line we were able to browse the internet with our phones as if there was no internet.

    Since then I have bought a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) and plugged the router into it. You can check out the power usage of your router/modem combo (or each, if separate) to see how big of a one you should get, depending how long you want to have it online.

    If you have a generator, this isn't really needed. We have one, but if the outage is short, we may not bother with hooking it up. If power goes off unexpectedly we are still able to hop online with our phones or laptops and try to figure out what's going on.
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Do an actual runtime test on the UPS. You will be SHOCKED how many electrons are lost to heat and how little runtime you will really get . So if you look at the battery capacity and think you can get x hours out of it because you are only drawing a tiny amount of current, you will be VERY disappointed.

    I had a similar situation. I had to have some network gear running with 24 hours of power backup for a small enterprise router and an 8 port data switch. Not the whole rack of stuff. But it was deep in a building so a small generator wasnt an option. No worries, my power calculations of only 2 watts of utility current would work if I bought a half dozen expansion packs. Nope! It was actually less than 5 hours due to inefficiencies in the DC->AC conversion. It's inverter was only 96% efficient, and only when you are drawing 95% of the max rated load of the UPS. It was stupidly inefficient at the 2% output level I needed.

    The only way to get what you want is to use 100% 12VDC devices directly connected to deep cycle batteries, use a charger to keep them juiced, and dont use an inverter to get it back to 110VAC. (only to transform it back to 12VDC)
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Also, POTS lines are being phased out. The FCC granted permission to the carriers to begin phasing them out. In some areas you cant even buy new service today. The general plan is to continue to operate the lines and phase them out due to attrition. Eventually when it costs more to support the back end due to falling numbers of subscribers, they will then shut down the networks and move them to VoIP service.
     

    Expat

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    Also, POTS lines are being phased out. The FCC granted permission to the carriers to begin phasing them out. In some areas you cant even buy new service today. The general plan is to continue to operate the lines and phase them out due to attrition. Eventually when it costs more to support the back end due to falling numbers of subscribers, they will then shut down the networks and move them to VoIP service.
    I had not read about that. So when they pull the plug, those of us with land line copper wire service will just be SOL? Or try to get it through our ISP?
     

    Cameramonkey

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    I had not read about that. So when they pull the plug, those of us with land line copper wire service will just be SOL? Or try to get it through our ISP?


    It will have to come through the internet. Its called Voice over IP. Its really handy and cheap too. I pay $3/month for a VOIP line running on top of my cable internet service. Granted its not as resilient as POTS but damn you cant beat the cost. (Magic Jack)

    We just wanted something for the kids if we ran out for a quick errand without paying for another cell phone.
     

    Icarry2

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    I have built power units for people where during normal grid up situations they are powered normally through AC/DC converters like come with most all the equpment. Most residential Cable Modems, Routers, Wifi units use DC power.

    Then when the grid goes down all you have to do is switch to the DC power system for the home. Usually solar charged battery banks. Things that can run off DC are connected to the DC grid.

    My cable modem uses 1.6 amps of 15 volt power and my Wifi router uses 1.25 amps of 12 volt power. Some small voltage regulators connected to the houses 24 Volt system keeps everything powered up.

    So long as the cable company has power for its up-link and gear I am good.
     

    JeepHammer

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    The problem with most home size UPSs is the tiny battery.
    Most will support a much larger battery but it will have to sit next to the UPS unit.

    A UPS is also a power filter, and a quite good one preventing power spikes & brown outs from killing your computer.

    Its basically a battery charger, power filter/switch, and usually 12 VDC to 110 VAC inverter all in one case.
    Not much room for a big battery in that case, so short run time.
    The better units come with a connection cable & software to shut the computer down properly when power failures of more than a few seconds happens, saving your work...

