Rookie Reloading Question?

[Shive.Justin]

So I got my first reloading manual for Christmas, the Lyman 49th edition, and was reading it last night and it said to use the powder that was listed for each type of round being reloaded. My question is this: Does it make a difference as to which powder is being used?

Please forgive me for my lack of intelligence, but I'm just getting into the reloading scene and I'm trying to learn a whole lot before I actually start reloading. Thanks in advance.

 

[Broom_jm]

That's a pretty common question for someone just getting into reloading. The powders listed are the ones that were found suitable by Lyman for that cartridge/bullet combination. They are listed from fastest to slowest-burning. They will also usually indicate which powder is most likely to be accurate with that combination, based on their observations.

I typically choose a powder from the middle on down, based on what 2 or more manuals recommend. Also, there is a lot information listed in the first few chapters of the manual. As boring as that stuff can be, I do encourage folks to read and understand all of it. If nothing else, it will give you a better understanding of how and why a gun goes, "BANG!" when you pull the trigger. That will go a long way toward keeping you safe.

 

[rockhopper46038]

The short answer is powder matters. Aszerigan here in the Site Advertisers section (ProFire Arms and Supplies) conducts very good classes on reloading that you may wish to consider, and he's not that far from you. Different people choose different powders for the same calibers and bullet weights even, depending on what they want out of their particular load. Some people try to consolidate on one powder for multiple calibers because of convenience. Some want to use the most economical powder, even if it might be a tad "smoky". There is always something to learn, but BE SAFE! If you use a powder/bullet/OAL combination that is listed in your Lyman book, and start with the lightest listed powder charge, you will have started in a good place. Taking a class will also help you answer some of your own questions while getting some hands on practical experience.

 

[BGDave]

All good advice. Only thing to add is I try to use a slower powder that fills the case to a point that a double load is impossible.

 

[Shive.Justin]

Thanks for the advice and insight guys! I have been reading the front of the Lyman manual for the last couple days. Although some would consider it boring, I find it very interesting.

 

[NinnJinn]

All good advice. Only thing to add is I try to use a slower powder that fills the case to a point that a double load is impossible.

Ditto!!! Its Alliant Unique powder for me!!!

 

[ZombieApocolypse]

All good advice. Only thing to add is I try to use a slower powder that fills the case to a point that a double load is impossible.

Im also a pre-reloading learner .... I was under the impression the slow burning powders were for rifles and werent supposed to be used in handgun ammo? (maybe i have it mixed up and the slow burn is for handguns...)

 

[SSGSAD]

Im also a pre-reloading learner .... I was under the impression the slow burning powders were for rifles and werent supposed to be used in handgun ammo? (maybe i have it mixed up and the slow burn is for handguns...)

Most of the time slow burn powders are used for Magnum loads... Unique, is a good all around powder ...

 

[Broom_jm]

Im also a pre-reloading learner .... I was under the impression the slow burning powders were for rifles and werent supposed to be used in handgun ammo? (maybe i have it mixed up and the slow burn is for handguns...)

"Slow" is a relative term. A very fast-burning rifle powder, like 4198, would be too slow for most pistol cartridges. The slowest pistol powders, like H110 or 2400, are considered quite fast, when used in a rifle case. For the most part, powders are really meant for rifle or pistol, and would be consider slow or fast, within each separate spectrum. There are a few powders that cross over, providing good performance in a pistol and reduced charges (typically with cast bullets) in a rifle. The best known example is Unique...which some will tell you is how it got its name.

To maximize performance, what you really want is a powder charge that provides a near 100% fill rate, without being too slow. It is my personal rule to NEVER use a powder that provides less than 60% fill rate. With some powders, it is flat-out dangerous to do so, but the real reason I choose 60% as a minimum is that if I were to accidentally double-charge a case, it would flow out over the mouth of the case and be an obvious mistake. Far better to find out this way than with a blown case head, a ruined gun...or worse!

 

[ruger44srh]

All good advice and and the same with primers. They have different burn rates and it matters what brand is used with what powder charge. Makes different chamber pressures.

 

[Aszerigan]

They have different burn rates and it matters what brand is used with what powder charge. Makes different chamber pressures.

Going to have to disagree with you there. Primers are about the only thing that's interchangeable in the field of reloading. Unlike smokeless powder with is flammable, primers are explosive, which doesn't allow for much variance in their burn rate. (compared to powders - I know there is a substantial variance in explosives burn rate too, but I'm not well versed enough in that field to compare the two)

Powder weights, bullet weights, etc are substantially more important. The major difference in primers is the cap thickness, i.e., striking pressure for detonation. As long as you're comparing primers in the same vein - small pistol vs small pistol - then there shouldn't be a substantial pressure difference in case pressures when changing brands.

 

[U.S. Patriot]

I have the Lyman manual as well. It is good in some aspects, but lacking in others I think. I chose my powder by doing a lot of research and asking questions. I use Hodgdon powder for both pistol and rifle loads, I use their load data.