Accurizing A Mosin-Nagant

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  • Rating - 100%
    28   0   0
    Oct 3, 2008
    4,193
    149
    On a hill in Perry C
    Here you can see the little square cut out that goes under the action.

    56e8dd55.jpg


    I didn't use any adhesive at all because I didn't see anywhere that said to use it. I did put each 1x2" strip under the barrel bands though to hold them in place. The whole gun feels so much more solid and sturdy. I'll report back tomorrow with how it shoots.

    Looks good except for one thing. Where you have the cork for the front action screw is not the best place. You're recoil lug may bottom out too hard, and that's not good. The wood there is very thin, and if you put too much pressure on it there is a good possibility for a crack.The Finns whose examples I follow, put their front shim under the receiver itself, between the recoil lug and magazine mortises. In your pic above, that's the area where the wood is stained. That puts the pressure on a thicker, stronger section of the stock. Also, some shimming on the rear of the recoil lug doesn't hurt anything. Use metal stock there as you don't want any compression of the shim to occur.
     

    N_K_1984

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    54   0   0
    Dec 15, 2009
    1,406
    38
    sharing my progress

    Went to the range Saturday for some practice with my 1911 and brought the M44 with some Sellier & Bellot 174gr Match ammo in tow.

    The first target was shot cold bore with 5 shots just as sighters.

    IMGA0003_2.jpg


    The second target was shot with 10 rounds, rifle was warming up and I was still a little shaky. Trigger squeeze was not the best on a few shots. I knew it wasn't my finest go `round. Yeah, this one was all over the place... (facepalm)

    IMGA0004_2.jpg


    I started in on the 3rd group and choked 3 shots. I tore the target down and started fresh. (again, facepalm) On to the next target...

    IMGA0005_3.jpg


    The fourth, and final target I shot was "for all the marbles" that afternoon, as I had been shooting the 1911 for the previous 4 hours and was fixing to go home... The barrel was warmed up, and had only cooled from the previous shots in as long as it took me to walk 100 yards, tear down and staple a new target up, then walk back... So, the barrel was warm, and as I finished had quite a lot of heat mirage (in the glass), so I know the barrel was hot. Still a good 10 shot group. I was pleased. It was a definite improvement from the Winchester FMJ ammo.

    IMGA0006_3.jpg


    Next time I head to the range, I plan on spending some more time with the M44 (as it's FUN as hell to shoot anyway) and try to tighten up my groups through better breathing and trigger squeeze. I think mechanics are my enemy here.

    Josh, I think we're just going to have to meet up sometime and shoot. Like I had previously stated, I think the rifle is there, I'm not. I think ammo was a crucial part of the equation. Plus, Practice will make perfect. I'm pumped anyway, this is a 65 year old rifle and barrel, so I'm more than pleased.
     
    Last edited:

    pinshooter45

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Sep 1, 2009
    1,962
    48
    Indianapolis
    Lot's of good advice!

    Been spending lots lots of time looking at u-tube video's. There are several on accurizing Mosins. One of the best that seems to make the most sense is from some guy that goes by Spartan some thing I think (looked at so many lost track) He claims to do it like the Russian snipers did it WWII. He uses flatened brass from 8mm clips to shim the reciever from the top and bottom. Sands the stock to float the barrel. then wraps electrical tape on the barrel in a certain area near the end of the stock. Not sure I like that, heat from repeated fireing might get messy. He a little long winded but his methods look sound and very simalar to what I have seen here. Personally I think the brass shims on the recever looks good, but I think cork or gasket material is a better choice than electrical tape. Once I take mine out and shoot it at 100yrds for a reference, I'll start seriously looking at the different methods. My main problem with Spartans instructions is he does not tell how he determines how many shims to use and exactly where to place the electrical tape. So looks like more research is needed and some experimentation. Any way looks like a good project to keep me busy for the summer.
     
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