There are a lot of rumors floating around that are incorrect and truths that a lot of people don't know regarding russian ammo. Keep in mind that there are 2 parts that will affect your AR. The composition of the case and the composition of the bullet itself.
https://www.theboxotruth.com/educati...mo-in-an-ar15/
http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
https://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=268
Because a steel case does not flex like a brass case when under pressure, it does not create as good of a gas seal. This means that steel cases will allow a thin layer of carbon to build up on the chamber walls. If you continue shooting steel, this generally is not an issue. However, if you start shooting steel and then switch to brass, you WILL have a stuck case when the brass flexes during firing and "welds" itself into place on that carbon.
When using steel cased, it is highly advisable that you clean your chamber before and after shooting to guarantee that the chamber is carbon free. I have observed that the guns that tend to run steel cased ammo better are the guns with the looser 5.56 chambers. Guns with tighter chambers tend to have problems running this ammo due to the carbon build up causing additional difficulty in extracting the steel cases.
The bullet composition is a separate issue. Although most Russian ammo uses a bi-metal jacketed bullet, not all steel case ammo does. Hornady makes steel cased training ammo that uses a traditional copper jacketed bullet. The bi-metal jacketed bullets are often seen as less than ideal because the bi-metal jacket is slightly harder therefore causing somewhat accelerated wear on the barrel. I have seen a couple of tests on this over the last 15 years or so. It seems that if you keep your barrel cool while shooting, this is less of an issue. But if you heat your barrel up hot, the additional wear is accelerated. However, as stated in the thread above, by the time your barrel is worn out you have often saved enough money on the cheaper ammo to pay for a couple of new barrels.
As long as your rifle can function reliably with the cheaper ammo and the lower accuracy is still acceptable for your purposes, go for it. In reality, it is more of a personal preference thing.
[video=youtube;P5ZB3UfG960]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5ZB3UfG960[/video]
[video=youtube;Qpo9rknFDkU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qpo9rknFDkU&feature=youtu.be[/video]
[video=youtube;napCSMHHe_w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=napCSMHHe_w&feature=youtu.be[/video]
With companies like Tula now coating in polymer rather than lacquer is anyone still having issues of rounds getting stuck in chamber of AR platform? i want to make a build that can shoot cheap steel ammo.
Let it me get this right as so I can understand. You use inferior opposing interest countries cheap crap ammunition in who knows what as a a homebrew high power salvage parts rifle where the chamber that has to deal with + 50,000 psi 3 inches from your forehead and then complain about it not working right as you litter the ground with worthless rusting steel that sportsman and conservationist has to muddle through the residual crap. Just asking.
I didn't see the OP saying he doesn't police up his "brass" (steel). Making assumptions much? I also didn't see him complaining, or mentioning anything about "salvage parts". He was just asking a question. Just how high is that horse in your avatar anyhow? Guessing it must be about 40 hands.