AR "locking" charging handle purpose?

[ditcherman]

Why? Well, let me tell you.

Basic Training. My first day on the range. My first round. I inserted the magazine, pulled the charging handle to the rear and released it, took the weapon off safe, took aim and fired.

The charging handle did not lock and it slid back (not with the full force of the bolt carrier) justt slowly tapped me very lightly in my cheek just below my eye.

I developed in that one incident a years long flinch that kept me a marksman for years.

That sounds like it could belong in Sigblasters malfunction thread.
I can see why that would give you a flinch.
It doesn’t take much to hold it, as proven by the light springs on my Strike Industries, but it does take something. Makes me want to do some experimenting and make a video.

 

[ditcherman]

When OP says modifications I'm not sure if that means modifications by users, or the wide range of various designs in the marketplace. Folks have pretty well covered the reason for the charging handle to lock into place, but the purpose of a lot of diverse lever designs on charging handles is not so much to facilitate the unlocking as it is to facilitate racking the bolt carrier with the charging handle, usually trying to make that easier to do from one or both sides with one hand only. Then you have designs like the Gasbuster to reduce gas blowing by the back of the charging handle, esp. shooting with suppressors.

I’ve not seen user mods, I was just referencing the different styles from manufacturers. I’ve had some pretty large handles on race guns, so large that they poked me a bit when slung.
This one I’m currently complaining about is just extremely hard to unlock if there is any rearward pressure already applied to the handle, and unlike others, you can’t pinch it open, yet the handle is not long enough to overcome the force of the spring combined with aforementioned rearward pressure.

 

[2A_Tom]

That sounds like it could belong in Sigblasters malfunction thread.
I can see why that would give you a flinch.
It doesn’t take much to hold it, as proven by the light springs on my Strike Industries, but it does take something. Makes me want to do some experimenting and make a video.

Interesting reply. Thanks for your insight.

 

[ditcherman]

Interesting reply. Thanks for your insight.

Did I miss something?
I meant no offense, and I’ll be the first to admit there is always room for me to learn something...

 

[2A_Tom]

Sorry, in my dyslexia I added an 't to can.

I always teach to make sure that the charging handle is locked forward.

 

[ditcherman]

Sorry, in my dyslexia I added an 't to can.

I always teach to make sure that the charging handle is locked forward.

Haha, that would change the tone, thanks for the clarification.

I bet you do teach that, something that most just take completly for granted. Good to know.

 

[dereedy]

Is there one brand of charging handle that you prefer most? I've only use the normal government issued models in the past but I might upgrade one of my rifles.

 

[Route 45]

Is there one brand of charging handle that you prefer most? I've only use the normal government issued models in the past but I might upgrade one of my rifles.

I like my Radian Raptors. Not impressed with Strike Industries, the spring is too light and it unlocks too easily. Also have a BCM on one rifle and like it.

 

[ditcherman]

Is there one brand of charging handle that you prefer most? I've only use the normal government issued models in the past but I might upgrade one of my rifles.

I believe it all goes back to your needs; I have seen longer handles on race or contest guns, I had a really sturdy charging handle on an 5.45x39 upper once, the previous owner said you put the butt on the ground and use your heel to unjam it. I don't recall needing to do that but didn't keep it long.
There are so many ways to skin a cat on this one. I've never had a handle I didn't like, including the Strike Industries, unless it poked me while slung, or was too stiff/hard to open like the new BCM mod 4b.
I have some $25 generics that I can't tell from the BCM's in use. I guess if you can fondle them before buying it would be optimum.
Just keep in mind, every upgrade should have a purpose, and if it ain't broke, don't fix it. It all goes back to purpose IMO.