    It *Can* be used for a short term power supply, but that's not its primary function.
    Now, battery, or batteries connected to a proper inverter will handle larger loads for longer without damage...
    And you are on your way to an off grid power supply by just adding some
    solar panels to maintain/charge the battery/batteries...
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    I have a cheap little power inverter and a deep cycle battery that I keep charged. I plug a power strip with my tv, modem, set top box, phone and one lamp into it if we lose power. In a pinch I can plug in my laptop to it as well. Granted it's not a long term solution, but for outages of 2-3 hours I can at least be entertained. :):
     

    eldirector

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    I have several UPS's around the house. One for the router and "tech stack" as noted up-thread. Another for my "office" desk (phone, monitors, and the like). Another on the family room AV stack (TV, xbox, cable box). While they are indeed useful in an outage, where we can stay online or even have the TV on for a little while, the biggest plus is for brown-outs, spikes, and surges. I hear the relays clicking away during high winds (one of the units is pretty old, but a workhorse), and in the winter when the snow/ice is heavy on the power lines. I've lost equipment to crappy power a few times in the past, so this is just a bit of insurance.

    You can get replacement batteries fairly reasonably now. I've replaced a few over the years.
     

    JeepHammer

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    It would be advisable to use a full, true sine wave inverter rather than a modified sine wave or square wave inverter.
    True sine wave inverters are safe for about all electronics while square wave and sometimes modified sine wave will kill some sensitive electronics.

    While some scream about efficiency (in a short term emergency situation) it's not a big deal.
    The little inverters are so cheap you could have a 75 watt, a 150 Watt and still not be $60 into them.
    They are sold everyday to plug into cigar lighters to power up laptops & such, and they are cheap.

    If you want to power up the fridge, freezer, and maybe run a gas furnace for heat, look upwards of 2,500 Watts.
    That will power the gas valve, ignitor & vent fan, which is all it takes with a gas furnace.
    Guys with gas heat might take notice of a potential emergency backup, since you can heat the house with a car battery and 2,000-2,500 watt inverter.
    When it's not running the furnace, it can run the fridge, freezer and a couple low consumption lights (LED or CF).

    ----------

    Not being particularly trusting of firearms, ammo, reloading law changes,
    There is a reason my benches are stand alone, and will fit through common door/frames and will fit on a dolly,
    And the entire reloading benches are battery/inverter powered.
    Case neck qualifiers, case body roller, annealing machine, driven press, lights, bullet feeders, case feeder, the entire works can go mobile in about an hour notice.

    b2315288-65f3-4e02-9fb2-c195cfd69187-original.jpg


    IMG_1189_zpsgizslm99.jpg


    But then again, I'm not 'Theoretical' so some will argue the point even though it's up and running....

    Left is case neck qualifier 3,000 an hour,
    Middle is case die plate roller, motor driven, about 1,300 an hour,
    Right is Dillon Super 1050 motor driven, speed is determined by what I'm processing.
    Notice the blue bins have the bottoms open & dump into buckets, it's not exactly a setup for a few hundred a year...

    The inverter, upper picture, the yellow & black box on the left, will also power up the cement mixer I use to clean brass.
    It's not exactly an underpowered unit, and it's plenty compact as you can see.
    The blue tub (upper photo) is batteries and will power up the entire works for about 8 hours before they need charged again.

    It will also power up the propane furnace I have just for this arrangement in the event I have to go mobile, a trailer would need heat in the winter and at least a fan in the summer...
     
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    10-32

    Sharpshooter
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    Nov 28, 2011
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    B-Burg
    I've taken one of the smaller 650 model UPS units and wired it to a deep cycle battery. I can get 10 hours of run time with a 24" smart tv, modem, wireless router and three 10watt LED lights all going together. I have considered hooking up a 2nd battery to it. During a true power outage I wont be running the smart tv and probably one of the led lights. I'll most likely use my MagicTV with my tablet to watch local channels.
     
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    sngehl01

    Plinker
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    Sep 21, 2018
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    Elizabeth
    Adding additional batteries is a great idea. You could also keep extra batteries stored in another location and hook them up as needed. If you wanted a UPS with a small backup in your TV cabinet, for example, you could leave it, and when the power goes out, bring up the extra battery/batteries.

    Nice ideas, guys.
     

    ClydeB

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    Sep 17, 2012
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    Southern Hoosier
    During the 2008 ice storm I hooked a 140w inverter to my Ford Explorer battery via the cigarette lighter. It gave me enough juice to do the following.
    A. LED light bulb, cable modem, laptop.
    OR
    B. Run my Cpap machine (original purpose)

    I parked it in the garage, extension cord into house, ran my shop vac hose from tailpipe to under garage door, and when the low voltage sensor turned off the inverter I just ran the Explorer for 30 minutes to top off the battery.
     

