Best way to fill in/remove engraved text / logos from lower receiver?

[Lebowski]

I'm slightly interested in removing the engraved text on my lower receiver for a new 300BLK build, and possibly the company's logo as well. Obviously the serial will remain in place but for aesthetics and because my AR build isn't 223/556 as the lower receiver would suggest I'd like to simply fill that, as well as a RIA logo in in a manner that will make it appear as if they were never there to begin with.

Any suggestions?

I'll probably be cerakoating the lower after this is done anyhow which will probably give me more options on how to do this permanently.

 

[vitamink]

I'd mill it out

 

[w_ADAM_d88]

JB Weld, then sand it smooth.

 

[Squirt239]

Depends on how deep the engraving is

 

[midget]

Were the letter and logo stamped or milled? If they are stamped, you will have a raised edge around each that will need to be ground down. Probably the best route will be to fill in with a decent epoxy, sand smooth, then get it cerakoted.

 

[Mgderf]

JB Weld, then sand it smooth.

^There you go.

 

[PGRChaplain]

Tig Weld and Mill.

 

[seedubs1]

This would be the professional way to go. Tig and Mill.

If you aren't willing to do that, I'd use Devcon before I'd use JB Weld.

But you should be able to find someone that'll Tig over the logo's for cheap. Pay them to do that, then remove the excess material yourself if you want to do this on the cheap. If you've got any semblance of typical tools, you should be able to remove the excess Tig pretty easily.

Tig Weld and Mill.

 

[midget]

Being able to tig weld it completely depends on the aluminum that was used for the lower. If it is 6061, that is a possibility. If I remember correctly 7075 it is not.

 

[jd4320t]

Any particular reason why? I'd get another lower.

 

[red_zr24x4]

On the RIA, the guys over here https://forums.1911forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=64 have done it a few different ways, sufface grinding, cold blueing, filling to name a few

 

[RustyHornet]

I'd use an autobody filler, then cerakote.

 

[duffman0286]

Being able to tig weld it completely depends on the aluminum that was used for the lower. If it is 6061, that is a possibility. If I remember correctly 7075 it is not.

Very correct.. you weld 7075 lower they will develop stress cracks. It's pretty much only structural...6061 will weld but requires pretty heat to avoid warp/cracking.. but if "mil spec" which most are it's 7075...the 6061are popular with the retro crowd

 

[55fairlane]

you can weld 7075, but must pre heat and post heat and let cool slowly,with the thin cross section of an AR lower, bead blast ,clean very well, some kind of epoxy, liquid steel,sand flat, used a epoxy based sandable primer,blok sand , and paint

check with your local hard coat anodizers , some types of filler can be anodized over, and that hard coat anodizing really helps keep the lower nice


I would advise against any welding or milling , to may issues with the lower failing

Aaron

 

[halfmileharry]

Whatever is used it will have to be chemical resistant. Cleaners will destroy many fillers.
I think I would check with the guys that do this professionally and have done it with QUALITY results.

 

[55fairlane]

I forgot about using an aluminum filler called lab metal , I have used it to repair fixtures an machine parts


this stuff just might be your hot ticket

 

[churchmouse]

Being able to tig weld it completely depends on the aluminum that was used for the lower. If it is 6061, that is a possibility. If I remember correctly 7075 it is not.

Also the anodizing will mess with the Tig.

 

[lazarus0213]

bead blast the area in question. solder and recoat!

 

[duffman0286]

bead blast the area in question. silver solder and recoat!

you cant silver solder aluminum the melting point is too high you'll just make a puddle. However there are some low melting aluminum solders that would work with a soldering iron and you can get it at most welding stores (Airgas) and they have some other compatible solders as well

but beware of shrinkage any time you heat/weld this can be a issue and be warned 7075 doesnt responded to spot heating very well