Carbon vs Stainless

[Steve]

Contemplating getting a good all around knife for general outdoor use. 4" to 6" fixed blade. Good for camp use, field dressing game, survival situations. Currently have a Ka-bar 1211 6" and a Gerber LMF 5". Not looking for a "Rambo" knife, but something that can take a beating. Biggest question is carbon steel or stainless steel blade. Most of my current knives are stainless are I am good with them, but wondering if carbon might be the way to go for this knife. And if so, what about blade maintenance? Brands or models? Straight edge or partially serrated? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[BR8818]

Mora Garberg carbon Scandi grind super easy to sharpen.

 

[Random_71]

Carbon is normally a bit easier to touch up in the field, compared to some stainless alloys. As far as maintenance a little bit of food grade mineral oil to keep the rust at bay. Quite a few guys on knife forums strip the finishes and then blue their carbon so they can touch it up with a bottle of cold blue.

Personally for carbon, Im a fan of Kabar or Ontario. Ive beaten on both for years.

Look into a Kabar Mark 1 it is a great utility knife, 5 inch, flat grind, 1095 cro-van, single guard, coke bottle shaped handle in either Kraton (seems to soften unlike the other kabars) or Leather handle. Most are straight edge, but there are serrated ones out there. They are lighter in the hand and on the belt than your 1211 but you can still drive a nail with the pommel.

OKC, look at the Rat and TAK series (1075) and pick the specs you like.

Or there is always a midsized ESEE....

Many people love their Mora's but I've never taken the plunge.

 

[7.62]

I can't recommend ESEE enough for a great knife for an outdoorsman. As far as the model, they all have their merits. The 1095 steel is super easy to sharpen, only thing it make sure to keep dry when not using and oil to protect from rust.

 

[Taurahe]

this is a tough call... you cand spend a little or a lot. As far as the steel goes i am a big fan of 1095 carbon. easy to sharpen, and you can sharpen it with a rock if you need to. As for the knife... boy howdy, so many choices. As mentioned, the more garberg is an awesome knife for the money, but for a little bit more you can get into tops knives, Becker knife and tool, ontario, bark river etc. The Esee knives are really great too.

 

[TJ Kackowski]

A little late to the party ... hope somebody is still sober enough to understand what I'm writing.

The big brand names have all been dropped. You won't go wrong with any of them.

Stainless vs. carbon ... yeah, carbon all day long.

Straight edge vs. partially serrated ... straight edge. Why anyone would ever want a partially serrated blade is beyond my comprehension. The straight edge is the easiest to maintain in the field & gives you more usable cutting surface. A properly sharpened straight edge will cut anything that you need to cut in the field. What task do you think you'd ever need a partially serrated edge for?

 

[Trapper Jim]

A little late to the party ... hope somebody is still sober enough to understand what I'm writing.

The big brand names have all been dropped. You won't go wrong with any of them.

Stainless vs. carbon ... yeah, carbon all day long.

Straight edge vs. partially serrated ... straight edge. Why anyone would ever want a partially serrated blade is beyond my comprehension. The straight edge is the easiest to maintain in the field & gives you more usable cutting surface. A properly sharpened straight edge will cut anything that you need to cut in the field. What task do you think you'd ever need a partially serrated edge for?

Agree on carbon steel. Agree on a sharp edge. Disagree on half serrated. I have had to saw bone both solid and broken in the field and on the farm, sawing radiator hoses on the road, and disconnecting seat belts in a hurry, let alone larger green limbs from time to time. Contemporary straightedges are good for these heavy cuts once but serrated will do this multiple times before needing attention. Note the smooth edge damage from a 10 penny mail that needed cut immediately. No damage to serrated part opening time cans of peaches.

I guess it comes down to lifestyle and what tool you have in the moment. I carry a Randall Model 25 in the truck and a half serrated in my pocket.

 

[TJ Kackowski]

Agree on carbon steel. Agree on a sharp edge. Disagree on half serrated. I have had to saw bone both solid and broken in the field and on the farm, sawing radiator hoses on the road, and disconnecting seat belts in a hurry, let alone larger green limbs from time to time. Contemporary straightedges are good for these heavy cuts once but serrated will do this multiple times before needing attention. Note the smooth edge damage from a 10 penny mail that needed cut immediately. No damage to serrated part opening time cans of peaches.

I guess it comes down to lifestyle and what tool you have in the moment. I carry a Randall Model 25 in the truck and a half serrated in my pocket.

View attachment 192762

Well, there you go ... several reasons to have a partially serrated blade on your knife. Farm life sounds very dangerous. With all those items that need cutting, perhaps a dedicated fully serrated blade would serve better?

So, I do need to know ... why on earth did a 10 penny nail need to be cut immediately?

 

[Trapper Jim]

Well, there you go ... several reasons to have a partially serrated blade on your knife. Farm life sounds very dangerous. With all those items that need cutting, perhaps a dedicated fully serrated blade would serve better?

So, I do need to know ... why on earth did a 10 penny nail need to be cut immediately?

Kinda long story but the short version is on my way to 12 Mile on the curvy road of N Cty Rd 700E early one morning, We came across a doe that had her rear leg caught in the rundown barb wire fence . I didn’t really wanna be kicked to death so the safest cut for release was around a rusty nail. She was free and hopped away without thanking me.

My Cold Steel did the trick. Kinda why in pocket knives, I prefer all steel lock back instead of stamped liners.

Outdoor life may be dangerous but I’m not one to hang in a Starbucks, go to all you can eat buffet and Watch dancing with stars in my recliner.

 

[pewpew2232]

Fun thing about Esee is they have a no questions asked life time warranty. You can cut the knife in half on purpose send them a video of you doing it and they’ll still replace it. Tops is an awesome knife maker to, if they still have them The Knife Connection offers their “field buddy” in cpm3v which is a super tough semi stainless. Most carbon knives tend to have a toughness advantage while being easier to sharpen while a lot of the newer stainless steel will hold an edge forever but can be brittle and a bear to sharpen. I would take a hard look at the Esee 4 in S35vn, which I think is a well rounded balanced steel for most task. Check out Varusteleka to, their Jaakariipuukko knives are awesome.

 

[nova512]

everything is a trade off in steel what qualities do you want the most. i make knives so i pay attention to the steel im using on a knife

 

[WhitleyStu]

I've been sharpening since 1972 as a side job. Steels used in brand name knives have changed from 400 series to many of the recent "super steels" like M390. Here is a good guide to steel and their properties. Rather than choosing a brand choose a steel.

 

[Landrunner33]

Some of the newer stainless steels are excellent and easy to sharpen. AEB-l. Nitro-V. Those are both excellent options at a great price point.