A hand loading tips thread

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  • redneckmedic

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    Anyone have any think smarter not harder tips for hand loading? I have found a few, that may or may not be known.

    Since I use a case lube and pad set vs. one-shot and a baggie I have to wipe off the excess lube. I do this when I prime my round, as I have a firm grip from the bottom of the case and its exposed from the rim up.

    I also use the hand priming tool to hold the case when I chamfer and deburr it.

    I know a few folks that use a web cam to watch the scale for when the weigh the powder. This is a two fold idea IMO, it keeps you from leaning in and staring at the lines, but as it was pointed out to me today, its best purpose is to keep your line of sight from the same point every time, this way you have the same angle on the line to line relationship.... more accurate weigh.

    What tips do you have?
     

    6birds

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    For years i bought supplies and had my little brother do it.... best trick ever. Now that he has kids, he gave me all my stuff back.

    A cheap set of cotton gloves works well for application of lube, without having the mess run away on you.

    All the cases lay on their side while priming, lube, etc., only stand them up AFTER adding powder, reduces the chance of a double charge.

    For small bullets and primers, my 8 yr old handles thing better than I, (small fingers, great dexterity), kids are a very important part of reloading.
     

    WLW

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    I did like 6birds and had my bro' do it till he had a family. It's all on me now and so is his stuff! :)

    I can't say I have any specific tips because I follow the standard procedures that I was trained on in a NRA reloading class. I can offer the following if you are using an electronic scale (I'm a geek in hiding).

    I studied how electronic sales (at least the three I've been exposed to) require you to provide a stable power source and my two Lyman's strongly suggest you leave them on for 24 hours before calibrating and using them.

    I got to thinking about how unstable your house electric service can be as it does fluctuate rather gently and it requires continuos monitoring of the voltage meter to determine that (but all commercial service does this). Anyway, I placed a voltage conditioner in line with the power strip that supplies my scales. It protects your scales from seeing any of the mild fluctuations and small brown outs we can all experience in our homes. You can find them at electronic stores in the computer section. I believe it provides extra comfort in knowing your scales are powered by a good source and are able to remain stable which should translate into consistent and accurate measurements.

    Just my tidbit of info on reloading.
     

    hornadylnl

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    I started off with a lee beam scale that came with my lee reloading kit. Hated it. I couldn't make out the lines on it to get an accurate weight. I then bought an electronic scale (cabelas brand I believe) and quickly lost trust in it. It seemed like I was constantly checking it with the weights as the powder weight was all over the place. I got a hornady beam scale in the lnl kit and love it. It's magnetically dampened or something so it doesn't bounce all over the place. The only way I'll buy another electronic scale is if I get a dispenser with scale built in.
     

    Aszerigan

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    1) Buy yourself a headspace gauge for all the calibers you load regularly. You'll never accidentally mis-read the new OAL.

    2) Wear latex gloves when you reload - the brass may look clean, but its not. You absorb all kinds of chemicals and metals through your skin. When you do, you'll go to bed tasting metal in your mouth.

    3) Don't buy cheap equipment to save a few dollars. Buy it once, and buy the best to begin with. You'll only replace cheap equipment later anyway.

    4) Take the TV out of your reloading room.
     
    Last edited:

    1$Chuck

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    I use a universal decapping die to knock the primers out, then tumble to clean the brass. I use quick shot lube and size the brass. Then I retumble to get the lube back off.

    After that:

    I like using the Lee case trimmers combined with a lock stud in a cordless drill. Once the case is in the lock stud, I trim to length, then chamfer inside and out and then brush the inside of the neck. Then touch the case mouth with some steel wool to remove any burrs. If its new brass, I also deburr the flash hole too. Then I hit them with some flitz on a microfiber rag to really make them shine. All of this takes place while the case is being spun by the cordless drill. If you've got all your tools layed out you can run them all through a case pretty quick.

    Then I put the flash hole cleaning tool into my cordless drill and clean all the flash holes.

    Then its just standard assembly
     
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    1$Chuck

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    Well... I didn't buy a cement mixer, but I did buy a extra large rock tumbler and man does it do a good job on the brass. Quieter than my vibratory tumbler which is a plus.


    Are you using this with stainless media? What rock tumbler do you recommend?
     

    Slapstick

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    I use "rubber fingers" , those little rubber finger ends for sorting paper instead of latex gloves. My hands get too hot in the gloves and the rubber fingers give me a better grip on the case. One other tip, don't let the cat near your reloading bench. Thousands of shinny objects equals a lot of play as they bat them around.
     

    hip shot

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    for shotgun reloads, put your wads in a garbie bag spray them with armerall shake em up then let they dry, it makes them real slick and they fly through the wad guide and shell.........................
     

    WLW

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    Are you using this with stainless media? What rock tumbler do you recommend?


    Well I am not sure what stainless media is... I use just good ol' walnut media that you can get in bulk at either a pet supply store (for Lizard bedding) or Harbor Freight. Corn cob media for the final step.

    The tumbler is a Lortone QT12 which is a 12 lbs. unit and is the biggest they make. They are not cheap new ( kind of a pro-am model) before making the final step to a professional tumbler. You can find them on eBay for an acceptable price. The nice thing about Lortone is you can buy all the parts for them (minus the frame) to them going for a long time!

    They're quiet because they're belt/pulley driven instead of gear driven. The tub is made of a solid rubber with a lid that seal tight so it contains the noise of the media and brass very well. My wife never says a word about when I use it (in the basement), and I forget about it if I don't set a reminder on my phone. When I use the vibratory cleaner... you can't forget unless you can't hear. :)
     

    IndyGunworks

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    on a progressive w/ pistol calibers spray a healthy dose of oneshot into the box where you keep all the brass.. will make sizing go alot smoother and faster.
     
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