.38 Special Reloading Help

[MooreALX]

We're trying to load up some .38 Special for the gun that my brother just bought. We're pretty comfortable reloading 9mm and .380, but we're not sure how to set the crimp for the .38 since we've never done that on the others. We were taught to not use the case mouth expander, do we need to be using that for the .38? We are trying to use 158gr BBRNFP, 3.2gr Tightgroup, 1.455 OAL. And we're reloading in a RCBS single stage press (JR3) with a RCBS die set. Any tips for getting the press setup correctly would be appreciated.

 

[45lcrevolver]

I normally expand the case a little if I'm using lead bullet to avoid lead shavings. I normally pull my lever all the way down then screw my die down till it hits my case. Now you need to back out your bullet seater out and adjust your bullet height. After that just give your die about 1/16 of a turn to set your crimp. This works for me but trial and error may give you your desired results lol.

 

[billybob44]

.38 Spl. loads..

We're trying to load up some .38 Special for the gun that my brother just bought. We're pretty comfortable reloading 9mm and .380, but we're not sure how to set the crimp for the .38 since we've never done that on the others. We were taught to not use the case mouth expander, do we need to be using that for the .38? We are trying to use 158gr BBRNFP, 3.2gr Tightgroup, 1.455 OAL. And we're reloading in a RCBS single stage press (JR3) with a RCBS die set. Any tips for getting the press setup correctly would be appreciated.

You DO need to use your expander die. Especially for cast loads.
Expand enough that your bullet will just sit on top of the case.

Your .38 Spl. loads will need a roll crimp that your RCBS seater die will provide. You will need a firm roll crimp to avoid "Bullet Jump".

Some people seat+crimp in the same operation, I like to seat my revolver bullets to the crimp groove, and then crimp in a separate operation-again this is each to his own liking.

If your design bullets do not have a crimp groove, seat to load data specs. If your bullets do have a crimp groove, seat to the foward edge of groove and provide a firm roll crimp.
Hope this helps...Bill.

 

[giovani]

If the instruction sheet is still with your RCBS dies, it will spell it out for you better than I can explain it here on INGO.

 

[Hiker1911]

The steps in the RCBS instructions are the best start. I'm a Lee FCD guy, so that's the die that I use during the crimp step for .38 Spl. 9mm, other pistol, and rifle calibers.

 

[XtremeVel]

Yes, you will want to expand the case mouth. Don't over do it, just enough where the bullet starts.

Your crimp die is probably a " roll " crimp unlike a taper crimp die which you have already used in your auto loader dies...

If case tension and to a smaller degree, the crimp on a auto loader round isn't sufficient, the bullet can set back into the case... Now in the revolver if these (2) aren't set right, the bullet will want to " walk " FORWARD under recoil and possibly locking up your cylinder.

The roll crimp isn't as forgiving as a taper crimp on case length. You do want somewhat of a uniform roll crimp. If your cases vary greatly on length, either trim them or sort them in groups and load them accordingly by simply adjusting your crimp die as the lengths get longer/shorter.

 

[Leo]

XtremeVel gave good advice. The case length on revolver loads needs to be really uniform. Without uniform cases you will never get the seating depth or crimp right. I like to use the Lee case trim system because you cannot cut a case too short. Any cases I find that that are already too short, I just throw away to avoid any bad loads. Good Luck

 

[rimfire_crazed]

Yes. Expand. Use your seating die or a Lee FCD to close the case mouth back up. A major crimp is usually not necessary with the faster burning powders usually seen in the .38 spl.

 

[MooreALX]

Ok, so after your help, I made a half a dozen test rounds, and they seemed to shoot fine. Maybe a little light, but these are just plinking loads. So I loaded up 100 rounds. When I was putting the press away a couple nights later, I noticed that the seating die said on it that it was a taper crimp die. I'm not sure what the difference is, but is that important?

 

[sbcman]

Ok, so after your help, I made a half a dozen test rounds, and they seemed to shoot fine. Maybe a little light, but these are just plinking loads. So I loaded up 100 rounds. When I was putting the press away a couple nights later, I noticed that the seating die said on it that it was a taper crimp die. I'm not sure what the difference is, but is that important?

No, not important- that's just the type of die it is- taper instead of roll- kind of like a Lee FCD. As long as you wasn't getting tumbling bullets or bullets pulling from the cases, keep on keeping on. If you decide to bump into some HOT 38+p, just watch it, but I think it would be OK even at that.

 

[Fullmag]

If you do not instructions from RCBS, let me know, I can e-mail you a copy. Some of the best dies set-up reading available.

 

[kludge]

My procedure for setting up the seating/crimping die...

When first starting out, study some factory rounds to see what the factory crimp looks like for your cartridge and try to duplicate it.

I make a dummy round (no primer or powder) for each cartridge and bullet combination, setting up dies in the future for that bullet are are then very easy when you use it again.

With the sizing die deprime/size the case.

With the expander/charging die flare the case mouth so the bullet sits in the case mouth and doesn't fall out/over and no more.

Now... (and I broke it town into itty bitty steps... it's not as long and drawn out as it seems below)

1. Put a case in the shell holder and raise the ram.
2. Back the lock nut off most of the way.
3. Back the seating stem out most/all the way.
4. Screw the seating/crimping die into the press until you feel the die come in contact with the case.
5. Back the seating die out 1/2 turn.
6. Place a bullet on the case and raise the ram.
7. Screw the bullet seater in until you feel it come in contact with the bullet.
8. Lower the ram.
9. Screw in the seating die a little.
10. Raise the ram and partially seat the bullet.
11. Lower the ram.
12. Take the case out of the press and measure COL.

Repeat steps 9-12 until you have the desired COL. As you get close adjust the bullet seater 1/8 turn at a time.

When you have the desired COL go to step 13.

13. Back the seating stem out most of the way.
14. Raise the ram, screw in the seating die until you feel it make contact with the case.
15. Lower the ram.
16. Screw in the seating die 1/8 turn.
17. Raise the ram and crimp the bullet.
18. Lower the ram and inspect the crimp.

Repeats steps 15-18 until you have the desired amount of crimp. Then go to step 19.

19. Raise the ram and screw int he seating die, making sure it is in firm contact with the round (finger tight).
20. Hold the lever down firmly. Tighten the locknut on the die.
21. Hold the lever down firmly. Screw in the bullet seater until it makes contact with the bullet. Don't over tighten, with the mechanical advantage of a screw you can deform the bullet tip of some bullets and upset your setting.

22. Your die is now set to seat and crimp in one step, and you have a dummy round to make the setting again without any effort.

23. Now make a live cartridge. When your done check COL, inspect the crimp, if it's not right you can make adjustments, but it should be just like the dummy round you made.

 

[hockey3236]

3.2 is pretty light but pretty easy to shoot even in 2 in revolver. as far as the crip its pretty easy is really just a light kiss of down pressure in the seating die