And yet another 1911 question thread.lol

[Facemelter]

I have a remington R1 (standard) that I bought some new parts for.

The parts I bought are; new main spring housing,hammer,and Bomar sights. The Bomar sights are being installed and Im having the slide cut for them.

My questions are centered around the hammer install. From what I have read,this is not a drop in and go. Any one have any info on hammer install's on these things? Oh,and I will be buying a new hammer strut and pin,since the damn thing will not come out. Anything else I should replace while I am in there?

 

[SERparacord]

If you have never installed a hammer, I recommend you let a smith do it.

1911 Build 06?Trigger Job - YouTube

Best place for 1911 knowledge.
http://forum.m1911.org/forumdisplay.php?f=117

 

[Facemelter]

I have never installed one before. I have done all previous work to all my pistols and rifles. But if this is out of my league,Ill send it to some one that knows.

The thing I dont know though,is any Smiths around the Cincinnati area that specialize in 1911's.

 

[SERparacord]

I have never installed one before. I have done all previous work to all my pistols and rifles. But if this is out of my league,Ill send it to some one that knows.

The thing I dont know though,is any Smiths around the Cincinnati area that specialize in 1911's.

You can try your own, just be very careful and fully research all that needs to be done. Then buy two of each part you are going to replaced.
Hammer and sear need to be fitted carefully to each other. No matter who you buy them from, final stoning needs to be done.

Ed Brown 1911 handguns, 1911 parts
I did my first trigger job myself. Hint, never test them with a full mag, a full auto 1911 is not fun.

Contact INGO member AllenM. If he is not buried in work he can help you.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/diamond-collision/318092-gunsmithing-status.html

 

[PGRChaplain]

Use a Stone and Emery Cloth. This lets you carefully fit the parts. Never use a Dremmel tool or other Power Tool for fitting firearm parts. That equates to using a Chainsaw to trim a Rose bush. Take your time, It's not a difficult job.

 

[Facemelter]

Ok,so let me run some questions by you. I have done some reading and the dremel is a NO-NO. with that being said,I have no problems sitting down and cleaning and smoothing things with a stone.

First question. You said the sear and hammer need to be stoned. Do I need to replace the sear with a new one? Or will the orginal one work?

 

[SERparacord]

Ok,so let me run some questions by you. I have done some reading and the dremel is a NO-NO. with that being said,I have no problems sitting down and cleaning and smoothing things with a stone.

First question. You said the sear and hammer need to be stoned. Do I need to replace the sear with a new one? Or will the orginal one work?

The original should work, but I would smooth it out too since it is a factory part.

Best sear jig I have found.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/469756/ed-brown-sear-fixture-1911

 

[Facemelter]

Ok,would there be any timing involved in the trigger,sear and hammer? Or is that what I would be doing with stoning? I do not have an adjustable trigger. Just what ever was factory.

And I am watching that video of that guy doing the stoning job and install you posted. Very informative.

 

[SERparacord]

Ok,would there be any timing involved in the trigger,sear and hammer? Or is that what I would be doing with stoning? I do not have an adjustable trigger. Just what ever was factory.

And I am watching that video of that guy doing the stoning job and install you posted. Very informative.

It's not really timing, getting the mating surfaces smooth and parallel is what makes a smooth trigger. You Tube has many good videos for 1911's.

 

[churchmouse]

You can try your own, just be very careful and fully research all that needs to be done. Then buy two of each part you are going to replaced.
Hammer and sear need to be fitted carefully to each other. No matter who you buy them from, final stoning needs to be done.

Ed Brown 1911 handguns, 1911 parts
I did my first trigger job myself. Hint, never test them with a full mag, a full auto 1911 is not fun.

Contact INGO member AllenM. If he is not buried in work he can help you.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/diamond-collision/318092-gunsmithing-status.html

Allen is not taking any new work in for a while. He is swamped in his other business conserns.

Had a 1911 that liked full auto. Scary.

OP...if you do the research and buy the tools it is not a hard thing to do. There are factors to be considered.
Again...there are tools and jigs available to make this a thing that can be done by a hobbyist. I just do not recommend it.

 

[Facemelter]

Ok,I might just have to send it off. I dont want to get half way in this thing with crap strewn everywhere and have to pack it up and salvage what I have left.

It sounds like some thing I can do,but it also sounds like some thing that would drive me bat**** crazy.

 

[Double T]

Any time one of the sear engagment parts is changed, you should change the other "half" as well. Don't mix and match due to hardness/heat treat issues. You don't want your hammer wearing down the sear shelf or vise versa.

 

[Facemelter]

you mean the half as the hammer I bought? I should change the sear also because of metal hardness?

Understandable. Sounds like I need to make another order.

 

[SERparacord]

you mean the half as the hammer I bought? I should change the sear also because of metal hardness?

Understandable. Sounds like I need to make another order.

Always buy quality parts then hardness is not in the equation. I recommend Ed Brown Hardcore or Wilson Combat bulletproof parts. They have lifetime warranties.

 

[Facemelter]

Hmm,didnt know the bulletproof line from Wilson is life time. My local shop has an account with them,Ill go ahead and make another order.

 

[Facemelter]

Ok,I decided to tear my 1911 apart tonight and see what im working with.

I have some more questions. The sear stop on the hammer is supposed to be around .020. The stop on the factory hammer is spot on at 020,the new hammer I bought is right at 010. Which from what Im reading is a little to small. Am I supposed to stone that down to about 020-024? Or did they send me a wrong cut or what?

 

[churchmouse]

Ok,I decided to tear my 1911 apart tonight and see what im working with.

I have some more questions. The sear stop on the hammer is supposed to be around .020. The stop on the factory hammer is spot on at 020,the new hammer I bought is right at 010. Which from what Im reading is a little to small. Am I supposed to stone that down to about 020-024? Or did they send me a wrong cut or what?

Are you using a jig to set this up????

 

[Facemelter]

Im not doing anything yet. Im getting all my ducks in a row. I like to check everything out before I go chainsawing the Rose bush's.haha

I will be ordering the correct jigs and stones tomorrow. I just looked at my new hammer tonight and had seen that the sear stop was a little small. Is that common,and I have to stone it into the size I need,or is this new hammer not the one I want? I can send it back and get a different one if need be.

 

[churchmouse]

Im not doing anything yet. Im getting all my ducks in a row. I like to check everything out before I go chainsawing the Rose bush's.haha

I will be ordering the correct jigs and stones tomorrow. I just looked at my new hammer tonight and had seen that the sear stop was a little small. Is that common,and I have to stone it into the size I need,or is this new hammer not the one I want? I can send it back and get a different one if need be.

10 is light. I always order the sear and hammer together. No MIM parts. I have mixed and matched bits and pieces with "mixed" results. There are kits from Wilson and Baer available. Brownells is your friend. They have staff that can answer most all of your questions when placing an order but you have to call and speak with them.
I can not tell you much without having the parts right in front of me.

 

[Double T]

so it's measuring 0.010? and spec is 0.020? And you're asking if you should remove material?

Please give it to a gunsmith.