Building an AR

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  • 88E30M50

    Grandmaster
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    12   0   0
    Dec 29, 2008
    22,795
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    Greenwood, IN
    I used PSA parts on my 300 BO pistol build and they worked fine for me. Once you get your parts, there are a lot of YouTube videos that will step you through the process. It's not difficult at all, but just be sure to get the springs installed in the right direction. PSA occasionally runs really good deals on uppers. You might have to pick an upper up one month, then wait a couple of weeks before the BCG is on sale, but if patient, you can build a nice rifle for a decent price.
     

    duffman0286

    Master
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    17   0   0
    Feb 3, 2011
    1,648
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    Wayne Co
    Building the upper is easier then the lower. A lot easier. Don't let building an upper slow you down
    +1 been doing alot of research on building uppers and im quite surprised how easy they really are... So far i havent completed a upper yet (cost of parts vs complete uppers has kept me from doing so) However i'm kicking around a 9mm setup based off a vltor upper so this is probly the route im heading
     

    Vamptepes

    Expert
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    1   0   0
    Jul 20, 2013
    859
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    Eagledale
    When assembling a lower I have a habit of taping around the areas where your drive in roll pins. Especially both sides of the bolt release. I have the proper punches but my first one I used an old framing hammer that had a jagged edge and caught the finish and scratched it. Just pay attention to what your doing and it's easy I've done 3 lowers and 2 uppers working on the 3rd. Probably the most annoying part to me is lining the gas block up because my first one was slightly off and was undergassing my gun.
     

    sig1473

    Master
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    100   0   0
    May 28, 2009
    2,760
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    The Greater Good
    When building an upper, you NEED the proper tools and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. A good vice, AR wrench(I use the MagPul), a good torque wrench, good set of punches, clamshell vice or Reaction Rod(I use the Geissele), and proper grease(Aeroshell 33 or White Lithium). I also dimple my own barrels since I bought a BRDE gas block jig. It makes aligning the gas block easier. I will probably purchase their Gas Block drilling jig next if I want to pin my gas blocks.
     

    historian

    Master
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    0   0   0
    Oct 15, 2009
    3,301
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    SD by residency, Hoosier by heart
    I will probably just buy the upper, as I don't feel that the tool investment/cost savings is worth it at this point.

    I'm looking forward to getting my final parts today! Trigger came in yesterday so that is good. Just need the buffer/stock and the grip! :woot:

    Question. As far as grease and lube for the lower parts? Any suggestions?
     

    seedubs1

    Master
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    24   0   0
    Jan 17, 2013
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    1) Support the ear of the receiver when hammering in the trigger guard pin.
    2) Tape up the receiver when doing the bolt release pin so you don't scratch up everything.
    3) Youtube

    For the upper, the cost is pretty low if you've already got basic tools (which you should.....if you're a man). All you need is a vise (you should already have this), punches (you should already have these from doing your lower), upper vise block ($20), and basic open end wrenches, allen wrenches, etc... (which you should already have).

    Barrel nuts are either proprietary and come with your rail or they're going to be mil-spec. If they're proprietary, they come with the tool to install. If they're mil-spec, your armorers wrench that you already have from installing your castle nut on your lower is what you use.

    Installing a barrel nut, it's nice to use a torque wrench if you have one, but not really 110% necessary. If you don't have one, the mil-spec for that torque is something like 35-80 foot pounds. It's a huge range. If you can't tell that you're somewhere in that range, you may not want to be turning wrenches at all. If you're mechanically inclined whatsoever, and you don't have a torque wrench, a ratchet to drive your armorers wrench or proprietary tool is absolutely fine.

    So basically.....if you already have tools that any man should have and you already have the tools from building your lower, you only have to get a vise block (about $20). Otherwise, it's an excuse to finally get some of the tools that you should have anyway.

    Bumping for some advice. The lasts parts for my lower should be here in the next couple of days. I may start building on Thursday unless something weird happens. Any suggestions/tips for this undertaking?

    Also, uppers, I'm looking at 556/223, anything that would be recommended? I'm looking at PSA for them.
     
    Last edited:

    LPMan59

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    May 8, 2009
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    South of Heaven
    Beat me by about an hour:)

    to to be fair, I can't build Legos lolz

    and I probably spent half of the time getting the bolt catch roll pin installed
     

    LPMan59

    Grandmaster
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    May 8, 2009
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    South of Heaven
    On the first try, I shot the pivot detent off the ceiling. Second time I got it....but I was very deliberate in my movements. Haha

    the bolt catch pin took way longer than it probably should have. Out of spec pin? Lower? I know I'm not the handiest guy on earth, but that pin took a lot of whacking to get it in. :)
     

    historian

    Master
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    0   0   0
    Oct 15, 2009
    3,301
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    SD by residency, Hoosier by heart
    On the first try, I shot the pivot detent off the ceiling. Second time I got it....but I was very deliberate in my movements. Haha

    the bolt catch pin took way longer than it probably should have. Out of spec pin? Lower? I know I'm not the handiest guy on earth, but that pin took a lot of whacking to get it in. :)

    I was having a problem making sure the holes were aligned. I'm still worried that I screwed something up (other than that dagum retainer pin, still can't believe I lost it.

    ARGH!!!!
     

    Vamptepes

    Expert
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    1   0   0
    Jul 20, 2013
    859
    18
    Eagledale
    The bolt catch pin I always start with a punch,then use pliers wrapped with either tape or leather and squeeze most of the way and drive it that last bit with a punch. Only do that because it just seems to be easier with tighter roll pins.
     
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