.243 Win barrel twist rates and bullet weights.

[Bigtanker]

When talking about what bullets will be stabilized by a given twist rate it is not about the weight of the bullet as much as it is about the length of the bullet. Of course weight tends to go up as length increases but some bullet designs produce longer bullets for a given weight than others. The best bet is to try a bunch of different quality bullets and see what shoots the best for you. One thing I will caution you on, is that bullet weight is a poor substitute for tougher bullet construction. Plenty of deer have been killed with a wide variety of bullet types and bullet weights from .243s when everything goes right but when things don't go quite right you can save yourself a lot of headache and heartache by using a tougher bullet. A premium bonded, or better yet mono-metal bullet is cheap insurance.

Thanks. I will only use a bonded or mono bullet. I had already decided that.

 

[halfmileharry]

You'll have to find out what YOUR rifle likes. Take rifles off the assembly line side by side and they may prefer different ammo.
My first choices have been Federal Premium, Fusion has been pretty fair, and Hornady. They seem to be consistent and seldom do any of these let me down.

 

[Sniper 79]

My old Ruger M77 with 1-9 twist shoots 80-100grn real well. Wonderful cartridge the .243 is.

 

[den57]

My Remington .243 likes 95 grain Fusion. 1 - 9 1/8 twist

 

[snapping turtle]

With the Rossi single shot I can not remember if it has just one or two forearm screws. Being a contender fan for years a nice little rubber washer or two under that firearm to somewhat free float the barrel might help your groups tighten. The sling swivel is a nice place for a bi pod also.

When you you get it nice and broke in you will be surprised how fast one can reload and get off a second shot with a single shot rifle. Seldom needed as one good shot is really all it takes.

 

[Bigtanker]

With the Rossi single shot I can not remember if it has just one or two forearm screws. Being a contender fan for years a nice little rubber washer or two under that firearm to somewhat free float the barrel might help your groups tighten. The sling swivel is a nice place for a bi pod also.

When you you get it nice and broke in you will be surprised how fast one can reload and get off a second shot with a single shot rifle. Seldom needed as one good shot is really all it takes.

It has one screw in the forend. It also doubles as a sling mount.

This rifle was used when I recieved it. I just need more time behind the trigger. I've only put about 25 rounds through it so far. That makes it under 40 rounds I've ever shot from a non-AR, non rimfire rifle. Although I did do pretty dang good with 1911ly's AllenM 300 win mag build.

 

[oldpink]

Thanks. I will only use a bonded or mono bullet. I had already decided that.

Spot on
It's worth it to spend a bit more on the ammo for maximizing bullet performance to bring your quarry down rapidly with a proper hit, both to recover the deer and to be ethical.
Having a premium bonded or mono bullet will also greatly improve those odds with unusual angles or very short or longer distances.

 

[Double T]

Finally found that my rifle is actually a 1:10 twist. Founds some old documents online, considering they discontinued the bull barrel model. That opens up my options a bit more for ammo. My stepdad bought a box of 100gr. that I'll try out to sight it in. Probably going to hit up SGammo for a variety of types to see what it prefers.

 

[Bigtanker]

I tried out the 95 gr Federal Fusion today. No keyholes. I still need to work on my marksmanship though. Best I could do @ 100 yds was about 3 1/2". I was at the range with my family so I didn't dedicate a whole bunch of time to it. I'll try some more later.

I did find the Hornady (?) Copper rounds at Big R. $38 for 20. Ouch. I'll see if I can do better with the Dusion first before buying them.

 

[halfmileharry]

I tried out the 95 gr Federal Fusion today. No keyholes. I still need to work on my marksmanship though. Best I could do @ 100 yds was about 3 1/2". I was at the range with my family so I didn't dedicate a whole bunch of time to it. I'll try some more later.

I did find the Hornady (?) Copper rounds at Big R. $38 for 20. Ouch. I'll see if I can do better with the Dusion first before buying them.

I like the Fusion for accuracy out of a box. They use premium bullets and consistency has been excellent.
An improperly mounted scope can cause loose groups. I've got a couple of Bushnell scopes 4x12x40 AO and they hold excellent. I'm running Leupold rings and bases on one and Boch rings on Leupold base on the other.
I get everything floated out even, tighten evenly, remove one screw at a time, blue Permatex thread locker medium #24200 and hand snug tight and evenly.
I let the thread locker sit 24 hours before I mess with the rifle.
I don't know if it's the best or proper way to do it but I haven't had to redo anything I've used this procedure on. It's working for me.

