Humbled by a Snubbie

[mikerccie]

I'm not a really great shot but I do OK.

I jumped at the chance to grab an S&W 640 (no dash, no lock) - I've been somewhat lusting after an older 38 snub for a while and when one popped up in the INGO classifieds I had to jump.

I put 140 rounds through the little guy today and I'm shocked how hard I have to work and how much I have to concentrate to get even moderately decent hits.

I think this will become my therapy/training gun - when I feel like I'm an OK shot with this revolver I think I'll have moved up a "class" in trigger control.

 

[KG1]

Snubbies deffinitly take alittle work especially when firing DA. The key is you have to understand their intended purpose of being an up close and personal type of firearm. They are not designed to be long range tack drivers. I have a j-frame that I carry at times and when I practice I stick within 7-10 yard ranges and as far as sight alignment goes I don't really concentrate on useing the rear groove. Just mostly focus on placing the front sight in center mass on the target and practice trigger control. That seems to work out pretty well for me. Have fun and don't give up.

 

[.45 Dave]

I fired my FEG .380 at 50 yards at Wilbur Wright and didn't hit a thing (except the berm) and I am a fair shot. I know its not a snubbie but same problem with the trigger pull, but I wouldn't hesitate to use at 10 yards or less. BTW I did have several rounds on paper and 2 in the black from using my 7 1/2 inch Uberti. Short barrels simply aren't designed for long distance work.

 

[fennsta_78]

Aren't snubbies, belly shooter guns for close combat?

 

[Slow Hand]

I carry a 642, whichis the hammerless alloy framed Smith. It's trigger is smooth, but kind of heavy. I do good to hit a paper plate at about 20 yards and I've been shooting DA revolvers for 15+ years! Because of their small size, J frames have heavier springs in them for reliable ignition. I know a lot of folk hate lasers, but I put a set of Crimson Trace grips on mine and it really helps with dry fire, because I can see exactly where it's pointed throughout the trigger pull. My best advice is to do lots of dry fire and littel live fire. These guns are light and hard to get a good grip on, so if you do lots of live fire, it's easy to develop a bad flinch.

Doug K

 

[Steve]

Don't be to hard on yourself. Snubbies were designed for close quarter work, 3-10 feet. Just concentrate on pointing rather than aiming at center mass of the BG or target. Snubbies are great for CC and "instinct" shooting not OC and distance shots. When you really need one, they are your best friend. Been toting one for years, so I might be a wee bit bias.

Don't drink the "I've got 17 rds I can lay on 'em" Kool Aid. Think sniper, 1 shot, 1 kill. That's all it takes.

 

[sbcman]

I know the feeling- defintely a learning curve to snubs that can be lost easily without practice.

I was humbled myself at a training one time with my M&P 340. At seven yards I was sending out nice, big 3" groups. The instructor said, "let me show you something," and had me just hold the revolver with sights on target while he pulled the trigger. The results astounded myself and everyone in the class- a five shot clover-leaf no more than 1/2".

I learned a lot that day.

Oh, and congrats on the very nice Smith!

 

[NIFT]

Snubbies were designed for close quarter work, 3-10 feet. Snubbies are great for CC and "instinct" shooting not OC and distance shots. When you really need one, they are your best friend.

An action job can really help a snubby. Replace the rebound slide spring (talking Smith & Wesson, here) with a lighter one, but don't touch the mainspring! Round, smooth, and polish the trigger, and put some good rubber grips on it (Hogue or Crimson Trace with laser.) Those modifications will help a bunch.

Also, a snubby can be shot from a pocket or from a purse without jamming like semi-autos, and snubbys can do contact shots; whereas, a semi-auto will, likely, be pushed out of battery and misfire. Like Steve says, snubbies are meant for close range--10 feet max.

 

[Suprtek]

Like others have already said, different weapons have different purposes. I've carried a .38 snubby for years. I don't expect to be able to hit a bulls-eye from 20 yards, but I'm 100% confident I can hit center mass from across a room. I do own various other handguns that I carry occasionally, but I always go back to my trusty .38 for EDC. To me the main advantages are comfort, rock solid reliability, simplicity (nothing to think about, just pull the trigger) and concealability while still having enough of a punch to get the job done.

I understand the comfort level some may have with more capacity, however I tend to believe that if I need more than 5 rounds to get to cover I'm probably screwed anyway.

 

[ArmedProgrammer]

I carry a 642, whichis the hammerless alloy framed Smith. It's trigger is smooth, but kind of heavy. I do good to hit a paper plate at about 20 yards and I've been shooting DA revolvers for 15+ years! Because of their small size, J frames have heavier springs in them for reliable ignition. I know a lot of folk hate lasers, but I put a set of Crimson Trace grips on mine and it really helps with dry fire, because I can see exactly where it's pointed throughout the trigger pull. My best advice is to do lots of dry fire and littel live fire. These guns are light and hard to get a good grip on, so if you do lots of live fire, it's easy to develop a bad flinch.

Doug K

This is exactly true for something like the LCP as well... have a friend that ran a CT laser on her LCP and it made a HUGE difference. You could see the flinch as it was happening.

 

[ghitch75]

seen Bob Munden hit a balloon at 200y with a 2" 38......i'v hit a 12" steel plate at 100y with my 380 mustang....

 

[DeadeyeChrista'sdad]

My charter snobby was my edc for years. Recently had personalguard do a pink duracote on it for my eldest daughter. It's that dependable.

 

[snowman46919]

If you do some dry firing you can get a feel for where the trigger will sit right before it falls. On my 101 I can hear the click of the cylinder retention device (because I dont know the actual name) click into place about 1/16th of an inch of trigger pull before the hammer drops. The pull is also the lightest at this point so it is extremely easy to hold at this point.

 

[subtlesixer03]

If you do some dry firing you can get a feel for where the trigger will sit right before it falls. On my 101 I can hear the click of the cylinder retention device (because I dont know the actual name) click into place about 1/16th of an inch of trigger pull before the hammer drops. The pull is also the lightest at this point so it is extremely easy to hold at this point.

This is exactly what i do with my 642i. Though mine does has a port and xs night sight dot on it. It crazy accurate if i really pull slow. Im getting to the point that i can do this automaticlly now. I carry it often and i actually have a newer one on layaway so i can safe it since its rare as hell from what ive been told. Im goona get that one magna ported and have big dot set up put on it. Its also a 357mag instead of a 38+p

 

[RetDep310]

Snubbies are great...ya just got to own one! As some of the others have said, dry fire it as much as you can, and a set of Hogue Monogrips help as far as range shooting. They are a little big if you pocket carry. A recent article in Guns & Ammo magazine did a report on the Apex J-Frame Duty/Carry Spring Kit. It replaces the main and rebound springs to smooth, but not lighten, the trigger pull (ApexTactical.com). Stick with it, and you will be able to hit 25 yard targets, and the occasional 100 yard steel target.