Which Motor Oil To Use?

[4651feeder]

Have a 2015 Toyota 2.7L with 26,000 miles that calls for 0-20W full synthetic. Mistakenly purchased Valvoline full synthetic 5-20W for it today at Meijer on sale. So as I'm putting that in the garage cabinet, I spy a fresh unopened jug of Mobile 1 full synthetic 0-20W High Mileage (75000> miles) that I apparently don't remember buying. While neither of these oils would be considered ideal for this application; would I be doing the engine harm by using either of them?

 

[boogieman]

Neither is going to hurt it. The 5-20 will be a little thicker than the 0-20 and the high mileage oil will more than likely have some kind of extra detergent in it. If it doesn't hurt higher mileage cars then it won't hurt yours. If it was me I would use the Mobil-1 over Valvoline.

 

[GodFearinGunTotin]

I've never owned a vehicle that used 0 weight oil. But all of the cars/trucks Ive had usually lists several ranges of oil weights that are acceptable. Typically, they call for the higher weights in warmer weather. For example, off the top of my head, GM calls for 5w30 for my truck but says 10w30 is acceptable, especially if you're anticipating warmer weather. You double check your manual and see if something similar is spec'd for yours.

 

[BugI02]

Many current generation engines which have incorporated low internal friction as a guiding principle in the design call for zero weight full synthetic. I assume this pertains to acheiving all the benefits of the LIF design. Some of these designs are pretty close to a dry sump lubrication system in design and the lower viscosity number may relate to required increased pumping efficiency/minimizing foaming

 

[PaulF]

The "best practice" is to use a motor oil that meets the manufacturer specs exactly.

Your car has a powertrain warranty, maybe even out to 100,000 miles. If you ever have a high-mileage engine failure you may be asked to provide oil change records to "prove" you maintained your vehicle to a reasonable degree. I have no idea how Toyota warranty works, but VW would likely latch on to "incorrect oil specification" to deny warranty coverage for a higher-mileage engine failure.

Engine oil is cheap insurance, so it's always best to use the correct stuff...however, 5w20 isn't likely to do damage to your engine. Engine oil changes viscosity with temperature, as it gets warmer it gets "thinner". Your vehicle is designed to accept oil that has a "winter" viscosity of "20". If the spec includes 20-weight (winter) oil, it shouldn't have an issue with 5-weight oil.

Still...I think it's better to use the exact oil called for by the manufacturer.

 

[SMiller]

Run them through it, no big deal.

 

[thunderchicken]

Manufacturers have made serious design changes and electronics have become so sensitive, using the wrong weight oil can cause the pcm/ecu to set a check engine light. GM products that have 0w20 DEXOS on the oil fill cap are especially sensitive. I have seen TSB's from GM from customers using the wrong oil. The old days of having a range of oil recommendations based on typical driving conditions are pretty much gone. The clearances have gotten so tight using thicker oil can cause oil starvation, because it doesn't flow properly. I have seen issues with Dodge chargers, Toyota Camry's, Ford Fusions and Chevy trucks/ vans from using the wrong oil. I highly recommend using what is indicated on the fill cap.

 

[Bigtanker]

Put half of the high mileage and half of the 5/20 in. That with give you 2.5-20. It will be fine.

 

[Bennettjh]

I'd stick with the 0w20. That's what viscosity the engine is built for. The high mileage part wouldn't hurt anything. Mobil 1 makes good stuff. I definitely wouldn't use the wrong Valvoline.YMMV.

 

[4651feeder]

Appreciate the replies, thx.

 

[amboy49]

I've never felt it necessary to use a synthetic motor oil. However, the purchase of my most recent vehicle makes me potentially consider paying the extra money. I don't know if the prior owner used synthetic or not as I purchased the car (a 2011 Camaro) from a dealer.

If synthetic was or was not used before is it important to stay with it ?

For fuller disclosure, this will be a car that will be driven somewhat sparingly and not at all in the winter.

 

[HoughMade]

It's summer. The "5" doesn't even come into play. That's the winter rating. Even if it did, it's no big deal.

 

[bacon#1]

I would say put in what they say to put in. They spent alot of money on engineering and testing. I like my mobile one synthetics, and filters. Just throwing this out there, bought a k&n oil filter once. Where they weld on the fancy nut it failed. Thankfully I caught it before it lost all the oil.

 

[Bigtanker]

I've never felt it necessary to use a synthetic motor oil. However, the purchase of my most recent vehicle makes me potentially consider paying the extra money. I don't know if the prior owner used synthetic or not as I purchased the car (a 2011 Camaro) from a dealer.

If synthetic was or was not used before is it important to stay with it ?

For fuller disclosure, this will be a car that will be driven somewhat sparingly and not at all in the winter.

You can switch to synthetic without issue. Older cars, pre 95 or so, the synthetic can cause some leaks. If your motor is burning oil, the rate at which it is burned will go up. Other than that, you will be fine.

 

[Caleb]

0w-20?

Cars I used to own used 10w-30, my Honda uses 5w-20...never heard of cars using 0w-20

 

[BiscuitsandGravy]

How about 0w40 and every 10k per manual. I've switched to Valv Plat Syn from M1. Read some good articles about Valv Plat Syn. YMMV and I'm NOT trying to start a this vs. that oil discussion.

Nice that the filter is now on top with a cartridge instead of traditional spin-on underneath. Also switched to a Mity-Vac to vac the oil out of the dip stick tube. I'm lazy.

I would avoid the 'high mileage' M1. My father tried it in his Olds Bravada SUV and it did not like it. Its overhead cam and it made all kinds of racket. He went back to straight M1 and noise went away. YMMV.

 

[eldirector]

On these newer cars, I run what is specified. So, if it calls for 0W-20 full synthetic, that's what it gets. I want my vehicles to last, so I don't cheap out or cut corners on maintenance.

On my older (and that means 1980 and older) stuff, it gets what I think it needs. My tired old AMC 304 gets 10W-40, as that quiets down the lifters and brings the oil pressure up enough to register on the gauge.

 

[KLB]

Head over to the Bob is the Oil Guy forum and ask them. They are oil geeks. You can search and see if anyone has used the combination of your engine and oils and see the results of used oil analyses people have posted.