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Beavertail and Hammer 1911 Difficult?
- Thread starter Tactical Bacon
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- gunsmithing
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PGRChaplain
Master
Wilson is Quailty stuff. Should be direct replacement.
Depends. A wilson beavertail has a compound radius, and you may need to cut the frame tangs to fit. They offer a "drop in" one that leaves a giant gap and looks like crap, so that might work without any fitting.
It may require some fitting where it interfaces with the trigger system.
It may require some fitting where it interfaces with the trigger system.
If you want to see how it is done correctly, take a look at this thread in the 1911forum.com Gunsmithing forum basic beavertail fitting - 1911Forum. If you are suffering from hammer bite and you're more concerned with function than esthetics, you can go the drop-in route. Like Rob says, they can look downright dorky (crappy) but they'll protect your hand. Keep in mind that you may have to swap out or bob your hammer too. There are a lot of videos on Youtube that will help you visualize what you are in for.
palerider0485
Sharpshooter
is it nickel or stainless, if its stainless then then after the tang is cut and fitted you would probuly want to bead blast the frame so it would all match, nickel,... im not real sure what u would have to do. yes to fit one right u have to file on the frame, no its not a big deal if done right, properly fit beavertails look so much better then a drop in, if your going to get a drop in,... just stay with what u got,
Do not do this unless you know what you are doing. The beavertail is essential to the safety of the gun.
If you are replacing the beavertail, I would go ahead and also replace the hammer and sear. Buy them from the same place, in a package if you can so that they have the same heat treat, and same hardness.
If the grip safety is "harder" than the sear or vice versa, the softer part will wear and eventually cause an unsafe or non functioning firearm.
If you are replacing the beavertail, I would go ahead and also replace the hammer and sear. Buy them from the same place, in a package if you can so that they have the same heat treat, and same hardness.
If the grip safety is "harder" than the sear or vice versa, the softer part will wear and eventually cause an unsafe or non functioning firearm.
No, the frame tangs are on the frame.
You can have a bubbified looking beavertail, or you can properly cut the tangs to the required radius.
vs.
That is one nice fit! Did you do that?
Nope. not me.
The grip safety does not interface with the hammer or sear. It does not matter if it is harder or softer. The grip safety arm blocks the trigger bow.
If you have a nickle gun your kinda screwed as far as a fitted beaverail goes. To fit one right you have to cut the tangs and then the beavertail has to be blended to the frame around the grip and top of the tangs etc. Usually when significant mods are done the nickle is stripped first then reapplied.
Incorrect and correct. If you have a spur hammer, the hammer will have to be replaced or bobbed.
It's been a while since I've even screwed with my 1911, so forgive my shortcoming
