1911 break-in

[wmitchell]

Looking for a ball park figure of how many rounds have to go down the pipe of a new, very tight, 1911. I recently bought one and can't hardly get it to feed. Finally got it to cycle with LOTS of lube. I feel nothing is wrong with the gun, it just needs broke in.

 

[Armed-N-Ready]

Varies gun to gun.

There is no magic number IMHO but I don't trust a gun (for PD) until it has at lease 500 through the pipe. Which 1911 did you get, most 1911's are not too tight and cycle fine right out of the box.

 

[melensdad]

Looking for a ball park figure of how many rounds have to go down the pipe of a new, very tight, 1911. I recently bought one and can't hardly get it to feed. Finally got it to cycle with LOTS of lube. I feel nothing is wrong with the gun, it just needs broke in.

You are doing it all wrong. Seriously this goes against common wisdom but please hear me out.

You have a very very tight gun, using lubricant simply is keeping your gun tight, its not fixing anything, it is simply allowing the rails to slip on the frame because the lube reduces the friction. Strip the lube off the gun and put a little lapping compound on the gun. It will actually wear the parts but in a controlled manner and fit them together as the action cycles. Don't expect the gun to function well with the lapping compound, at least not at first! You only do this with a new, tight gun but it works and it is not a secret thing but it is not common wisdom.

While using lube may require SEVERAL HUNDRED or even a THOUSAND rounds to wear the parts so they perform reliably, lapping compound will dramatically reduce the effort, time and frustration.

 

[Jay]

Please check the magazines and feed ramp BEFORE you try to lap the rails.

 

[melensdad]

Please check the magazines and feed ramp BEFORE you try to lap the rails.

To that I agree. But I was referring to the point that he said the gun is very tight. Most gun malfunctions can be traced to a bad magazine, but a magazine will neither loosen nor tighten a gun. Lapping compound will fit the frame to the slide. So will running the gun dry. Either way creates friction and wears the parts so they fit. Running it dry has some risks of galling (depending on the grade of steel).

 

[slow1911s]

Not a damn thing wrong with a tight 1911 (or any gun for that matter). I have two that are built like bank vaults. My reliability problems were ammo OAL and magazine feed lip & follower/spring related.

 

[Jay]

how much compound?
what grade of compound?
how many rounds with the compound?
how much experience with lapping compound?

My little brain says too many variables with an unknown amount of experience.

I only spent 18 years as a journeyman toolmaker, so my experience may well be limited..... and I'm certainly no gunsmith. Best of luck.

 

[bigkahunasix]

Have your 1911 looked at by a competent gunsmith. DO NOT try to diddle it yourself if you don't
know what your doing. More than likely it is whatever cheap mags that came with it causing your problem.

 

[Dewidmt]

Only 1911's I know of that are so tight they need a "shooting in" period are Les Baers. Mine functions fine after 200 rounds down it. My Colts and Springfields were fine out of the box.....

 

[rpcblast]

im curious along this subject line: my tauris is pretty new(pt 1911 AR). The first time I put 58 rounds through it no problem. the second time, I put about 100 rounds through it, and i did try shooting really fast, and I ended up with two FTF/FTEs(both i think were on the last round/chambering the last round)/ Is it possible that this is due to the gun's newness?

 

[Wabatuckian]

Buy a Wilson #47 7rnd magazine.

If it chokes with that, it's the gun. If not, it's the mag.

Kimber is famous for saying that their pistols need to be "broken in." This is pure, unadulterated crap on their part.

They told one guy I know that he needed 5,000 rounds (yes, five THOUSAND) downrange before it would shoot correctly.

This is an excuse for poor QC on their parts.

Try the new magazine and then contact the gun manufacturer. If it's not a Baer or Gold Cup, it will not require "breaking in."

Now, let me define the "break-in": Most pistols which are fitted right will not have FTFeed after 100 to 200 rounds. Remember, the parts are just wearing into each other. You can sit there and hand cycle most 1911 pistols and get the same results, using dummy rounds (don't let the slide slam forward on an empty chamber! severe damage WILL result!)

