1911 Compact MELT project!

[88E30M50]

I've had mixed results with Duracoat. Over a parkerized finish, it's very durable. I've also had good luck with it over a cold blued finish but over bare metal, it's failed pretty quickly. I did not grit blast the bare metal as recommended though, which may have impacted the durability. I also baked each part in a toaster oven when complete. Cerakote is the better finish though, but may require more equipment or skill than I could muster.

 

[churchmouse]

I've had mixed results with Duracoat. Over a parkerized finish, it's very durable. I've also had good luck with it over a cold blued finish but over bare metal, it's failed pretty quickly. I did not grit blast the bare metal as recommended though, which may have impacted the durability. I also baked each part in a toaster oven when complete. Cerakote is the better finish though, but may require more equipment or skill than I could muster.

Cera Coat work I have been a part of started with a sand blasting cabinet and them a good dip in an acetone tank/pan. Remove, drip dry. Heat up and coat then back to the oven.

 

[IndyGunworks]

I think you should look at AIR DRY cerekote. If you try and stick that puppy in an oven that gets hot enough for cerekote I think your JB well will distort. Worst case if it does though is blast the coating back off and fill the marks back in.

Whatever you spray it with Sand blasting and degreasing are the keys to a durable finish. Don't skimp there.

 

[Tnichols00]

Very nice!! Coming along pretty cool!

I have always like this black and silver combo, I know it would be a little more difficult but I just love how it looks personally

 

[T4rdV4rk]

I think you should look at AIR DRY cerekote. If you try and stick that puppy in an oven that gets hot enough for cerekote I think your JB well will distort. Worst case if it does though is blast the coating back off and fill the marks back in.

Whatever you spray it with Sand blasting and degreasing are the keys to a durable finish. Don't skimp there.

I have never used the product, but JB weld states a continuous use temperature at a maximum of 450º. The linked pdf says to cure at 250º so it looks like the JB will be stable.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/training/Manual.pdf

 

[churchmouse]

I am sitting here holding my Hot-Rod Range Officer imagining how I can make this work. HHhhmmmmmmmm.....

 

[88E30M50]

I am sitting here holding my Hot-Rod Range Officer imagining how I can make this work. HHhhmmmmmmmm.....

Send it out for an NP3 finish, add a set of mammoth ivory grips and call it done. Don't go overboard and do the whole scrotum leather holster thing though, unless you want other folks to kindly decline your offer to let them hold the gun.

OP: After the frame finish, are you going to do any internal work on it?

 

[IndyGunworks]

I have never used the product, but JB weld states a continuous use temperature at a maximum of 450º. The linked pdf says to cure at 250º so it looks like the JB will be stable.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/training/Manual.pdf

HUH, I had no idea it was that high... Maybe the stuff I have used in the past was different? On one of my cannon projects I had to weld a tab onto a piece where further down the metal I had a piece JB welded into place. I held it near that spot with my bare hand (I just did a small tack weld to see how it would look)... that area got pretty warm but not so hot I couldn't touch it but the piece slid around a little cause the JB got soft.

Thinking on it alittle bit it may have been devcon steel epoxy I was using there.... Don't know what its temp rating is.

at 450 continuous temp, you should be good to go and cerekote would be your best choice for a factory quality finish.

 

[churchmouse]

Send it out for an NP3 finish, add a set of mammoth ivory grips and call it done. Don't go overboard and do the whole scrotum leather holster thing though, unless you want other folks to kindly decline your offer to let them hold the gun.

OP: After the frame finish, are you going to do any internal work on it?

It has been re-done all the way through. Tightened the rails, Brown trigger/sear/spring, fusion match barrel/bushing, Archangel mag-well grips.

 

[philbert001]

Send it out for an NP3 finish, add a set of mammoth ivory grips and call it done. Don't go overboard and do the whole scrotum leather holster thing though, unless you want other folks to kindly decline your offer to let them hold the gun.

OP: After the frame finish, are you going to do any internal work on it?

Nothin sets off a 1911 like a mammoth scrotum holster!

 

[ryan3326]

Sanded everything today with 600 grit to prepare for DuraCoat. Went with matte black and I will have a few polished accents and cocobolo grips. Here are some pics while the DuraCoat cures. Notice the logos are 100% gone. Also ordered Kimber Tac Mags, extended stainless magwell, cocobolo grips, EB trigger. I am going to hold off on night sights until I finish.

Here is my "inspiration" for the coloration I chose except I am keeping the controls black.

 

[churchmouse]

Very nice so far.
So you just took off the sharp edges.

 

[ryan3326]

yes. not to complicated a project.

 

[churchmouse]

It is very subtle. I just finished all the mechanical work on an RO that used to be a steel gun. Optics mount with threaded holes in the dust cover. All that is gone but the holes remain. It needs to be refinished so now is the right time to rub on it and weld up the holes.

 

[churchmouse]

Springfield RO. Pic is the rails being lapped in after tightening the slide/frame fit. You can see the holes in the dust cover where the optic mounted. You can also see where the slide clamps were if you look.

 

[ryan3326]

new project thread: Kahr PM9 Melt (here)

 

[Titanium_Frost]

Any pics of the completed 1911?

 

[LPPOsecurity]

Ya, I'd like to see the completed 1911

 

[ryan3326]

And here is the finished gun:

 

[DarrenL]

Looks really nice well done!