AK-74 Zeroing Procedure

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  • jeff242

    Plinker
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Mar 13, 2012
    86
    8
    This is the result of some Googling, but since there's just less AK74 info and it sometimes gets mixed up with AK47 info, I thought I'd past what I found here and see if it looked like the right procedure to the group. Any feedback and/or other tips are welcome. I'm hoping to put this to use this weekend. Thanks!

    ***** BASIC PROCEDURE *****

    Establish Zero
    The following procedure will establish a zero at 25 meters, and your AK-74 will be set with a 1000 meter battle sight zero. This means that all shots will be within a 16" circle at all ranges up to 1000 meters.

    Establish Mechanical Zero
    Slide the spring loaded catcher down until the range scale 1 (100-meter) mark is aligned with the spring loaded catcher.
    Carefully aim and fire each shot of a 3-shot group at a paper target set up at 25 meters. If your shots are not striking the point-of-aim, then adjust your sights.
    To raise the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the down direction (clockwise)
    To lower the next shot group, rotate the front sight post in the up direction (counter-clockwise)
    To move the next shot group left, turn the rear sight windage knob counterclockwise, or drift the front sight to the right.
    To move the next shot group right, turn the rear sight windage knob clockwise, or drift the front sight to the left.
    Continue to fire 3-shot groups and adjust the sights until you have a tight group at the point of aim.
    Once this is done, rifle is now combat-zeroed all other ranges on the elevation knob are also zeroed

    ***** RECOMMENDED PROCESS *****

    Set your target at 25 M(meters). 27 Yards is the same distance as 25 Meters.

    Set your rear elevation slide to 100 on your AK.

    • This assumes you are using a POA/POI hold, if you use a 6 O'clock hold, this may not work as well.)
    • (This also assumes you are using surplus/62gr. 5.45 ammo at about 2900 fps.

    Given the above, at 25M, your round should impact almost exactly 1" low from your point of aim (center of bullseye).

    Adjust your front sight (leave the rear at 100) to bring your groups centered exactly 1" below your point of aim (center of bullseye at 25M).

    This will put you in the ballpark, and keep your rifle synched with your elevation slide.

    Now leave your rear sight at 100, and move your target to 50M (meters). 54 Yards is the same distance as 50 Meters.

    At 50 M, you will shoot almost exacty POI/POA. Your group should actually be about 1/16" below your point of aim, but I wouldn't quibble over 1/16". Basically at 50m, your group should be dead center of your bullseye.

    Make any adjustments you need to at 50M (front sight only, leave the rear at 100).

    Now set your target at 100M and confirm your zero/make any fine tune adjustments.

    Doing the initial zero at 25M, than moving back to 50M, then confirming at 100M will save you some time and frustration.

    Here is how your POI should shift at 25M with your different elevation settings:
    • POA = Center of Bullseye at 25M
    • POI 100 Setting - 1 inch low (-1")
    • POI 200 Setting - 1/2 inch low (-1/2")
    • POI 300 Setting - 1/2 inch high (+1/2")
    • POI 400 Setting - 1 1/4 inches high (+1 1/4")
    • POI 500 Setting - 2 1/2 inches high (+2 1/2")
    • POI 600 Setting - 4 inches high (+4")oed, so to engage target at say 500 meters, turn the spring loaded catcher to 5.
     

    Horse

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    May 27, 2011
    278
    16
    Bloomington
    Great info on how to accomplish the zero procedure.

    I would change one thing however:
    POA/POI at 100M not 50

    I recieved this information from Larry Vickers who has years of understanding, application and personal safety from using 100M zero. Works very well for me and any ranges I will be using 5.45 to engage from.

    Using 5.45 at 1000M? Not even ballpark.
     
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