In other words, using a Tripp or Wilson mag, I've never seen a 1911 need more than 100 rounds to start shooting right - and by shooting right, I mean accurately. Function is usually 100% out of the box. This "break in" period is something conjured up by modern 1911 manufacturers. Go back to the '70s or even '80s and say that. You'll get a lot of funny looks.

Swap mags. If that doesn't work, swap guns.

Josh <><

 

[TFB53]

I am interested in this topic as I have a NIB Springfield G.I. Milspec being shipped . I should get it tomorrow and want to try to get out Sunday and shoot it. This is my first 1911 and want to try and do the right thing. I own semi auto pistols , revolvers , shotguns and rifles ,so I am not new to the sport , just the 1911. Should I :

1) Take the gun apart and clean it ?
2) Dry cycle the slide ?
3) Shoot x number of rounds and clean ?
4) None of the above , take it out shoot the he-- out of it ?

I bought this basic gun in part because I didn't want two factory mags. I intend to buy a Wilson , Tripp , or Chip McCormick pro mag today so I can't use mag as a failure issue.
Thanks for your opinions ?

 

[Jay]

I am interested in this topic as I have a NIB Springfield G.I. Milspec being shipped . I should get it tomorrow and want to try to get out Sunday and shoot it. This is my first 1911 and want to try and do the right thing. I own semi auto pistols , revolvers , shotguns and rifles ,so I am not new to the sport , just the 1911. Should I :

1) Take the gun apart and clean it ?
2) Dry cycle the slide ?
3) Shoot x number of rounds and clean ?
4) None of the above , take it out shoot the he-- out of it ?

I bought this basic gun in part because I didn't want two factory mags. I intend to buy a Wilson , Tripp , or Chip McCormick pro mag today so I can't use mag as a failure issue.
Thanks for your opinions ?

I'd suggest you read the manual.
Clean and lube the firearm per the manual....(at least make sure the bore is clean/clear)
Familiarize yourself with all it's controls
Go shoot, and enjoy it....... range report required...

 

[TFB53]

Good advice , always have and always will do the reading first. I know way to many who won't ( I don't need no stinking manual ) and have suffered as a result.
Thanks

 

[Nobudy]

Is the bluing wearing off more in one spot that the rest of the slide or frame or is it even all the way down both rails?

 

[mwilson]

sons colt gold cup 10mm stainless did not function correctly(pick up new round and go back into battery to fire again) same thing wess' gun is doing. new gun, very tight. stainless will gaul very easily,needs lubed. i personally took wess' gun overlubed it to see what would happen. guess what . it started picking the rounds up and cycling them. some guns are tight and do need broken in. and every custom gun write up from the 70s gun mags that i ever read told you that x number of rounds need to be ran thru them to break them in.

 

[Captain Bligh]

You said it's new. Put 500 rounds through it. Mark magazines to determine if it happens with selected or all magazines. If it occurs with random magazines after 500 rounds, send it back to the manufacturer. That is what warranties are made for.

Let them fix it for you.

 

[bwframe]

Per Kimber's owners manual:
For proper break in of the firearm, shoot 400-500 rounds of quality factory ball (230g FMJ) ammunition, cleaning the gun every 100-150 rounds.

For feeding issues, you might look at your extractor. Here is a link that will explain it better than I can. 1911 Reliability Secrets

 

[IndyGunworks]

You are doing it all wrong. Seriously this goes against common wisdom but please hear me out.

You have a very very tight gun, using lubricant simply is keeping your gun tight, its not fixing anything, it is simply allowing the rails to slip on the frame because the lube reduces the friction. Strip the lube off the gun and put a little lapping compound on the gun. It will actually wear the parts but in a controlled manner and fit them together as the action cycles. Don't expect the gun to function well with the lapping compound, at least not at first! You only do this with a new, tight gun but it works and it is not a secret thing but it is not common wisdom.

While using lube may require SEVERAL HUNDRED or even a THOUSAND rounds to wear the parts so they perform reliably, lapping compound will dramatically reduce the effort, time and frustration.

while good advice i would caution you to put that on an internet forum... fitting the slide to the frame of a 1911 is very tedious work, and lapping them together while it sounds easy in print is a bit more complicated than one might think... the lapping compound can actually embed itself into the metal and continue to abrade after its been (removed).... thus loosing the tight tolerances one strives for and even creating some problems.

