Electric water heater questions.

[CountryBoy19]

All the other numbers are basically just different methods of averaging.

Say what? Could you clarify what you mean by this? Because generally in the electrical industry the numbers are as follows, 120/240 at the pole/transformer, 115/230 at the panel, & 110/220 at the connection point... Are you saying that isn't accurate and "the 110/220 & 115/230 value are just different ways of figuring the voltage value"?

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

It's been going up over the years. Last time I measured at the outlet, I got 127VRMS, which is why I started buying 130V light bulbs. I use a top line meter, cause that's the kinda guy I am. Bet I have more digits than you

 

[skulhedface]

Say what? Could you clarify what you mean by this? Because generally in the electrical industry the numbers are as follows, 120/240 at the pole/transformer, 115/230 at the panel, & 110/220 at the connection point... Are you saying that isn't accurate and "the 110/220 & 115/230 value are just different ways of figuring the voltage value"?

Just saying for these purposes the specific number is irrelevant. The manufacturer probably didn't design it to be plugged into the top of the pole. The different numbers are used interchangeably in the field, kind of an electrical close enough. Not an EE, but I am a EET that's been making the EEs stuff actually work for half my life. Just saying the functional difference between 115 and 127 (220-240) is negligible and wasn't accounted for at the manufacturer when it was decided that the heating element was a 5000w, not a 6100w.

 

[skulhedface]

This might help:

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

I just have a little issue putting 120V bulbs on a 127V circuit. I know they won't blow right out, but they won't last as long. I may be an EE, but I have a truckload of common sense, as well. Maybe a bit rare in my line of work, in fact there's no maybe about it from what I've seen. These people are insane.

 

[Brian Ski]

Say what? Could you clarify what you mean by this? Because generally in the electrical industry the numbers are as follows, 120/240 at the pole/transformer, 115/230 at the panel, & 110/220 at the connection point... Are you saying that isn't accurate and "the 110/220 & 115/230 value are just different ways of figuring the voltage value"?

You should not have that much of a voltage drop through your system. It used to be 110 volt in the 60s and earlier. I think the 70s it was called 115 volts. Then in the late 80s? it got bumped to 120 volt. I have been checking with a good meter, most of what we have around here (now a days) is a pretty solid 125 volts. Measured at the receptacle.

 

[Whitsettd8]

I vote for thermostat failing.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I vote for thermostat failing.

Somebody didnt read the whole thread. (hint: see post#19)

 

[CHCRandy]

I had an AO Smith that had run about 17 years and finally gave up the ghost. The one I replaced it with, I've had to put in two new lower elements in the last couple of years. I keep one on hand now. Most disappointed.

6193W is based on the 9.3Ω resistance and 240VRMS, but 9.3 may not be quite accurate. To really measure resistances that low requires a little more than just sticking an ohmmeter on them. It does give you a pretty good estimate, though.

Sounds like me. My AO Smith was awesome for 16 years and blew up. I replaced with a new Whirlpool from Lowes, 2 months later lower element failed. They sent me to Lowes to get an element and replaced. I am pretty sure it is about to blow again. When I removed the old element....the tubing had ruptured and the wire filament was hanging out. I am going to replace it with another AO Smith. Was your replacement a Whirlpool?

 

[looney2ns]

Did you check to make sure the bottom element wasn't covered by sediment.

 

[K_W]

Did you check to make sure the bottom element wasn't covered by sediment.

Not yet. It is working now, will tear into it after I finish some other projects.