 

[two70]

I tried out the 95 gr Federal Fusion today. No keyholes. I still need to work on my marksmanship though. Best I could do @ 100 yds was about 3 1/2". I was at the range with my family so I didn't dedicate a whole bunch of time to it. I'll try some more later.

I did find the Hornady (?) Copper rounds at Big R. $38 for 20. Ouch. I'll see if I can do better with the Dusion first before buying them.

You might want to give these Nosler E-Tips a try. The price is a lot better than the almost $2 per round for the Hornady GMX and they are likely to be a bit more accurate. I would recommend giving your rifle a thorough cleaning before trying any of lead free bullets.

 

[bwframe]

Just picked up my .243 yesterday. Got glass, ammo and reloading components on the way.


I have my eye on a variety of pulled bullets to piddle with also. Any experience loading pulled bullets in .243?

 

[natdscott]

It depends on how carefully they were pulled, and with what equipment. I've shot pulled bullets at 1,000 yards and they did fine, but I pulled them VERY carefully.

Keep in mind on the pulled stuff that it is largely not the bearing surface that matters on a bullet that is still round and balanced. A little surface scratching from a collet is basically a non-issue, because that portion of the bullet is about to get the hell kicked out of it in the rifling anyway.

Makes sense, doesn't it?

But the ogive--and to a much more huger grander larger level, the BASE and the MEPLAT--must be 100% as-issued. Hand inspection is the only way I've ever seen to do this, and you just sort anything out that doesn't look perfect, has dimples, dents, dings, etc. Those bullets go into the "practice", "sighter", or "barrel fouling" pile. That, or bin #13.

What's the rifle again, bw?

I personally like some old-school choices, and the Sierra 85 GameKing is a heck of a choice for a do-all bullet in .243. So much so that it is basically one of those American "standard loads" we all love to hear about. Stick it in front of IMR 4064 and find out that it is still, as it ever was, one mean SOB.

-Nate

 

[bwframe]

It depends on how carefully they were pulled, and with what equipment. I've shot pulled bullets at 1,000 yards and they did fine, but I pulled them VERY carefully.

Keep in mind on the pulled stuff that it is largely not the bearing surface that matters on a bullet that is still round and balanced. A little surface scratching from a collet is basically a non-issue, because that portion of the bullet is about to get the hell kicked out of it in the rifling anyway.

Makes sense, doesn't it?

But the ogive--and to a much more huger grander larger level, the BASE and the MEPLAT--must be 100% as-issued. Hand inspection is the only way I've ever seen to do this, and you just sort anything out that doesn't look perfect, has dimples, dents, dings, etc. Those bullets go into the "practice", "sighter", or "barrel fouling" pile. That, or bin #13.

What's the rifle again, bw?

I personally like some old-school choices, and the Sierra 85 GameKing is a heck of a choice for a do-all bullet in .243. So much so that it is basically one of those American "standard loads" we all love to hear about. Stick it in front of IMR 4064 and find out that it is still, as it ever was, one mean SOB.

-Nate

First of all, thank you for the info! I've been reading your posts from here and other forums while researching.

I got a Rem 700 VLS.

I'm looking at these pulled bullets from RMR. I'm thinking the two varieties that are mixed, so I was planning on hand sorting anyway to get four different weights to play with.

I have a couple pounds of 4064. From everything I've read, looks like it wouldn't hurt to get some more in as this might well be the go to powder for this cartridge?

While we're talking components, I'm very limited on .243 brass. I have a couple boxes of loaded rounds on the way and 50pc of brass. I do have a pretty fair amount of .308 brass on hand. Should I consider carefully necking down .308 brass to .243 or is that a bad idea?

 

[natdscott]

First of all, thank you for the info! I've been reading your posts from here and other forums while researching.

lol!! Careful, careful... my mood on the keyboard can dictate what I say and how I say it!

I have a couple pounds of 4064. From everything I've read, looks like it wouldn't hurt to get some more in as this might well be the go to powder for this cartridge?

While we're talking components, I'm very limited on .243 brass. I have a couple boxes of loaded rounds on the way and 50pc of brass. I do have a pretty fair amount of .308 brass on hand. Should I consider carefully necking down .308 brass to .243 or is that a bad idea?

I dunno if I'd get more 4064 just yet. I mean, I guess it depends on your thought process though. I never seem to keep more than about 3/4 lb of something around that I don't use, and I don't purchase a bunch at a time unless I KNOW I need it, but that may be budget related. There's a wonderful chance that 4064 will shoot well for you though.

