9mm help

[plinker1]

I just started reloading 9mm for my SR9c. This weekend I finally had a chance to shoot some. I am having problems with the slide completely closing (1 out of 10 or so). The round will chamber but the slide stops about 1/16" short, a simple bump at the rear of the slide seems to cure this. I shot about 200 rounds(reloads) and it happened pretty regular. Approx 150 rounds were lead bullets, 50 rounds were jacketed, I had this issue with both. I fired about 50 rounds of factory loads and had no issues.

As i was loading i stopped every 10-15 rounds and checked all dimensions and was always well within specs. I am loading on a Lee 4 stage turret press if this helps helps diagnose my issue.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Guys!

 

[Leadeye]

Check to see if your bullet profile is engaging the rifling early. Sometimes cartridges can be correct length but a profile that is wider to the nose will cause this trouble.

 

[17 squirrel]

I would suggest that you buy a Chamber guage and a Taper Crimp die.

 

[bigretic]

Check the OAL compared to factory rounds you know function well with the same bullet profile.

 

[plinker1]

I checked the OD and they were both the same.

 

[plinker1]

Check the OAL compared to factory rounds you know function well with the same bullet profile.

The OAL on the factory rounds is 1.105, mine were 1.110, if I have the right info it says the max is 1.169

 

[17 squirrel]

Do you have the sizer die adjusted correctly ?
Is the press caming over when you size ?

 

[Broom_jm]

Do you have the sizer die adjusted correctly ?
Is the press caming over when you size ?

Check the case head or just forward of the webbing...I think the above could be the issue.

 

[Restroyer]

I may be totally in left field on this but are the 200 reload cases that are jamming previously fired cases from your Ruger SR9c (previous factory loads that worked fine prior to reloading them) or are they brass casings that you bought specifically for reloading and had not been previously fired in your gun? The reason I ask is because my Ruger SR9c has a similar problem on specific factory loads. It works fine with Winchester Training, Winchester Nato, Federal, Magtech, and Herter's - they all cycle perfectly. However, it does jamb constantly on Fiocchi, PMC Bronze, & Tula. It may be that the Ruger Sr9c is being picky on the brass reload casings? Just throwing out a guess.

 

[plinker1]

I may be totally in left field on this but are the 200 reload cases that are jamming previously fired cases from your Ruger SR9c (previous factory loads that worked fine prior to reloading them) or are they brass casings that you bought specifically for reloading and had not been previously fired in your gun? The reason I ask is because my Ruger SR9c has a similar problem on specific factory loads. It works fine with Winchester Training, Winchester Nato, Federal, Magtech, and Herter's - they all cycle perfectly. However, it does jamb constantly on Fiocchi, PMC Bronze, & Tula. It may be that the Ruger Sr9c is being picky on the brass reload casings? Just throwing out a guess.

They are casings that were purchased for reloading. The factory rounds I fired were Remington, I may try to reload these casings and see what happens.

 

[plinker1]

Check the case head or just forward of the webbing...I think the above could be the issue.

I will double check this.

 

[Gluemanz28]

Invest in one of these L.E. Wilson Max Cartridge Gage 9mm Luger

 

[Vamptepes]

Also when you bell the casing to seat a bullet make sure your taking the bell out. I know some people who over expand there rounds and barely crimp then and have loading problems that way. You only need to expand the case mouth just enough to start the bullet.

 

[red_zr24x4]

I've had the same issue before, mine was the bullet profile engaging the rifling. Use your barrel as a guage, make sure the case head sits flush or just below the barrel hood.

 

[jglevyjr]

Invest in one of these L.E. Wilson Max Cartridge Gage 9mm Luger

I ALWAYS case gauge every single round (pistol or rifle). If it doesn't "plop" and drop out of its own free will, it doesn't get to my gun. Also when I plop a round in the case gauge, I run my finger over the primer just to make sure the round is flush with the case gauge and that the primer is properly seated and does not protrude. I do have a bulge buster, but if there are only 1 or 2 failed rounds out of 300 or 400 cartridges, I just pull 'em and they hit the trash; methinks: that brass just ain't right so let's shed it.

Before using the case gauge I did have some problems with brass (even getting rounds stuck hard in the chamber). After case gauge, I've never had a single round not go into battery or have any brass related ejection problems.

 

[chezuki]

After you've chambered one completely (including tapping the slide into battery as you described), eject the round. Are there rifling marks on the bullet? If so, that's your issue... too much OAL for the bullet profile. If no marks, I suspect you have an over flare/insufficient crimp issue.

 

[jglevyjr]

+1

 

[billybob44]

Case problems...

Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders
^^^

Get one of these..You will thank me after..

Also set up your dies with the barrel of the pistol the loads will be fired in...Drop in the loaded round..It should have the same "Plop" noise as a factory load.

Some bullet profiles just need to be seated deeper than others.

If seated deeper than data list, back off of your powder charge to avoid overpressure...Bill.

 

[Sniper 79]

I recently had same issue. Cleaned barrel and all is well. Had some buildup in front of the chamber.

 

[NoAdmiration]

You can adjust you OAL by using the chamber of you Ruger as a gauge. You should be able to drop the round in and out of the barrel without resistance.