A couple of newb questions

[mammynun]

First, I've meant to suggest this before but never gotten around to it... in the "knives for sale" it would help me (and probably others) if you posted a pic or two. Knife guys may all know what an "Emerson assisted Tomadagger with thumbhole" is, but I don't.

And so as not to thread jack esrice's thread, when doe a "liner lock" become a "frame lock?" I assume that the ZT on the left is a "frame lock," and the freebie 5.11 on the right is a "liner lock?"





Is my assumption is correct? Or all they all one or the other? The ZT and Kershaws are much more confidence inspiring, but the 5.11 is (to my eye) the same design executed in an inferior way. When does a liner lock become a frame lock? As you may have guessed, I buy knives based on feel with a minimum of research... I'm not a "knife guy" but I appreciate a well made knife. I stumbled upon Kershaw's, which took me to ZT and I haven't found the need to look at much of anything else.

Educate me.

 

[cubby]

Frame lock typically denotes a bare frame on the locking side. Generally but not always. - liner lock usually has a slab of material covering each side of the liners. Generally speaking.

all the pictured are liner locks except the leek. That is a frame lock, second from the left.

 

[mammynun]

Got it, I think. So the preference that some (most?) knife guys have for a frame lock is that when you're gripping the knife your hand encourages lock up? That's the difference that I can see, all other things being equal.
I bought this Spyderco online, and it's what convinced me to only buy knives in person... it seemed like a good knife (and it probably is, I just realized I could put the clip where I want it), but I don't really care for the spine lock and the thumb hole doesn't work very well for me. And its grip "feels" cheap compared to my Kershaws. It lives in my trucks visor cover. I guess I'm just going through the process of figuring out what works for me.

 

[RAMBOCAT]

Really, I think it all boils down to personal preference. I own both, and as long as they have a good, solid lockup it doesn't make any difference to me.

 

[prescut]

hey guys,
can you tell me what that second knife from the left is? looks all silver colored.
thanks
lost

 

[jagee]

hey guys,
can you tell me what that second knife from the left is? looks all silver colored.
thanks
lost

Looks like a Kershaw Leek, to me.

 

[mammynun]

It is indeed a Kershaw Leek.

 

[usmcdjb]

Got it, I think. So the preference that some (most?) knife guys have for a frame lock is that when you're gripping the knife your hand encourages lock up? That's the difference that I can see, all other things being equal.
I bought this Spyderco online, and it's what convinced me to only buy knives in person... it seemed like a good knife (and it probably is, I just realized I could put the clip where I want it), but I don't really care for the spine lock and the thumb hole doesn't work very well for me. And its grip "feels" cheap compared to my Kershaws. It lives in my trucks visor cover. I guess I'm just going through the process of figuring out what works for me.

Spyderco uses FRN for the handles (fiberglass reinforced nylon) on some knives. I think their knives with that material come in at a lower pricepoint, so I suppose you could say they are cheaper. But of all the spydies that I have, I carry an FRN Endura.

I think the spyder hole just takes getting used to it. If you use it exclusively for a while, then try something else, the new thing will feel awkward. I carried a Leek for years before switching to spyderco, and it felt odd to even have to open the blade, since a little flick of the index finger brings the blade out on the Leek.

My Endura is also a back lock. Not sure that I have a preference, as long as the thing stays locked up. Obviously, all locking mechanisms can fail. Which would obviously not be good.

But you probably are in the figuring out process. I had a Gerber EZ Out years ago. Went to a Kershaw Blackout. Then the Leek. Then my Endura. I did try a Strider for 1 day, but I just felt uncomfortable carrying a $400 pocket knife. I'd be less sick if I lose my Spyderco, and could replace it much easier. I'm not sure I have it all figured out yet, and keep looking at options.

 

[Faine]

Carry knives are very touch and go based on the end user and their needs/desires. I personally will only own a folder that is frame or axis style lock. Liner locks give me problems because my hand rubs when I use the knife and I have squeezed the liner out of locking position and pinched my skin between the liner and backplane of the frame. Frame locks I don't have that issue with for whatever reason. I don't like back locks as a general rule and I abhor opening bolts. It's gotta be a nub or hole, I'd be ok with a flipper too.

See how easy it is to drone on about knives? I felt the cheaper Spyderco knives were cheap in my hand and I didn't bother with them. When I held a titanium sage II though, it was perfect for me. The cheapness disappeared rather quickly. Obviously if price point is a concern you may not get into the nicer Spyderco knives that hang out in the 150usd and up range. I would recommend giving them a look though as the quality increases drastically and not just handle material, they use better blade steel as well.

 

[Onionsanddragons]

Knives are like sandwiches, in a lot of ways really. Everybody has their own favorites and there are only some points that can be factually argued.

Knife sandwich (linerlock): Handle material (scale. like G10 or FRN) | Metal liner with locking bar | Blade | Metal liner | Handle material
Knife sandwich (framelock): Ti or Steel frame with locking bar | Blade | Ti or steel frame with or without handle scale material

Hope that is clarifying. Generally, the strength and load capacity of a liner and frame lock are pretty similar as long as we hold build quality and lock geometry as equal. Basically, a good maker will have similar force tolerances for both his/her liner and frame locks. Framelocks have been criticized for longevity due to the interaction between Titanium of the frame and the lock side of the harder steel blade can eventually wear down the Ti, but the fact that you are gripping the lock into the mechanism helps offset this possible failure. Also, many makers are now using hardened steel inserts in their lockbars at the locking point to entirely negate this issue.

Backlocks tend to be able to sustain greater loads before failure than either of the above mechanisms, but if it is a cheapo backlock the handle material becomes a weak point in high stress applications.

That being said, any lock CAN FAIL. A better made lock will be much less likely to do so.