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  1. #1
    SSE
    SSE is offline
    Plinker

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    Who has auto-annealling machine

    Hi guys
    I have seen the automated machines that anneal your brass but I am way too cheap to buy one.
    I know you can do it by hand and that is fine for everybody that wants to do it.
    I would like to rent or pay someone with the machine.
    Mostly 308
    Anybody out there got one ?

  2. #2
    Expert Clay Pigeon's Avatar

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    It might help to post what city or county you live in.
    "Too much agreement kills a chat." ~Eldridge Cleaver

  3. #3
    Expert

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    Giraud machine with induction annealer (Annie) and 3 I built myself.
    I don't use flame annealers, not enough control on fine brass.

    I also have a Rockwell hardness tester, and I can do cross sectioning, sample mounting and micrographs if what's what you are into.

    If you haven't beat the living crap out of the brass it can be recovered between 85% & 95% without expensive micrograph samples.

    ----------

    If you want a low budget, but dead accurate annealing method,
    Lead pot, an accurate way to measure temp, and a media like glass beads or small steel shot.
    With a paddle of some kind, with proper size holes to wedge the brass in, you can do half dozen at a time.
    This allows for proper proper time factor along with precise temp control, an extremely accurate anneal this way with a little practice.

    If you are interested in this I can tell you how to determine the correct time in the media without time consuming and expensive micrographs.

    ----------

    What are you talking about for piece count?
    Last edited by JeepHammer; 04-14-2019 at 17:47.

  4. #4
    SSE
    SSE is offline
    Plinker

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    WOW !
    Sounds like you know a whole lot more about this than I do.
    I have tried the propane torch route and had too much inconsistency.
    The lead pot way sounds interesting.
    I have most of my 308 loaded now but this fall or late summer I will have about 1000 rds that will need it and a few hundred in other calibers.
    I will most likely just toss my old 223 cases

  5. #5
    I still care....Really
    churchmouse's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Pigeon View Post
    It might help to post what city or county you live in.
    H did not read your post apparently.
    AKA..Thor. Odin son. God of thunder.
    But you can call me John.....Force.

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  6. #6
    Expert Clay Pigeon's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by churchmouse View Post
    H did not read your post apparently.
    LOL, all is good in the world, the Master of editing, rockwell hardness testing, cross sectioning cases mounting samples, micrographs, microscopes and silver soldering has posted.
    All's well in the annealing hemisphere. Sad he removed the best part of his post.
    Me, I sold my brother my half of the Giraud propane annealer we bought years back and I bought another one of those inaccurate Annealeez propane flame annealers and for some reason I can anneal little thin shouldered cut off Hornet cases and neck them down without issues.
    45+ years of reloading and I have yet to have someone even mention having brass micro-graphed after being manufactured. Made me laugh so hard I almost slipped a little pee.
    "Too much agreement kills a chat." ~Eldridge Cleaver

  7. #7
    Premium Case Lube
    BadBrassSauce.com's Avatar

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    Iíve got an automated annealing setup in Fishers and am glad to anneal at a fee per piece of brass. I use 750 tempilaq INSIDE the case neck. Glad to also accept trades as payment!
    Premium case lube made in Fishers, Indiana.
    Now offering annealing services.
    www.Facebook.com/BadBrassSauce
    www.BadBrassSauce.com

  8. #8
    Expert

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSE View Post
    WOW !
    Sounds like you know a whole lot more about this than I do.
    I have tried the propane torch route and had too much inconsistency.
    The lead pot way sounds interesting.
    I have most of my 308 loaded now but this fall or late summer I will have about 1000 rds that will need it and a few hundred in other calibers.
    I will most likely just toss my old 223 cases
    Let's let Clay Pigeon get his insults out since he's never heard of hardness testing or micrographs even though AMP and other machine makers advertise the testing for your specific brass.
    He's dead set on stalking my posts and creating as many problems as possible, and he just has to get bored before he goes away.

    If you undertake annealing on your own,
    The best advise I can give is don't use a pinpoint 'Jet', oxygen engorged torch tip.
    Your brass will overheat before you reach the time factor required for a deep, reconstituted anneal.

    The lead pot for heat, and a dry media allow both for precise heat control, and the time factor required.
    High end electro-magnetic annealing units are incorporating a power taper off for this very reason, to allow the time factor to be reached before the brass overheats.

    Factory flame annealing uses a row of fan tips on their torches, and roll the brass along a row of nozzles to provide time at temp.
    There are some YouTube videos showing both lower power electro-magnetic with long coils for time, and rows of gas nozzles for time.
    It's not a new concept in the science, but it's apparently new to a lot of home annealers.

    I suggest you look up cartridge brass annealing on some of the education websites, many collages have explanations of how they scientifically approach annealing, and it's not some random guy on the internet...
    Pay particular attention to the time factor many of them state, and how they check their results.
    That is if you have an interest in education of the process...

    I might also at least listen to someone that produces cartridge cases from scratch, including heat treating of the brass for forming.
    You don't have to take my word for it, again, some research is needed to verify what I write...
    But keep in mind that I do produce brass, which is why I've studied the process & own the equipment.






  9. #9
    Expert

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    Another tip would be to take advise from someone that builds his own annealing units,
    And puts together tutorials for others to build their own units from dead common parts...

    This top picture is a constantly 'On' unit that heats a metal die (an old rifle chamber) and the brass is simply dropped in and timed, pulled back out.
    It's fairly quick, but dangerous since the metal die stays about 700*F.



    This is just a $40 China surplus induction driver off eBay getting assembled.
    It's a tubing type so coolant can be pumped through it to keep the coil from eventually melting.



    This is a solid wire coil with non-conductive, non-magnetic ceramic insert to keep the brass centered & and to keep it from shorting coils out.

    Last edited by JeepHammer; 04-15-2019 at 00:34.

  10. #10
    Grandmaster Rookie's Avatar

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    Just ignore clay pigeon. Sooner or later, the mods will get tired of his insults and show him the door.


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