Repairing a buggered screw

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  • rob63

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    There isn't too much I can contribute to the gunsmithing forum, but somewhere along the line someone explained to me how to repair buggered screws so I thought I could share this. Obviously, it is easier to simply replace a buggered screw, but there are those occasions where they just are not easy to find.

    Here is my starting point:

    2rcwnxz.jpg


    The first step is to hold it against something solid, and then gently tap it with a hammer. The goal is to push as much of the metal back into the original position on the head of the screw as you possibly can.

    16gac5f.jpg


    Here is my result after hammering.

    ztyr1u.jpg


    Unless you are better at it than me, you will have at least a little bit of "flashing", for lack of a better word, that remains above the original profile of the screw. There isn't really any alternative but to use a small file to carefully remove it. Use a small file because you don't want to accidentally file too much of the screw away.

    vwzcj5.jpg


    This is the result after filing.

    15mdy03.jpg


    You now just need to refinish the screw to match the original finish. I don't have a fancy bluing tank or anything, so I do it the old fashioned way. I use this product to brown the screw first. It takes several days of applying a coat and then letting it set.

    2j1twud.jpg


    Next, you boil it in distilled water to turn the brown into blue. Here is the finished screw. You can achieve a deeper blue by doing more coats of the browning solution, but this is from an old gun and I wanted to match the worn finish of the gun.

    2chuxab.jpg


    Close up comparison of the buggered screw and the finished repair. If you are a perfectionist you can also use a file to true up the sides of the slot while you are at it, the eye won't be able to detect a slot that has been enlarged a little bit. I didn't do that on this screw though.

    zyal38.jpg
     

    Hop

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    That looks very good. I need to be more careful with my mil-surp rifles or I'll be doing this to my screws.
     

    Hop

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    You can thread a nut all the way up under the head and hold it in a table vice or use a soft aluminum jaw vice. You can work on a small booger with a punch.

    I try to use the correct sized screwdriver but there's always something that slips when you least expect it. :ugh:
     
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    churchmouse

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    That looks very good. I need to be more careful with my mil-surp rifles or I'll be doing this to my screws.

    I stepped up and bought a proper screw driver tip set out of brownells. There is a good selection width length to get the right blade in the work at hand. They do work.
     

    actaeon277

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    And the nut will straighten the threads when you take off it the do get boogered up.

    I was going to recommend that.

    In fact, if you ever have to cut a screw/bolt shorter, put 2 nuts on it first. That way, after cutting, you can back the nut off, and it will dress the threads.
     

    churchmouse

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    I was going to recommend that.

    In fact, if you ever have to cut a screw/bolt shorter, put 2 nuts on it first. That way, after cutting, you can back the nut off, and it will dress the threads.

    Do this all the time. Then clean the edge of the threads to create a start point and bingo.
     

    Cree

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    Nicely done! Laurel Mountain is good stuff! It can actually return that screw to the original brown, rust color. The blue color is the initial phase. Allow it to progress to a rust and then lightly remove the scale and the brown color underneath will be revealed. A little hot water to provide some humidity helps accelerate the process. I used LM to rust brown the blades on this kraut cutter I made a few years back.

    7912233_orig.jpg

    Andy Cree
     
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