5.45 Saiga conversion

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  • Clay

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 98.8%
    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    Over the weekend I started my 5.45x39 Saiga conversion to "standard" AK configuration. This will be a brief overview of what I did, and where I'm at.

    I didn't really document anything while in progress. I have a bad habit of once I get to moving I don't stop for pictures. The last picture in this post is of all the parts Ive removed from the rifle that will not be going back on. The only exception is the selector, and maybe the bolt hold open, maybe.

    Step 1: Completely disassembled the rifle down to the bare bones. The only thing left in it is the trigger group.

    Step 2: Trigger group removal. The first thing I did was take a 3/16" drill bit and on the right side of the receiver where the extra set of pins are flared (to hold them in), I drilled out the end just until they came out. Then I took a small punch and pushed them out of the receiver. This will release the trigger and extra "thingy" inside the receiver. Next I removed the 'sheapards hook', and pushed out the 2 normal trigger group pins. Remove all the "junk" from inside the rifle.

    Step 3: My only screw up, but it really aggravated me.... a lot. I'm usually more careful on things like this. The next step for me was installation of the bullet guide. You can do this any time you want, first, last, middle, doesn't matter. The bullet guide is left out of the front trunion as the Saiga mags have a built in bullet guide. The bullet guide facilitates the use of standard 30 round magazines. A nice feature of the 5.45 Saiga is that it will fit standard 5.45 magazines right out of the box, and they will function fairly well with out the bullet guide. Mine would FTFeed about every 5th round or so. The bullet guide should make it 100%. Anyway, to install the bullet guide from Dinzag arms, you simply place the bullet guide in position, center punch the hole you need to drill, then drill the hole with the supplied (if you order the kit) drill bit. Well this is where I screwed up. I should have left the bullet guide in place to act as a drilling guide, but I didn't. Somehow the drill walked while drilling the hole (even with a GREAT center punch to start on). The hole was off far enough that the only way to fix it was to weld it up. I figured if I was going to weld, I might as well weld in the bullet guide. Its a quick fix for the problem, but not how I wanted it.

    Step 4: Removal of trigger guard and mag release. The existing saiga trigger guard and mag release are separate pieces, unlike the "standard" ak format where they are one piece. Plus, the trigger guard is in the way of the pistol grip. SO, there are 3 rivets and 1 weld you need to drill out to get the trigger guard off. I simply center punched the 2 outside rivets, drilled them out, then center punched the weld, drilled it, then remove the trigger guard. Under the trigger guard is one more rivet, center punch, drill, then remove the entire trigger guard plate. The mag release is more of the same. Center punch 4 rivets, drill, remove. Might have to keep going to get the selector stop (under the mag release) off.

    Step 5: Front Sight Base (FSB) and Gas Block (GB) removal. The newer Saiga rifles FSB and GB are not pinned, the barrel is dimpled, and then the FSB and GB are pinched at the dimples to lock them onto the barrel. The first thing you need to do is drill out the dimples. I used an 1/8" drill bit, and drilled slowly. When you get to the bottom of each dimple (4 per piece) you will usually hear a small pop, and fell the drill move a bit. You can even hear the RPMs change after you clear the dimple. That barrel is HARD but be careful. After that you need to get them off. The easiest way to get them off is with a press. My press is still in pieces in multiple boxes, so I did it a different way. You can look at the last picture and see the aftermath. I cut a slice along the length of the GB and FSB with a die grinder and cut off wheel. Just enough to weaken the parts. Then a good wack with a hammer and off they came. More words of caution: 1) DON'T cut through the FSB or GB at the ends, or slip with your cut off wheel onto the barrel. If nothing else it just looks bad. 2) Don't hit the FSB or GB with a hammer and hit the barrel. It will leave a small ding. Not going to hurt the barrel, it just looks bad ;)

    Step 6: Filling in the extra holes. Once you have all the parts removed from your Saiga, you will find that there are multiple extra holes from the things that are not used on an AK. There are 4 holes for the extra trigger group pins, 2 extra holes under the funky Saiga trigger guard and plate, and 1 extra hole at the front where the saiga hand guard was installed. This is an important cosmetic step that you can do multiple ways. There are plugs available out there that just pop into the holes. They do the job just fine, but I wanted a more authentic look, so I welded mine up. Weld each hole, cut down with a course hand file, then work to a fine file. Dress up with a 3m flap wheel or scotch brite wheel. It takes time, but I like the look better.

    Next steps:

    1) Install new FSB and GB.
    2) rivet new trigger guard in place.
    3) refinish
    4) reassemble
    5) enjoy!

    Well, here are the pictures. I hope to follow this up with more as I get things completed.

    545saiga1.jpg


    545saiga2.jpg


    545saiga3.jpg


    545saiga4.jpg


    545saiga5.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    Clay

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 98.8%
    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    Or, I could have someone come over and help them do the conversion as well. I have thought about doing that once I have everything setup. Really, once I get everything ready to go, I could effectively do the conversion, short of a refinish, in a long afternoon.