Incidentally, my 85 loads are with RE-15. It's really a little slow for that bullet weight, and I HAVE most of a pound of 4064 I could load, but I tried RE-15, found a load that is 3/4 minute (plenty good enough for that rifle), and I've just left it alone. But it seems everybody since the dawn of time raves about that 4064/85GK load. I just can't be taught anything.

You CAN neck down .308, but it takes 2 steps (bushings), and you have to turn the necks because too much brass gets jammed into the neck, and pressures/tension get to be horrendous. Taking .243 the other direction is fine.

If you had a bunch of .260 sitting around, I might consider it, but as is, I'd just buy some decent brass and be done with it. Winchester is the jumping off point, then Hornady, then Lapua. I wouldn't personally bother with anything else, because unfortunately Lake City does not make .243 brass that is available to the public.

I formed 6.5 Arisaka from .220 Swift, and again, it worked fine, but I'd bet if I measured the necks, they'd be over 0.020" thick. Frankly, I don't think I want to know! It was a long time ago, and I didn't know as much as I think I do now...

-Nate

 

[bwframe]

...Incidentally, my 85 loads are with RE-15. It's really a little slow for that bullet weight, and I HAVE most of a pound of 4064 I could load, but I tried RE-15, found a load that is 3/4 minute (plenty good enough for that rifle), and I've just left it alone. But it seems everybody since the dawn of time raves about that 4064/85GK load. I just can't be taught anything....

Wonder if I shouldn't see if that gent down south won't meet me halfway on the 5#er of RE-15 he has for sale? Anyone else use RE-15 for .243 loading's?

 

[two70]

First of all, thank you for the info! I've been reading your posts from here and other forums while researching.

I got a Rem 700 VLS.

I'm looking at these pulled bullets from RMR. I'm thinking the two varieties that are mixed, so I was planning on hand sorting anyway to get four different weights to play with.

I have a couple pounds of 4064. From everything I've read, looks like it wouldn't hurt to get some more in as this might well be the go to powder for this cartridge?

While we're talking components, I'm very limited on .243 brass. I have a couple boxes of loaded rounds on the way and 50pc of brass. I do have a pretty fair amount of .308 brass on hand. Should I consider carefully necking down .308 brass to .243 or is that a bad idea?

I've bought pulled .243 bullets from RMR before but haven't loaded any yet. I did visually inspect them and they looked good to go with very little indication they were pulled. IMO, I would just buy more .243 brass as it is not really worth the extra effort for a cartridge as commonly available as the .243 win.

Wonder if I shouldn't see if that gent down south won't meet me halfway on the 5#er of RE-15 he has for sale? Anyone else use RE-15 for .243 loading's?

Yes, I load R-15 behind blemished Hornady 90 grain GMXs for my father to deer hunt with. I can't say how well that load groups as my father is not into shooting groups but it was very effective on two does last year.

 

[bwframe]

My research is turning up that .243 has pretty darned short barrel life before accuracy degrades, as in 1500-2000 rounds. Yikes.

I notice Harry was talking a "light end of the scale load" above. Wonder if the lighter loadings are easier on the throat erosion?

 

[natdscott]

Oh yeah dude. It's a thousand round cartridge. 2,000 would be really optimistic.

Continue research, and look for the coolest powder you can get that will still get it done. That means no triple base stuff like the N5xx VV powders, Power Pros, and probably the Superformance as well.

But you don't need those either.

Last, keep the barrel COOL unless you are actually trying to kill something. No more than 3 rds at a time, and if possible, wait a minute between shots.

-Nate

 

[two70]

My research is turning up that .243 has pretty darned short barrel life before accuracy degrades, as in 1500-2000 rounds. Yikes.

I notice Harry was talking a "light end of the scale load" above. Wonder if the lighter loadings are easier on the throat erosion?

IMO, accuracy degradation or "wearing out a barrel" is one of the most overblown topics for the average rifle shooter. Unless you are a high volume competitive shooter or a high volume varmint shooter, it will take a long, long time before you have to worry about a worn out barrel. Even when the accuracy of a barrel starts to degrade due to wear, that degradation will be gradual and largely unnoticeable for quite awhile unless you shoot competitively in matches where fractions of an inch matter. Most sporting rifles will struggle to reach the accuracy that such competitive shooters seek in the first place so that point is rather moot. Before you worry about accuracy degradation you need to know what your barrel is capable of in the first place and determine a reasonable standard of acceptable accuracy for your purposes.

As noted, there are things you can do to prolong barrel life such as using lighter loads and not allowing the barrel to get hot while shooting. If/when accuracy does start to degrade, you can maintain accuracy a bit longer by seating your bullets out progressively farther as the throat erodes, within reason of course.