Anyone know anything about Webley revolvers?

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  • kawtech87

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    I was randomly gifted a Webley DAO revolver chambered is .38 S&W. I know nothing about these and its not really my style. But it's neat and I also got a box of ammo with it so I may shoot it I may not. I'd say it's in decent condition, probably 40% bluing left intact, all numbers I can find match. What I'm wanting to know is possible value and what I should look for in order to know if it's shootable. What does INGO say?

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    More can be had if needed.
     

    Cameramonkey

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    I’m not an expert but I own a mark IV in 38 as well.

    If that’s a IV, it’s broken. It’s not DAO firearmAFAIK.
     

    Leadeye

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    I think that's an Enfield 2 MK 1 and that's the correct hammer. The WW2 guns were plastic gripped and DA only.

    Different companies made these, and I would figure out who as some are quite valuable. Many were destroyed in various commonwealth gun confiscations. The answer will probably be in the markings between the trigger and grips.

    Best of luck with it.

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    kawtech87

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    I think that's an Enfield 2 MK 1 and that's the correct hammer. The WW2 guns were plastic gripped and DA only.

    Different companies made these, and I would figure out who as some are quite valuable. Many were destroyed in various commonwealth gun confiscations. The answer will probably be in the markings between the trigger and grips.

    Best of luck with it.

    View attachment 350668
    Thanks! The marking between the trigger and grip isn't the clearest. Looks like and upside down G then an I and a proof mark of some kind. I'm guessing wartime markings, Maybe. Any good ideas on where to find a list of maker's marks? 20240504_115845.jpg

    No other visible maker's marks but tons of obviously English proof marks.
     
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    DadSmith

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    I was randomly gifted a Webley DAO revolver chambered is .38 S&W. I know nothing about these and its not really my style. But it's neat and I also got a box of ammo with it so I may shoot it I may not. I'd say it's in decent condition, probably 40% bluing left intact, all numbers I can find match. What I'm wanting to know is possible value and what I should look for in order to know if it's shootable. What does INGO say?

    View attachment 350648
    View attachment 350649
    View attachment 350650

    More can be had if needed.
    Have one just like it. About the same condition. Just remember they need .360 caliber bullets if you are reloading. You can get by with .358 I have shot mine and accurately with .358 caliber bullets.

    What I've seen is $350-750 depending on condition. The one for $750 looked like it came out if the factory a day ago.
     
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    Leadeye

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    Thanks! The marking between the trigger and grip isn't the clearest. Looks like and upside down G then an I and a proof mark of some kind. I'm guessing wartime markings, Maybe. Any good ideas on where to find a list of maker's marks? View attachment 350684

    No other visible maker's marks but tons of obviously English proof marks.

    The E/D combination means that it was made by Enfield armory, the I means it is a Mark 1. During WW2 these things were contract made in different places around the commonwealth like Scotland and Australia. Much like a 1911A1 made by Union Switch and Signal or Singer those command more money with collectors.
     

    TheJoker

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    Originally designed in 1922 by Webley & Scott; but, their design was hijacked by Enfield. Webley was eventually awarded 1200 pounds to reimburse for development costs. I've got a book that is excellent resource. ".380 Enfield No. 2 Revolver" by Mark Stamps and Ian Skennerton. The ** means it is the simplified model which were bobbed hammer(...at the request of the Tank corps), DAO and lacked the transfer bar safety(...the latter two as cost saving/production simplification measure).

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    They called the bob-hammered models "Tanker". Although, after shooting steel knock down targets with it once, were I a tank crewman, armed with one of these pistol...I'd stay in my tank. The puny .38 S&W wouldn't knock the targets down. I believe the .380 British Service ammunition was loaded a bit hotter than .38 S&W. I have an example of a No .2 Mark I** that was manufactured by Scottish Auto Maker, Albion.

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    Calvin

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    I have a .455 Mk VI that has been shaved down for .45 on moon clips like alot of them are. I do a hand load with soft lead bullets to keep it within .455 pressures. It is probably the finest nightstand gun ever produced. Easy to eject, easy to reload in the dark. Positronic in every aspect. I love it. Wish they made a modern replica in Turkey.
     

    Slow Hand

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    The Brit’s called their version of the 38 S&W a .38/200, because it used a 200 gr bullet. Somehow their math worked out that a 38 (.360”) bullet of 200gr wegut in that tiny little case produced nearly as much power and way less recoil than the 455 Webley/Eley/etc

    i believe the hammerless versions were called Tanker models.
    It looks like it has a double broad arrow marking, that kind of looks like an X with a dash through it. It’s actually the brand arrow marking with another touching the point that shows it was legally sold out of service (and not stolen). Not that it matter because those dumb limeys made pretty much all handguns illegal just a few short years after WWII…

    I have a MkIV, which is a pre-WWI version in 455 that has been shaved to use 45 acp in moon clips. I load a hollow based round nosed bullet in 45 auto rim cases and call them 45 Fauxbly and it’s a lot of fun to shoot.

    Not up on current WWII values. But it won’t hurt it to take it out and shoot it some. They are neat guns and top breaks are a lot of fun to use. 38 S&W ammo generally comes with a dead soft 146gr round nose so it will probably hit a bit off of the sights, but will still be safe and fun to take out occasionally.
     
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