    JeepHammer

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    Aug 2, 2018
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    While people complain about 'Efficiency',
    The truth is, there is economy in scale.
    The guy with a single solar panel & single (small) battery with small inverter is going to be very limited.
    A single panel WILL NOT run your appliances AND charge the battery, so you don't have daytime power to get the battery charged.
    Larger scale on solar panels WILL power both the inverter and battery charger.

    Charging in an emergency with your vehicle burns gasoline, often a FINITE resource, and most certainly a finite resource in a SHTF situation.
    Solar (or wind, or micro-hydro) is renewable.

    Things with electric motors, fridge, freezer, blower on a furnace, well pump, etc are QUICKLY going to find an inverter 'Rated' the same or slightly more than the appliance (s) won't start them...

    An inverter that barely starts a fridge/freezer WILL NOT start that fridge/freezer again right after it just ran...
    The reason is pressure still on the pump makes the motor MUCH harder to start.
    Up to three times it's 'Rated' running power to get it started.

    Having a dozen small inverters makes little sense, other than redundancy...
    Larger inverter will run the essentials, fridge/freezer, blower motor on a gas furnace, and some low consumption lights.
    Take all that load off, and it will do fine with a microwave for dinner, then plug the essentials back in.

    1. Larger inverters have overload protection, low voltage shut down so you don't damage your inverter or appliances, and they usually provide USB power these days without adapters that waste energy and can be trouble prone in more ways than one...

    2. Most of the larger inverter have a 'Surge' 1-1/2 to 2 times (double) their rated capacity. On 3,000 watt inverters it's often 6,000 watt surge to get hard to start appliances running.

    3. The price isn't prohibitive anymore, about $100 per 1,500 Watts for the mid level inverters with good surge surplus current, over/under current protection, circuit breakers, ect.
    The upper end will run about $100 per 1,000 Watts, but they come with battery charger, charge controllers and battery maintenance (like charge leveling & de-sulfidator) built into them.

    4. Solar panels are coming with 'Plug & Play' wiring, and they work equally as well laying in the back yard as they do on mounted racks in an emergency.
    Simply position them so they get full sunlight, and plug them in AFTER the disaster cause has passed.
    You DO need to get them up off the ground for longer term use, they do need airspace and they need to be up away from ground moisture, but you can use what ever is handy after SHTF if you want to store them until then.

    5. If you are serious,
    The new batteries have a charge density that lead/acid batteries can't dream of.
    With electric car batteries getting cheaper all the times, being MUCH lighter, lasting 2x to 4x lead/acid, AND having as much as 10x the charge/discharge capacity of lead/acid, these are great for serious renewable energy or serious backup batteries.
    (See Tesla Power Wall)

    This isn't speculation,
    I've been off grid for 20 years, everything in my power system has redundant backups, and these new batteries are the missing component to put renewables over the top, less costly than buying power from the grid...
    AND, you NEVER loose power.
    If you expand, the systems expand with you, it's all modular, you simply add to the system instead of starting from scratch again.

    --------

    As for the little battery backup for computers, look on the back or bottom for screws covering the battery compartment...
    See what the voltage of the battery inside is, 99/100 it will be a sealed 12 DC gel cell,
    And your 'Car' battery will hook right to the wires (+/-) and extend your capabilities.
    That's lawn mower battery, motorcycle battery, car battery, boat or trolling motor battery, what ever is charged.

    If you are worried about emergencies, make up a couple wires (in red & black) with car battery clamps on one end, the proper terminals for the UPS wires on the other end, and keep them with the UPS.
    Again, 99/100 it will be common 1/4" spade terminals.
    Now you are set to use any 12 volt battery you can scrounge.

    I do recommend a 'Battery Tray', as simple as a plastic pan to sit the lead/acid battery in.
    Lead/acid batteries off gas sulfuric acid when discharging, and that will show up as 'Sweat' on top, runs down the case.
    It's REALLY hard on most things inside a home, like wood floors or cabinets.
     
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