1-2-3 Block Brake?

[engineerpower]

So I was looking at a 1-2-3 block last night, and realized that it looks a lot like the big brakes on 50-cals, just with more holes.

Has anyone tried mounting a 1-2-3 block to a muzzle and gave it a shot? I expect it would work as a three-chamber compensator with anti-rise ports, but the bottom ports will stir up some dirt if close to the ground. Maybe something for 3-gun?

What do you guys think? I would definitely try it out if I had a spare block.

 

[30calmachinegunner]

WHY???

 

[Patternpimp]

While cheap it sounds heavy.

 

[churchmouse]

Brakes have ports to divert gas backwards relieving recoil from ones shoulder. These look more like stabilizers than actual brackes.

 

[engineerpower]

WHY???

The idea behind suppressors is to give gas lots of places to go before it exits the system, which allows it to cool and not all go out at once in the bore axis. A block with lots of holes and internal voids gives the gas plenty of paths to travel and destructively interfere with each other's pressure fronts.

Brakes have ports to divert gas backwards relieving recoil from ones shoulder. These look more like stabilizers than actual brackes.

When gas impacts a surface perpendicular to the bore axis, its reactive force will push the system forward, thereby reducing recoil. You don't have to direct gas jets back at the shooter to reduce recoil.

While cheap it sounds heavy.

No more so than this on a .50:

Or this on a pistol:

 

[30calmachinegunner]

Hey, I think it's a waste of a 1-2-3 block and a downright goofy idea but go ahead and do it and let us know the results or lack of

 

[CountryBoy19]

Hey, I think it's a waste of a 1-2-3 block and a downright goofy idea but go ahead and do it and let us know the results or lack of

I agree... 100% complete waste of a 1-2-3 block...

Not to mention the fact that it would be a LOT easier to machine a brake from mild steel than it will to machine that hardened steel 1-2-3 block...

 

[IndyGunworks]

you guys disappoint me.... These are the kind of projects that are fun to look at on the internet.... I say GO FOR IT

 

[1911ly]

I agree with IndyGunworks. It would make a interesting forum post. I have my doubts as to it's effectiveness but it I would like to know for sure! I agree. Go for it!

 

[engineerpower]

I agree... 100% complete waste of a 1-2-3 block...

Not to mention the fact that it would be a LOT easier to machine a brake from mild steel than it will to machine that hardened steel 1-2-3 block...

I'm sure there's come a time that a block has been dinged, rusted, drilled out, etc., and been relegated to the back of the drawer. I'm not saying I need to get a brand-new US-made high precision block and shoot it; any old block will do.

I think the holes tend to be 3/8, so there's plenty of clearance for a 7.62 projectile without it being a sewer pipe for it. Most blocks are hardened, but annealing with a torch would allow them to be threaded or tapped.

If I see a cheapie pop up on ebay, or anyone has a junk block they'd like to donate, I'll thread it up for my WASR and give it a go. If it works awesome, patent rights are mine...

 

[1911ly]

I'm sure there's come a time that a block has been dinged, rusted, drilled out, etc., and been relegated to the back of the drawer. I'm not saying I need to get a brand-new US-made high precision block and shoot it; any old block will do.

I think the holes tend to be 3/8, so there's plenty of clearance for a 7.62 projectile without it being a sewer pipe for it. Most blocks are hardened, but annealing with a torch would allow them to be threaded or tapped.

If I see a cheapie pop up on ebay, or anyone has a junk block they'd like to donate, I'll thread it up for my WASR and give it a go. If it works awesome, patent rights are mine...

They are cheap

SHARS 1 Pair 123 Blocks 1 2 3 Ultra Precision 0002 Hardened 23 Holes | eBay

I have bought a bunch of these to use with my mill.

 

[engineerpower]

Yeah, probably have to wait a spell. Blew my disposable income until May on the $499 VZ2008 deal. Gotta dig out the gear box and free up some cash!

 

[BAZOOKa]

I'm with countryboy. Good luck drilling and tapping the hardened 1 2 3 block. Maybe you could find one already tapped in 1/2-28, but I know most are 3/8-16.

 

[engineerpower]

I'll anneal the attachment point with a torch, been there done that in working with hardened steel. Most blocks I'm seeing have 5 of the holes up top tapped and leave the 1-2 side untapped.

 

[1911ly]

I'm with countryboy. Good luck drilling and tapping the hardened 1 2 3 block. Maybe you could find one already tapped in 1/2-13, but I know most are 3/8-16.

Annealing a small piece like that is easily done. Even at home. Whether it's a practical project? I don't know but I have wasted a lot more money and time to end up with less. It a experiment.

 

[1911ly]

You posted about the same time I did. Yep. Do it with a torch. Even MAP gas. I'd anneal the whole thing. heat till it's not longer magnetic. Bury in sand till it cools. Drill and tap.

 

[engineerpower]

1911ly, you and I are on the same page methinks. If it works you should put one on the rifle in your photo and rock it!

 

[1911ly]

I'll give you a 1-2-3 block but the shipping would cost more then the block. If you get near South Bend.... but you'd have to post about it. Success or fail!

 

[1911ly]

1911ly, you and I are on the same page methinks. If it works you should put one on the rifle in your photo and rock it!

That's my 50cal. It's got a break, lol Works great too!!

 

[CountryBoy19]

I'm sure there's come a time that a block has been dinged, rusted, drilled out, etc., and been relegated to the back of the drawer. I'm not saying I need to get a brand-new US-made high precision block and shoot it; any old block will do.

I think the holes tend to be 3/8, so there's plenty of clearance for a 7.62 projectile without it being a sewer pipe for it. Most blocks are hardened, but annealing with a torch would allow them to be threaded or tapped.

If I see a cheapie pop up on ebay, or anyone has a junk block they'd like to donate, I'll thread it up for my WASR and give it a go. If it works awesome, patent rights are mine...

I guess I still don't get it... no offense intended...

I guess the way I see it making a brake you have 2 options.

#1 (your way) you buy a precision-ground, hardened piece of metal with holes already in it. You must first anneal it. Annealling is possible at home, but to anneal properly you really need an oven. You can do it with an oxy-acetylene torch but you must allow it to cool very slowly. After all that effort to anneal the block you still have to machine the mounting point and your holes are fixed position/angle and you can only make them larger. In the end you end up with a lot of work into a brake that looks like some sort of screwed up cross between a large, boxy fishgill brake and the round brakes that have round holes in them. You still have to machine a mounting point for it...

#2 (the way I would do it) Start with a block of mild steel, or even some pre-hard around 30 RC. Machine it exactly how you want it and end up with no more work in it than doing it the other way, and possibly even less work...

To each his own... just trying to point out that it may just be easier/cheaper to start with a blank of metal than repurpose something else.