1911 bobtail / carry cut

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  • TJ Kackowski

    Let it begin here.
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    Jun 8, 2012
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    I’m really regretting not buying NobleSnipers 10mm Dan Wesson. So many regrets. Sigh.

    But a 6” DW Kodiak? Hmm.
    Now, now ... no regrets. What's done is done. We move on to the next best thing with anticipation and joy. If we need to spend some time lamenting the past, keep it brief, as there isn't a firearm that can't be replaced or rebuilt with enough of Patience's money ... strike that ...
    patience and money.
     

    wcd

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    Dec 2, 2011
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    T-DOGG...nice work on the 1911 bobtail...it takes a while and requires patience to achieve quality work, especially when working with metal.

    I, too, love the 1911 platform but, anymore, only if it's bob-tailed...OEM or aftermarket, it doesn't matter to me, I'm just at the point where I won't have one that isn't bob-tailed!

    AllenM did this one for me several years ago...still my favorite 1911! Now I want a 9mm 1911...
    ccfAYcZ.jpg
    Of Course Allen M does stellar work. Just wondering about the real advantages to the bobtail? I have really large hands and have found. So I appreciate the extra real estate.

    Also seems like Ruger makes a solid 1911
     

    T-DOGG

    I'm Spicy, deal with it.
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    Of Course Allen M does stellar work. Just wondering about the real advantages to the bobtail? I have really large hands and have found. So I appreciate the extra real estate.

    Also seems like Ruger makes a solid 1911
    The bobtail cut is for concealment purposes. The butt of the gun is what sticks up and "prints" under a garment. By removing that sharp pronounced corner, it helps hide the gun better.

    And, more importantly, it looks cool and that's all that really matters.
     

    wcd

    Grandmaster
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    Dec 2, 2011
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    The bobtail cut is for concealment purposes. The butt of the gun is what sticks up and "prints" under a garment. By removing that sharp pronounced corner, it helps hide the gun better.

    And, more importantly, it looks cool and that's all that really matters.
    Yeah I still like the extra grip surface. Of course it is a 1911 so there is that.
     

    Amishman44

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    49   1   0
    Dec 30, 2009
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    Woodburn
    Of Course Allen M does stellar work. Just wondering about the real advantages to the bobtail? I have really large hands and have found. So I appreciate the extra real estate.

    Also seems like Ruger makes a solid 1911
    I like the bob-tail because I have smaller sized hands and it makes the grip fit a lot more comfortably than with the toe sticking out!
    I like the way the bob-tail cut looks, fits, and feels, but mainly it's just a personal preference!
     
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    T-DOGG

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    Finally got around to finishing this one up. Short trigger, french border, ejection port dehorn, and flat topped with some serrations. Serrations on the top are a center cut with a 5/32 corner radius and 1/8 ball cuts on the sides, both .005" deep and edges were cut with a single point thread mill about .015" deep.

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    T-DOGG

    I'm Spicy, deal with it.
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    A little more action on this gun. Frame ramp was cut at 35.5 degrees and had a short ramp from the factory. Ramp measured .325" from top of rails to bottom of ramp. Research shows most of the pros aim for 31.5 degrees and .375" to .420" depth, with around .400" being the preferred depth. Looks like Kuhnhausen shows 31 degrees in the 1911 bible.

    Tonight I recut to 31.5 degrees and ramp depth is now around .399". That should alleviate some feeding issues I was experiencing on occasion with ball ammo.

    Before. You can see some of my ball ammo was hitting at the very bottom of the ramp.

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    In process

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    After

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    T-DOGG

    I'm Spicy, deal with it.
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    VIS relief cut performed. Vertical Impact Surface. Where the back of the barrel lower lug contacts the frame. If the lower portion of the lug feet hit the frame breakage is possible. The idea is to make a relief cut, which leaves a bowtie shaped area at the top. This puts the impact area at the strongest point of the lower lug, at the top towards the tube of the barrel.

    Mine had obvious impact marks and basically no relief cut made. It was atleast hitting even, but I don't want a barrel failure down the road.

    I used a 7/16" long end mill with a .050 radius. EGW sells a cutter specifically for this as well, there's is a slightly larger diameter cut. Mine worked fine, it covers the area that needed relief. The cut does not take off much, maybe around .005".

    Before

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    In process

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    After

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