327PC enhanced

[hog slayer]

Proud new owner of a S&W 327PC from my little brother. Any recommendations for the following:

1)hammer spur MUST go. Buy second hammer and dremel?

2) trigger pull is heavy? Apex?

3) shortened grip more suitable for CCW

4) kydex AIWB maker? Surely someone on this forum does this

 

[hog slayer]

So it's only been a day, but I'm struggling to find N-frame hammers. This isn't to say they're not available somewhere, but often times that difficulty means something. Is attempting to buy a new hammer to bob so that the original remains as it was a poor choice for some unforeseen reason?

-holsters I truly understand being custom items

-found the grips sold on the 627 but they were a discontinued item

 

[Hopper]

Regarding spring kits to smooth up the action, I've used Wilson Combat on my K frames in the past, with spectacular success. However, this same spring kit that's supposed to work for L frames as well gave me too many light primer strikes in DA on a 686. For an N frame, I'm really not sure what the options are.

BossHoss, a member on here down in the Patoka Lake area (who specializes in S&W revolvers), might be your best bet for information regarding what can be done. I know he can slick up the action very nicely using the stock parts, and IIRC, an extended firing pin.

 

[obijohn]

You've had it a day and already want to change it? Why not see if it will shoot first.

 

[hog slayer]

Haha! Uh, yeah. Well, I carried it around a bit too.

 

[bwframe]

I would second Hopper, contact BossHoss. He'll have advice, maybe smithing service and possibly parts laying around to sell you?

 

[Bosshoss]

I seen in the other thread that you sent the gun back to Smith already but here is some info if you are interested.


You can get hammers from Brownell's and Midway or straight from S&W. I do have them in stock but I save them for my customers so I don't sell them.
Some of the older PC guns had forged hammers and triggers in them and they are worth saving(not because they are better but because they are not made anymore and worth about 2X what a MIM hammer is worth) I wouldn't bob a forged hammer but just replace it with a new style MIM hammer(Bobbed). If your gun has a MIM hammer in it, which it probably does, it is easy enough to replace if needed. Just bob the stock hammer.

As far as spring kits any of them will reduce the weight of the trigger pull(in varying degrees) but some guns can have light strikes with them. A spring kit is NOT a trigger job as there are lots of things that go into a trigger job. If the spring kit feels good enough to you then you are set. It just doesn't compare to a good trigger job.
Most PC guns have a ribbed mainspring already in them. The ribbed main spring is what a lot of the spring kits have in them.
FWIW I don't care for the ribbed mainspring and I replace all of them that come in the shop with stock S&W flat springs. The flat springs work in competition guns at less than 5 pounds and carry guns at 8 to 10 pounds.

 

[hog slayer]

I think it is proper for me to briefly quantify my experience and knowledge base before proceeding with picking your brain BossHoss.

I have owned and loved 1911's since I started shooting handguns. I've had a couple of revolvers since that remained in the safe. It wasn't until I gave a S&W J-frame Wyatt Deep Cover a try that I decided there was a place for them as a more useful gun for me (all about concealability). I installed an Apex spring kit very quickly and have enjoyed a bit lighter trigger pull. The 327 has a trigger pull that is just a bit more than I'd prefer. I also would like to remove the hammer spur and the single action "catch". I ordered a spring kit off another's recommendation and am awaiting the Apex Evolution IV Hammer to come back in stock to purchase one. Now, I'm sure I'm acting just like an FNG to revolvers and I'm ok with that, so long as everything makes mechanical sense. Where do I begin to learn about revolvers? What's a reliable resource? What are common pitfalls? How many idiot mistakes am I currently making and why?

 

[Bosshoss]

Revolvers(shot DA) are the automotive equivalent of the stick shift. Not everyone's cup of tea but a challenge and satisfying when you get better at it.
The Apex hammer is a work of art and works great but is expensive. It doesn't do any thing a stock hammer won't do. If you put a Apex hammer in a revolver and make no other changes it will not change the trigger pull by its self. I lighten the stock hammer lighter than the Apex hammer and I can get a lighter trigger pull than using a Apex hammer. This is on competition revolvers and doesn't make as much difference on a carry gun. One advantage of the Apex hammer over a bobbed stock hammer is the coating to prevent rust on the exposed part of the hammer. A little oil on a Q-tip rubbed on the bobbed stock hammer will keep it from rusting.
The Apex hammer is NOT a drop in part. About half of them need some fitting. You might get lucky.
If you go the Apex route and can't find one contact the Hogue(yes the grip people) pro shop at Art@hogueinc.com
They usually have them in stock but I haven't checked lately as I haven't installed one in a couple of years.