Does anyone know some ball park numbers on having an 6061-T6 aluminum part made? Part would need to be milled in a CNC machine (pretty sure). It has external threads and internal threads. Would weigh maybe 4-7 ounces once done and would probably be cut from a 2"x2"x2" block. I'd be supplying drawings and a solidworks model if that'd help. Would only need one part made. Any guesses? Also, if any of you would feel like taking this project on, PM me and we can talk details. I'm in the planning stages currently, but don't want to do all of the design work if the part is going to cost $250 to make.
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Cost of having a part made
- Thread starter mikefraz
- Start date
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Machine time is expensive. I know from many past projects and commercial ventures. A one off is a lot more expensive on a price per piece than 100 or 250 pieces. Even with Solidworks there is some conversion to CAM. I have a friend in NWI who has a small machine shop. He's not a member here and is just starting in firearms. However he has been making parts for paintball guns for many years. If you're interested in seeing what he would charge let me know and I'll send you his phone number and you can take it from there.
Dan
Dan
PGRChaplain
Master
Here's a site to get a Quote, get out your Check Book.https://rapidmanufacturing.com/rapi...GoveuUg7OcsJ0riffU4vIRdhl8lg8boZn0aAmpj8P8HAQ
CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
Give us some more details. If it HAS to be done on CNC it's going to cost money. Not many "tinkerers" or home-shop type people are buying CNC machines just to mess around with, they're making money, and CNC machines aren't cheap, and the CAM software isn't cheap ($2k-20k just for a software license).
With more details I could possibly determine if I can do it for you...
With more details I could possibly determine if I can do it for you...
Sorry for the delay. Didn't see that the thread had an additional reply. Basically I'm wanting to make an adapter for an AR15 lower receiver that allows me to use stocks from the Sig Sauer MCX/MPX. I have a piston upper that has the recoil system completely contained in the upper and therefore don't need a buffer tube. Sig has an adapter that exist, but they aren't shipping it yet, and even when they do, they are only selli them with a complete upper assembly.
Here is the buffer tube eliminator from Sig(shown below). It'll be very similar to that as far as the machining operations that would need to be done. The pic. rail can be a second piece (you can buy rail sections from numerous sources, and just tap holes to screw the rails onto)
CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
For any sort of quantity that's definitely a good CNC project, low material usage and can be mostly machined all from one side. It doesn't have to be limited to CNC though; it appears that your part can be done manual as well. Does that whole thing just screw on? What holds it so it doesn't back out?
Lastly; I would recommend NOT using a separate rail section. Rail section being held on by a couple small screws will be much weaker than monolithic, machined in-place rail.
The way the Sig adapter works is that the male threaded end spins independently from the rest of the adapter. I have a fix for that, but again, I didn't want to waste time designing anything if the part was going to cost $300 to make. If you think you'd like to take on the project (for a reasonable price) I'll go ahead and make some drawings (I have Solidworks 2016 at my disposal) and give them to you and see if it's possible. I'd honestly only need one sample, though if Jollymon was interested, I'd be more than willing to let him piggyback on this effort if he paid for his part.
I am having a hard time imagining a Monolithic setup working. You will need the rail section to be vertical for the Sig stocks. So monolithic would be dang near impossible... as you need to line up the base plate and the rail section, so if you are trying to tighten it down it probably wouldnt get tight or would be not vertical. A screw would be much more feasible.
A two piece is simple... Simply have a block of aluminum with the buffer threads on one end. Tap a hole on the other side that will line up with the rail portion and have the base plate integrated into the rail portion. That way it always lines up correctly.....
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That's almost exactly what I had in mind. Again, I can model something up in a few days (whenever I can find some time) if this is feasible and not cost prohibitive to make. I can probably JB Weld this thing together, but I'd rather have something made right that will look good and last.
Edit: Honestly, I wonder if it's possible to just cut down a buffer tube and weld a cap at the end that has two threaded holes that a rail section could attach to. The base plate would keep the buffer tube from rotating and having two threaded holes for the rail would keep the rail section from swiveling. I may have been unnecessarily over complicating this whole thing. Not sure if the finished product would be aesthetically pleasing, but not sure it would be that big of a deal.
CountryBoy19
Grandmaster
By monolithic I meant not a separate rail section held on by screws. Which would be inherently weak for a stock mounting point.
The picture appears to show a monolithic setup.
Furthermore, I'm not familiar with the Sig offerings so I wasn't aware that the male threaded part turns independent of the rest; that being said, that sounds like the best way to go about this but it may take a little creativity to figure out how they made that piece function like that. I can't even see a place they could get a wrench on that to turn it unless it's done from inside etc.
OP, I don't presently have the time to take on any manual machining and I don't currently have a functional shop. I recently moved and the new shop doesn't have electrical to all the machines yet.