Not a damn thing wrong with a tight 1911 (or any gun for that matter). I have two that are built like bank vaults. My reliability problems were ammo OAL and magazine feed lip & follower/spring related.

i would try several types of manufacturers mags first.... then maybe some dykem layout fluid to see where its hitting on the ramp

how much compound?
what grade of compound?
how many rounds with the compound?
how much experience with lapping compound?

My little brain says too many variables with an unknown amount of experience.

I only spent 18 years as a journeyman toolmaker, so my experience may well be limited..... and I'm certainly no gunsmith. Best of luck.

see first reply, but low grits are dangerous

Have your 1911 looked at by a competent gunsmith. DO NOT try to diddle it yourself if you don't
know what your doing. More than likely it is whatever cheap mags that came with it causing your problem.

this i agree with... not all 1911's are created equal and if the magazine test, along with trying some differant ammo doesnt fix it then there are MANY places we can look

Per Kimber's owners manual:
For proper break in of the firearm, shoot 400-500 rounds of quality factory ball (230g FMJ) ammunition, cleaning the gun every 100-150 rounds.

this is my typical break in with all firearms... in fact the copper grease glocks come with is a mild abrasive and should NOT be removed prior to shooting...

ill add one more thing and its that i think 1911's like to run a bit better with grease instead of oil... i am partial to slide glide... try it and you might not use anything else... ever

 

[bigkahunasix]

Buy a Wilson #47 7rnd magazine.

If it chokes with that, it's the gun. If not, it's the mag.
Not necessarily, I have 2 1911's that don't like them and one IS a Wilson.
Kimber is famous for saying that their pistols need to be "broken in." This is pure, unadulterated crap on their part.
Any and ALL 1911's need around 500 rounds to "settle in" their parts for reliability.
They told one guy I know that he needed 5,000 rounds (yes, five THOUSAND) downrange before it would shoot correctly.
I know most of the Kimber 'smiths and cannot believe this at all, it smacks of internet sensationalism at best and smearing at worst.
This is an excuse for poor QC on their parts.
See my second reply.
Try the new magazine and then contact the gun manufacturer. If it's not a Baer or Gold Cup, it will not require "breaking in."
Again, see my second reply.
Now, let me define the "break-in": Most pistols which are fitted right will not have FTFeed after 100 to 200 rounds. Remember, the parts are just wearing into each other. You can sit there and hand cycle most 1911 pistols and get the same results, using dummy rounds (don't let the slide slam forward on an empty chamber! severe damage WILL result!)
I have been doing pistol work for 30+ years both at the Competition Rifle and Pistol
shop at Quantico for the Marine Corps and as a civilian commercially. I have ALWAYS recommended a 500 round break-in period, and in the Corps nobody shot a pistol in competition until it had at least 500 down the pipe for function and accuracy.
In other words, using a Tripp or Wilson mag, I've never seen a 1911 need more than 100 rounds to start shooting right - and by shooting right, I mean accurately. Function is usually 100% out of the box. This "break in" period is something conjured up by modern 1911 manufacturers. Go back to the '70s or even '80s and say that. You'll get a lot of funny looks.
Hmmm, I never recieved any "funny" looks when I told shooters to break-in their pistols. Also, just how many 1911's have you either A)built with your own two hands,
B) Professionally tested using set, repeatable tests required by the owner/shooter for accuracy and reliability. (Just wondering.) And as good as Tripp and Wilson mags are, some guns do not like them. Just like any other mag out there. In fact, the only mags I saw that worked in anything I plugged them into were Devels' back in the 70's, I don't know how or why but they worked in everything I tried them in. Period.
Swap mags. If that doesn't work, swap guns.
Being patient and testing the variables works better than starting all over with a different gun again. Get and READ the Kuhnhausen books, Hallocks or Pat Sweeneys
book for solid testing and troubleshooting ideas.
Josh <><

Good old fashioned patient troubleshooting will get you farther than internet ideas and broad blanketing statments based on supposition.

BK6