ar,promag castle nut (stock)wrench fail

[nova512]

Some of you might laugh at this. So I bought a single point sling piece for my ar. I had bought a stock wrench at the last 1500,and I tried to loosen the castle nut ,big fail lol. Thinking I did something wrong I go to youtube looking for some vids to see if I did,I did. In the first vid I watched the guy said for the love of god dont buy a wrench like this and think your going to get the nut loose. Which was very close to the wrench I had,then he showed the recommended wrench. Feeling stupid and not wanting to spend more money on buying and shipping the proper wrench I made my own. I went to homedepot bought some strip steel and used my jewelry saw and cut it out worked like a charm.

 

[shooter521]

Out of curiosity, which wrench did the YouTuber recommend? The best multi-function AR armorer's wrench I've ever found is the one made and sold by...








































Olympic Arms. I **** you not!

The cheapie TAPCO castle nut wrenches seem to work pretty well too for what they are, but you don't get the barrel nut end of things, nor enough length to get good leverage w/o the use of a cheater bar or torque wrench.

 

[nova512]

AR-Stoner Multi-Tool AR-15 Steel - MidwayUSA

 

[shooter521]

AR-Stoner Multi-Tool AR-15 Steel - MidwayUSA

Gah. I can't stand any wrench with that "hammered" or "krinkle" finish; IME, it is put on after the openings are cut, and it's thick enough to change their dimensions. I also don't like wrenches that have the castle nut and barrel nut openings facing opposite directions, as it prevents you from getting a really good hold on the other end to apply leverage without poking or cutting yourself.

Here's the Oly wrench:

Steel (stainless?) construction, left "in the white" so all opening sizes are correct. Pegs on one side of the barrel nut end for free-float tube nuts, teeth on the other side for standard nuts. The castle nut end will work on old-style or new-style nuts, and even has a flat-head screwdriver blade for removing rear sling swivels or dismounting an A1/A2 type stock from its tube.

 

[loony1]

Gah. I can't stand any wrench with that "hammered" or "krinkle" finish; IME, it is put on after the openings are cut, and it's thick enough to change their dimensions. I also don't like wrenches that have the castle nut and barrel nut openings facing opposite directions, as it prevents you from getting a really good hold on the other end to apply leverage without poking or cutting yourself.

Here's the Oly wrench:

Steel (stainless?) construction, left "in the white" so all opening sizes are correct. Pegs on one side of the barrel nut end for free-float tube nuts, teeth on the other side for standard nuts. The castle nut end will work on old-style or new-style nuts, and even has a flat-head screwdriver blade for removing rear sling swivels or dismounting an A1/A2 type stock from its tube.

I agree, this is why I have always hated the DPMS multi..