.38 Special Keyholes

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  • indyblue

    Guns & Pool Shooter
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    4   0   0
    Aug 13, 2013
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    Indy Northside `O=o-
    I inherited this S&W Police Chiefs Special Model 36 from 1956 a few years back. It stayed in the safe until today I decided to find out how it shoots.

    I posted this dot target 9 feet away and it is keyholing. It shot very accurately, outliers are my fault as I was trying out DA and SA shots and I found out the SA is REALLY touchy.

    Is this due to the pistol being a snub nose too far away? Or more likely the old (probably 50-60 yo) ammo I was shooting? 38 Special 158 gr LRN
    Should I just try some modern ammo to further test? What particular bullet/weight would be the best choice in this platform?
    model_36.jpg keyholes.jpg
     

    MrSmitty

    Master of useless information
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    13   0   0
    Jan 4, 2010
    4,591
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    New Albany
    The gun is defective, send it to me ASAP to dispose of it properly......
    I think (don't know for sure) that the 158 round nose bullets were originally designed for the 4 bbl guns, that might be the problem, but I could be wrong. I'm sure some police departments issued the 158 for the undercover cops, so....again I could be wrong....so I'm no help what-so-ever...
    But it is a beautiful gun!!
     

    dak109

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    Jun 26, 2009
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    Brown County
    More likely undersized cast bullets. Slug the bore and load bullets .001-.002” bigger than slugged size.
    Or as mentioned above send it to me instead
     

    indyblue

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    TY for the replies. I will try theses suggestions and report back.

    I was a bit surprised at how powerful this little beast is, has quite a kick to it.

    I'll back up the paper and try FMJ, might help. I should probably also try some Critical Defense as well since I might decide to use this as a carry gun instead of my 92FS (or should I? Does this have any collector value?).

    1646882236458.png 1646882488003.png

     

    Born2vette

    Norm, Team woodworker
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    Jul 25, 2020
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    TY for the replies. I will try theses suggestions and report back.

    I was a bit surprised at how powerful this little beast is, has quite a kick to it.

    I'll back up the paper and try FMJ, might help. I should probably also try some Critical Defense as well since I might decide to use this as a carry gun instead of my 92FS (or should I? Does this have any collector value?).

    View attachment 187019 View attachment 187021

    Could always run up to Marksman and ask Chris. Also look at completed auctions on GB

    See these active ones:

     

    joncon

    Sharpshooter
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    Mar 30, 2013
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    Bartholomew County
    Very nice gun. Model 36's make great carry guns. Here's my 1962 model. The Tyler T-Grip helps with the recoil.
    Some interesting info on model 36 Smith's they had diamond style grips until 1968, and flat latches until 1966.
    The J prefix was added in 1969 and they had pinned barrels until 1982. All info taken from the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 4th edition 2016. MVC-074S.JPG
     

    indyblue

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    Aug 13, 2013
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    Very nice gun. Model 36's make great carry guns. Here's my 1962 model. The Tyler T-Grip helps with the recoil.
    Some interesting info on model 36 Smith's they had diamond style grips until 1968, and flat latches until 1966.
    The J prefix was added in 1969 and they had pinned barrels until 1982. All info taken from the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson 4th edition 2016. View attachment 187033
    I have been trying to decode mine, but not sure how.
    All the codes I find start with J and none of the numerical sequences are that short. Mine says Model 36 under the barrel with cylinder open. Bottom of grip says 2J5335 and that's all. Price on the box says $76.50.
     

    92FSTech

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    Dec 24, 2020
    1,203
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    North Central
    I'll echo to make sure your target is backed and well secured to some solid cardboard that isn't free to swing back and forth. Some of those look more like tears than tumbled bullets...they are far too long for a 158gr .357 pill. Particularly the one down by the 8 looks like there's a circular grease ring where the bullet went through straight, and the tear just emanates out from the hole. The picture's not clear enough for me to tell with some of the others, but I'll admit the one about 7 o-clock on the 3 does make me think tumbled bullet.

    As far as mechanical stuff to check...look in the barrel for damaged rifling or leading, check the muzzle crown for damage, and check for proper lockup and timing. If your cylinder isn't lining up properly with the barrel causing the bullet to enter the forcing cone out of alignment, it's going to deform or even shave the bullet, which can present itself in unpredictable ways downrange.

    Also check and make sure that the forcing cone isn't cracked or damaged, and check the frame under the barrel for cracks.

    If all of that stuff checks out, try different ammo. You've got some antique stuff there that I've never heard of, so I can't speak to it's quality...but it's definitely old! The S&W Model 36 is a great little gun. If in proper working order and proper ammo, it should produce excellent results at 3 yards.
     

    Tyler-The-Piker

    Boondock Saint
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    101   0   0
    Jun 24, 2013
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    Having the original box, paperwork, and brush does help your collectable value...but sounds like you want to find a load it likes and then carry it? I say go for it. But be prepared for current 38spl ammo prices
     

    joncon

    Sharpshooter
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    23   0   0
    Mar 30, 2013
    700
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    Bartholomew County
    I have been trying to decode mine, but not sure how.
    All the codes I find start with J and none of the numerical sequences are that short. Mine says Model 36 under the barrel with cylinder open. Bottom of grip says 2J5335 and that's all. Price on the box says $76.50.
    My book has serial numbers with a J in them started in 1969, they changed to a one piece folded cardboard box in 1980 and a large plastic box in early 96 and a smaller plastic box in late 96. Factory nickel boxes were usually silver.
    Factory nickel guns had a N stamped in the left side of the frame under the grips.
    Serial numbers 69-70 J1-99999, 71-72 1J1-999J99, 73-74 J100000-J250000, 1983 starts at 1J18601 My book didn't list any with 2J in the serial, but it only shows up to 1983.
     
    Last edited:

    rkwhyte2

    aka: Vinny
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    Sep 26, 2012
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    Sheridan
    You can always ask the historian's at S&W they will tell you everything you might like to know about your pistol.
     
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