    At this point, all the long/hard work is complete. I just need to press on a new GB and FSB, and put in 5 rivets. Once my press is setup, and I have a rivet jig for the trigger guard, Im golden!
     

    Juggernaut

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 22, 2010
    380
    16
    Owosso Mi
    True, but if he's not "engaged in the business," then it's a non-issue. So Clay could just do it as a favor for a friend. :)

    That is some very gray area....
    As long as he did not retain the rifle overnight....
    I'll talk to dinzag, he has more info on this than anyone...
    There are some definite stipulations..
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
    63
    Carthage IN
    That is some very gray area....
    As long as he did not retain the rifle overnight....
    I'll talk to dinzag, he has more info on this than anyone...
    There are some definite stipulations..


    not a gray area at all... if you do gun work for profit when the owner is not physically present WITH the firearm, then you need an ffl. it does NOT have to be a type 07 though.
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
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    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    Ok, back from the dead.

    Last weekend I got my press setup (that Ive had since January).

    Tonight I pressed my trigger guard rivets, and the gas block and front sight base on. Gas block and front sight base are Russian (ie $$), and trigger guard is bulgarian made to look ruski.

    I think it turned out pretty well, but Im unhappy with a couple of the rivets, so Ill probably drill them and try again. I guess thats the nice thing about rivets! ;)

    saiga74-1.jpg


    saiga74-2.jpg


    saiga74-3.jpg


    Ive already fit everything (handguards, stock, gas tube, etc), so the next steps are to test fire the rifle and make sure everything functions as it should. Then drill and pin the FSB and GB to the barrel. Once that is complete IGW will do a park with moly top coat to finish it off. Should be sweet once finished!
     

    SouthBendIN

    Marksman
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    0   0   0
    Dec 2, 2008
    205
    16
    South Bend
    are you installing a bullet guide? I took my stock 5.45 to the range a few days ago and it functioned perfect with the surplus bulgarian 30 round mags.
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 98.8%
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    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    Yes, I already installed a bullet guide. I took mine to the range in bone stock configuration and tried some 30 round mags for function. They fed ok, but none were 100% reliable, so for the piece of mind, and the ease of installation, I put in a bullet guide.
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 98.8%
    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    well nothing new to report. Im stuck at home today (oh yay!) and since I can't really leave and go to the match at Riley today, I decided to throw the rifle together. I might get a chance to run to the range and put a couple of mags through it to make sure everything is where I want it before I pin the FSB and GB on.

    saiga74.jpg
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
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    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    No, those are the correct 3mm pins, but I bought a couple of sets of bulgy barrel pins (rear sight block pin, GB pins, and FSB pins) off of 'valleyrat' on The AK Forum for like $5 per set. It was like $12 shipped for 2 complete sets. The killer for K-var is the shipping. You will have probably $8 or $9 shipping for just a few $ in pins.

    Personally, I would either go the way I did, OR go to your local industrial supply place (ie fastenal) and buy some drill rod in 3mm, or something close.
     

    SouthBendIN

    Marksman
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    Dec 2, 2008
    205
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    South Bend
    OK thanks for the quick reply. I already have the kvar pins on hand but thanks for the heads up on the alternatives. kvar does get you on shipping, thats for sure.
     

    Clay

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 98.8%
    81   1   0
    Aug 28, 2008
    9,648
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    Vigo Co
    and back from the dead again. "Mr.JAG"s 5.45 conversion thread got my juices flowing to finish my rifle. This past weekend I was home without the wifey and kids, so I took the garage. I finished welding up the bolt hold open hole, and the "S" and "F" markings. Then I washed down the entire rifle with mineral spirits and a small scrub brush and let it air dry. I then sprayed the rifle with 3 or 4 good coats of Dupli-Color "Low Gloss" 500 degree F engine paint, allowing it to air dry in the warm sun for a while between coats. Then I fired up the oven to 300 degrees F, and baked it for 2 hours.

    I think it turned out GREAT. Paint is an excellent match to the original dust cover as well, but it really brings out any imperfections in your metal work. Ive still got a couple of small places I will probably eventually work on a bit more, but I wanted the rifle in paint. Its had bare metal patches for 8 months now!

    Furniture is surplus bulgy 74 furniture with a iodine tinted amber shellac to mimic a typical russian finish (with out the rusky furniture price!).

    For those interested, 922r parts include:

    K-var plum grip (1)
    tapco FCG (3)
    Arsenal muzzle brake (1)

    So a total of 5. To be completely legal I have some 5.45 mags w/ US followers. Maybe one day Ill swap out the gas piston to get 6.

    saiga545comp-1.jpg

    saiga545comp-2.jpg
     
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