1911 light strikes

[drillsgt]

Google your type of gun and light firing pin strikes and it looks like others have had the same problem, some have traced it back to the titanium firing pin and replaced it. Springers come with pretty stout mainsprings, I would be surprised if that was the issue. It'd be unlikely since your problem just started but maybe pull the barrel and check the cartridge seating.

 

[88E30M50]

I'm not overly 1911 literate, but would a pencil test work to tell if this is the case on a series 80 gun? Again, if that's ignorant to ask, apologies.

It should. Most of my 1911s will bounce a pencil off the ceiling pretty hard. In this case, the fact that the hammer is falling rules out a bunch of components for now. The source of the problem should only be either the hammer is falling without enough force or the firing pin is being impeded after being struck.

If this is a series 80, take a look at the 2 cams that ride along side the hammer to make sure they are Ok and lifting the FPB high enough. Maybe the nose of the lifter arm broke and is not getting the reach it needs to properly clear the block. Again, if a series 70, none of this applies.

The only things I can come up with on the FP is either the block is malfunctioning (if it has one) or there is something in the slide that’s blocking movement. If both of those check out fine, then it may be an issue within the MSH. Either the spring is weak (odd that it would suddenly become weak) or the spring is binding and not delivering the full force.

 

[drillsgt]

It should. Most of my 1911s will bounce a pencil off the ceiling pretty hard. In this case, the fact that the hammer is falling rules out a bunch of components for now. The source of the problem should only be either the hammer is falling without enough force or the firing pin is being impeded after being struck.

If this is a series 80, take a look at the 2 cams that ride along side the hammer to make sure they are Ok and lifting the FPB high enough. Maybe the nose of the lifter arm broke and is not getting the reach it needs to properly clear the block. Again, if a series 70, none of this applies.

The only things I can come up with on the FP is either the block is malfunctioning (if it has one) or there is something in the slide that’s blocking movement. If both of those check out fine, then it may be an issue within the MSH. Either the spring is weak (odd that it would suddenly become weak) or the spring is binding and not delivering the full force.

It's a Springfield so no series 80.

 

[Lost Californian]

How much and what did you "Lube" the firing pin with? I don't lube firing pins.

Rem Oil with Teflon. Spray on, let sit, the blow off excess with compressed air.

Is this a series 80 gun? The sudden onset and consistency of the problem makes me think that the firing pin may not be getting unblocked if it has a firing pin safety.

I don't know what a series 80 gun means.


It is fixed! At least it is firing now. And I learned a thing!

Went to my favorite LGS - Wabash Valley Armory in Terre Haute - and told Mike what was going on. He put a plastic pen in the barrel, and pulled the trigger, pen barely cleared coming out the barrel. He took it to the back room, gone just a minute or three, and when he brought it back out, did the pen thing again and it went feet into the air.

I learned today that the gun has an adjustable trigger, and Mike said he took 3 turns out on it. I brought it home, and it fired five rounds just fine.

So, now my question is, how does the adjustable trigger work, and why does changing it make the hammer fall harder. And what caused it to change in the first place? How do I prevent it from happening again?

 

[Robert Richardson]

Trigger over travel screw, keeps the trigger from going to far into the frame. Trigger not going far enough would cause drag or not move enough to trip the sear. Not really an adjustable trigger.

 

[churchmouse]

Thanks for the offers. I know where Allen's place is, and if that is what it takes I will.

LOL - Churchmouse, what are you doing Saturday around 4pm? I work near the airport (US40/Washington & High School Rd) and will be off work at 4. Careful what ya offer! I do appreciate the help.

I am giving a 1911 Seminar with Allen and DrillSgt at AllenM's place actually.

 

[drillsgt]

Rem Oil with Teflon. Spray on, let sit, the blow off excess with compressed air.



I don't know what a series 80 gun means.


It is fixed! At least it is firing now. And I learned a thing!

Went to my favorite LGS - Wabash Valley Armory in Terre Haute - and told Mike what was going on. He put a plastic pen in the barrel, and pulled the trigger, pen barely cleared coming out the barrel. He took it to the back room, gone just a minute or three, and when he brought it back out, did the pen thing again and it went feet into the air.

I learned today that the gun has an adjustable trigger, and Mike said he took 3 turns out on it. I brought it home, and it fired five rounds just fine.

So, now my question is, how does the adjustable trigger work, and why does changing it make the hammer fall harder. And what caused it to change in the first place? How do I prevent it from happening again?

Interesting, it makes sense though if the adjustment is off then the hammer and sear can rub. When you fit a trigger with an adjustable stop if it's not adjusted right and you cock and lower the hammer you can feel the two bumping, then you adjust it until you don't feel that contact.

 

[88E30M50]

That’s interesting. My belief that the hammer falling indicated a proper functioning sear and trigger is apparently completely wrong. I’ve known that adjusting the trigger to eliminate the mid stroke contact is needed but I never figured that it could slow the hammer enough to cause a light strike.

Dang good thing I’ll be with AllenM and CM on Saturday to improve my 1911 foo.