Any steel vs brass updates?

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  • Bugzilla

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    Seems most of the steel vs brass posts are several years old. Some good information out there, but several years old. Main interest would be .223 Ammo. See steel for .33 a round and the least expensive brass around .48 a round. A case would last me a while if there is no insurrection so the difference in cost is minimal. But I would rather have the extra bucks in my pocket vs the ammo store’s pocket.
     

    TacticalFun

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    Seems most of the steel vs brass posts are several years old. Some good information out there, but several years old. Main interest would be .223 Ammo. See steel for .33 a round and the least expensive brass around .48 a round. A case would last me a while if there is no insurrection so the difference in cost is minimal. But I would rather have the extra bucks in my pocket vs the ammo store’s pocket.
    It depends on your goals. Barrel will wear twice as fast, dirtier, accuracy is bad etc. If it is for fun and you dont mind changing the barrel after 5k go for it.

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    IUKalash429

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    So what are you asking, specifically? All the good info regarding accuracy, performance, wear and tear, etc. floating around pretty much remains the same, regardless of time. Only thing that's changed is the price. If that's the primary question in your post, then yes, steel is still cheaper. If you go with brass, you can add a few cents per round back in your pocket as long you harvest your cases after shooting and sell them.

    You shooting out of an AR, I assume? I run about 95% steel case through my 5.56 AKs and the rest is Wolf Gold. No issues with steel, but I'm also not shooting for competition precision - beer coaster-sized groups in paper and ringing gongs is all I need. From personal and anecdotal evidence, AKs tend to have less issues with steel-cased ammo than ARs, but that's been covered ad nauseam in the good info out there.

    Only suggestion if you buy a case of steel case - avoid Tula if possible. It's the only Russian ammo I've had woes with in 7.62x39, 5.45x39, 7.62x54r, and .223. For me it seems dirtier, underpowered, less accurate (even by eastern bloc ammo standards), and less reliable. YMMV.
     

    DadSmith

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    It depends on your goals. Barrel will wear twice as fast, dirtier, accuracy is bad etc. If it is for fun and you dont mind changing the barrel after 5k go for it.

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
    If its an AR barrel you can find then on sale for $80 which is cheap to replace and fire all the bi metal Jacketed bullets you want.


    If you look at the money you save and I believe per 1000 you can save as much as $200 per 1000rds. That pays for at least 2 barrels Now you said replace a barrel at 5000. That's now $1000 savings you could by 4 top brand barrels with the money you save from shooting bi metal Jacketed ammunition.



    Is there any proof or tests done that show the actual round count where barrel wear from bi metal jackets wore a barrel out enough to change it? If so post it so we can make an accurate assessment of cost of barrel vs bi metal ammunition.
     

    TacticalFun

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    If its an AR barrel you can find then on sale for $80 which is cheap to replace and fire all the bi metal Jacketed bullets you want.


    If you look at the money you save and I believe per 1000 you can save as much as $200 per 1000rds. That pays for at least 2 barrels Now you said replace a barrel at 5000. That's now $1000 savings you could by 4 top brand barrels with the money you save from shooting bi metal Jacketed ammunition.



    Is there any proof or tests done that show the actual round count where barrel wear from bi metal jackets wore a barrel out enough to change it? If so post it so we can make an accurate assessment of cost of barrel vs bi metal ammunition.
    This is common knowledge by now. Im not sure how people still havnt seen these.





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    1nderbeard

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    Don't know much to say for or against the barrel wear.
    I have a AR in 7.62x39 and a few Aks. The only thing I just started to notice with the AR is a few light primer strikes with Tula ammo. Typically the cheapest of the cheap. Prior to that I've shot Wolf Steel with no issues. I've been accurate out to 200 yards on a man sized target with the steel. Granted, that's not the caliber about which you were asking.
    The AKs will run basically whatever. Don't have any accuracy reports; I've only used them indoors. At 25 yards they're accurate enough.
     

    DadSmith

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    This is common knowledge by now. Im not sure how people still havnt seen these.





    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
    So 5k looks to be the maximum barrel life so definitely a savings of $1,000 with current ammunition prices. That will buy a new barrel every 2500 rds and still have $500 in your pocket if you go with a Ballistic Advantage barrel. More if you go with a cheaper brand barrel.
     

    TacticalFun

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    So 5k looks to be the maximum barrel life so definitely a savings of $1,000 with current ammunition prices. That will buy a new barrel every 2500 rds and still have $500 in your pocket.
    Plus bcg wear plus hammer wear.

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    DadSmith

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    Right but it still has crap accuracy and several malfunctions per case.

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    I'm just thinking of a plunker out to shoot for fun and 4-5" moa.

    Myself I reload and use 75gr Hornady HPBT match bullets and brass cases. I chase moa or less groups.
     

    DadSmith

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    Just for fun would be a good business case

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    Hey that's why you buy Anderson and or Radical for around $500 and shoot the crap out of them with Russia steel case bi metal Jacketed bullets.


     
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    rosejm

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    All replacement parts will save you money over the long run using bi metal Jacketed bullets.
    You could buy two cheap AR-15's for $1000 to run steel ammo with.

    I'm just thinking of a plunker out to shoot for fun and 4-5" moa.
    Myself I reload and use 75gr Hornady HPBT match bullets and brass cases. I chase moa or less groups.

    This has always been the deal breaker for me. Ammo which is the bottom end of the price range, is generally the bottom end of the precision range (4-6 MOA).
    There's always going to be diminishing returns, but brass-cased ammo is generally more precise (2-4 MOA). "Match" ammo is more precise than bulk, and again the price falls into line with the precision. If it's twice as expensive, it's generally twice as precise (1-2 MOA).

    If you need the holes to touch each other, you'll need to pay for it either in your time or someone else's.
    If it just has to make noise and scare the enemy, just about anything will function these days.

    There can be exceptions, for some cartridges or lots, in some rifles. If you find one, buy multiple cases and count your blessings.
     

    JohnP82

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    Like others have already stated, what's your intended purpose? Just plinking at the range or are you looking for tight groups?

    Personally, I shoot more steel than anything. Thousands of rounds, all calibers, all platforms, and I have never had an issue. I have never had a single problem. Slightly dirtier, yes and not quite as accurate, but never a problem.
    As far as accuracy goes, my son and I both can get 2 inch groups at 100 yards with steel case .223 no problem. So it won't set any records, but that's cool we are out there having fun. I have yet to break or wear anything out, but if something needs replaced at some point so be it, I will replace it.

    To each their own, but if your purpose is to get out and shoot and enjoy the range with family and friends and you want to save some cash go for it.
     
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