Few questions about Aluma Hyde.

[ctbreitwieser]

I've ordered some parts for an AR build and I'm using a FDE stock and pistol grip.
I thought it would look cool to paint the ejection port cover, and all parts that can be seen in the lower parts kit (selector, bolt release, takedown pins, mag catch, ect.) in a FDE as well.

Im looking at using Brownells Aluma-Hyde, but Im not sure if just going to rub off. Anyone ever use it, and have a problem with it coming off of these parts?

 

[EPD1102]

Brownell's Aluma-Hyde is very durable. I've used it on a lot of shotguns, stainless AR barrels, and other things. The most important things are to de-grease the gun very well beforehand using acetone and letting it have three to four days to "cure" after you paint it. Good luck.

 

[shooter521]

Brownell's Aluma-Hyde is very durable. I've used it on a lot of shotguns, stainless AR barrels, and other things. The most important things are to de-grease the gun very well beforehand using acetone and letting it have three to four days to "cure" after you paint it. Good luck.

All of this.

The Alumahyde II camo pattern on my Recon Carbine has held up very well for several years now.

 

[IndyGunworks]

ill third it... its decent. there is better, but harder stuff to apply. for the cost, its a pretty good product.

 

[ctbreitwieser]

Thanks for the input. I thought about using duracoat but their just a few small parts and its pretty expensive, and as mentioned, harder to apply. Ill definitely go this route then. What's the best way to tell when you've degreased good enough? I've read about degreasing but never understood how to tell if its good enough.

Edit: Is there anything as far as prep work that could help it stick like some light sanding or steel wool first?

 

[IndyGunworks]

If the parts are parkerized (safety for sure) then just degreasing. if they are blued then blasting w/ 80-100 grit media at around 50 psi or so then degreasing will give the most durable finish.

degreasing is just getting the oil out of the poors. the best way to do this is to heat your parts up to around 200 degrees then let them cool, this sort of forces the oil out of the poors. then spray/rinse them w/ a non residue degreaser. I use acetone. if you really want to be sure they are degreesed let the parts soak in acetone for 20 minutes.

acetone can be bought in the paint department of lowes or home depot for around 12 dollars a quart.

 

[IndyGunworks]

If you dont have access to a blaster, then scuffing them up w/ 400 grit paper will do nicely.

 

[ctbreitwieser]

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the help. I dont have access to a blaster so ill probably be using the sand paper.

 

[Jon17]

ill third it... its decent. there is better, but harder stuff to apply. for the cost, its a pretty good product.

What's the best? Most durable?

 

[IndyGunworks]

What's the best? Most durable?

debatable. If we are assuming a finish that one can reasonably apply themselves at home, probably cerekote, but its a major PITA to get it perfect.

second on that list i would put moly resin which is what i typically used. It doesnt require mixing w/ a hardner, but is still a bake on finish. It goes out super thin so it gives a great "natral" finished look and doesnt look painty. The downfall is it does quickly show wear marks in areas where metal rubs on metal something cerekote takes longer to do.

Duracoat would be next, but it goes on thick and looks "painty" to me. I dont use duracoat anymore at all because i like the moly resin so much and it produces more proffesional results for me.

alumahyde would be right there with duracoat, and guncoat i think is pretty much the same thing just w/ a differant name.

Of course none of the finishes can shake a stick at any sort of "dip" coating like nitride.


The kicker to all of this is parkerizing. If you put on duracoat, cerekote, or moly resin, in a very fine gradual mannor is gets "absorbed" into the parkerizing allow you to put more on, but still maintain the durability that parkerizing has to offer. Its really the perfect storm. you can get the color choices of a spray coating w/ the durability of parkerizing.

and last but not least: this is my opinion based on my actual experience so other may disagree with me but i think most who have handled and applied all of these products will probably agree with me to some degree.

 

[wetidlerjr]

...What's the best way to tell when you've degreased good enough? I've read about degreasing but never understood how to tell if its good enough...

When you have decided it is "good enough"; do it one more time.

 

[EPD1102]

Thanks for the input. I thought about using duracoat but their just a few small parts and its pretty expensive, and as mentioned, harder to apply. Ill definitely go this route then. What's the best way to tell when you've degreased good enough? I've read about degreasing but never understood how to tell if its good enough.

Edit: Is there anything as far as prep work that could help it stick like some light sanding or steel wool first?

I don't think you need to put too much thought into degreasing. I usually wipe everything down really well with a paper towel soaked in acetone. That has always been good enough t make it stick and hold well. If the parts were really oily or greasy beforehand, I might wipe them down twice.
As far as scuffing the parts up to hold the paint, it won't hurt to do that but it's probably not necessary. I have painted quite a few shotguns for guys on the P.D., including several older glossy blued guns. The paint has always worn very well and I never did any scuffing of the metal beforehand. It helps to make the old Remington 870s a little more abuse-able. They never rust again where they're painted.
I think you'll like the product a lot. Please just make sure to leave the parts alone for 3 or 4 days after you paint them. This is very important. The paint has a long cure time and it will look dry within a short time. LET IT CURE if you want it to look good and last. Good luck.