Attention Beretta M9/92 Modders!

[SpaldingPM]

Quite some talk has arisen lately about upgrading the hammer spring with the D spring. Well FML, I can't find one ANYWHERE in stock!!
I can't even find a wolf spring in stock. Word is, a GI 1911 hammer spring will work, and they're a few lbs lighter. Has anyone ran one before? Any hiccups? Another Idea I have is possible buying another 92 stock spring, and "modifying" it by cutting a few coils off. Is that a horrendous idea? I would do it coil by coil until I reached desired poundage and it gave no malfunctions, also keeping in mind that I would leave enough length for proper function... if its do-able.

What other modifications can I do to lighten up the trigger pull? I know i can polish the stock trigger, so does anyone have any writeups or diagrams on the proper way to do so? I'm not concerned with the DA pull, mainly the SA, as I want to make it more user friendly at shooting 50" NRA bullseye.

Thanks!

Edit* I've also read that some 92 variants don't come with a metal trigger. I'm not very familuar with all the variants, but I know that mine is infact steel, its the standard milspec m9 (not the A1 or anything else).

 

[1775usmarine]

I have a 92F made in 88 that I bought in December. Mine has the steel trigger, guide rod, and I can feel no difference between mine and what I remember shooting while in the service. If I recall correct it has everything that people are looking for. Compared to my 4506, 3913, 5946, and 669 the trigger pull is fairly decent. I followed a YouTube video of a guy who did a trigger job and polish on a 4506. Saw modest improvements of 15% in the accuracy department, as well as a smoother trigger pull. I never cheeked what the trigger pull is on a scale, but would have to guess I shaved a 1 or 2 off it. As far as my 92F I'm happy with what I can achieve at the range. I probably wouldn't mess with mine too much.

 

[darinb]

I have an M9 commerical model.I put a wolff 18lb hammer spring in mine and it works fine. I put a 1911 mainspring in a buddys 96 years ago and he never said he had any problems with it. Id stay away from cutting coils off unless you have to. Wilson Combat is now beretta parts and their metal short reach trigger is great and in SA closely resembles a short GI 1911 trigger. I believe Wilson Combat also still makes spring tuning kits for the 92/96. If youre concerned about the SA Id put another hammer spring in,wilson short reach trigger and do a little polish. Hope this helps.

 

[jfw46544]

Try here. Factory d spring.

Handgun Parts

 

[Twangbanger]

That's a smart mod to make...light recoil & can be used to earn "leg points" in the EIC hardball match, if you shoot NRA bullseye. I've often thought of doing one of these, but got distracted and kept shooting my .45. Would be interested to hear how yours works out...I can always use another project!

 

[Disposable Heart]

Try here. Factory d spring.

Handgun Parts

THIS. Ive tried 1911 mainsprings with marginal success. The weight system doesn't translate over well in my opinion. The D spring made the double action really slick and the single action "softer" (I like my finger to push against a "wave" of weight rather than a "wall" of weight, no glass rods here).

Failing that, go to Wolff directly and wait. If you can't wait, bullseye shooting is not for you. Cutting coils is okay for cars (if you know what you are doing) but rarely a good idea for pistols.

 

[rvb]

D spring. Well FML, I can't find one ANYWHERE in stock!!

If Olhasso doesn't have it, should be relatively quick to BO through brownells.

Word is, a GI 1911 hammer spring will work, and they're a few lbs lighter. Has anyone ran one before? Any hiccups?

Whether it's lighter depends on the weight you choose. I ran a 15lb 1911 mainspring in my 92G EII for ~60 thousand rounds for uspsa/idpa. It was only 100% with Federal primers. W/ Win primers, about 1/10 wouldn't light on the first strike, so a ~17lb 1911 mainspring should be about right for most US made commercial ammo (eastern block stuff like S&B, tula, etc may have even harder primers). Experiment and see. If it's a defensive gun, find what works and add a lb or two. If a range/competition gun, find the lightest that works.

I actually ran w/ 2 coils cut off the 15lb 1911 mainspring for a while. It was so light, I couldn't stand the poor lock time. I could actually notice the time it took for the hammer to fall. I went back to an uncut spring and was much happier. Trigger weight in SA (with hammer hooks cut to ~0.018 iirc and a secondary angle added to the sear) was just under 3lb w/ that setup. I never measure DA, but probably ~7lb.

The nice thing about the 1911 mainspring is it's a touch shorter than the berretta springs. the result was a very consistent DA pull vs the stacking I always noticed w/ a D spring.

Another Idea I have is possible buying another 92 stock spring, and "modifying" it by cutting a few coils off. Is that a horrendous idea?

That's an ok temporary solution while you wait on the springs you want, but if you can get a proper weight spring that's better. for a DA gun, the problem w/ making it shorter is you preload the spring less, and I expect you'll notice some stacking in the trigger weight. cutting a couple coils off a factory FS spring should get you close to the weight of the D spring. (the factory D spring is shorter than the FS, IIRC).

What other modifications can I do to lighten up the trigger pull? I know i can polish the stock trigger, so does anyone have any writeups or diagrams on the proper way to do so? I'm not concerned with the DA pull, mainly the SA, as I want to make it more user friendly at shooting 50" NRA bullseye.

as mentioned above, a real trigger job, such as you'd do for a 1911, makes a huge difference. Shorten and square the hammer hooks, put a small secondary angle on the sear, polish. For DA, polishing the top of the hammer strut makes a huge difference. Then polish the DA hammer hook and sear on the trigger bar.

A lighter hammer (eg the EII) may help a little. Disturb the gun less when it hits and may carry a little more energy if used with light springs (vs a GI hammer) to help w/ ignition, and reduced lock time. Benefit would be pretty negligable, but if you're looking for every little bit...

Edit* I've also read that some 92 variants don't come with a metal trigger. I'm not very familuar with all the variants, but I know that mine is infact steel, its the standard milspec m9 (not the A1 or anything else).

that's good. On a factory gun the plastic covered trigger is fine. It's too heavy and creepy to notice any difference. On a tuned gun, the slight flex in the end of the plastic trigger bothered me.

-rvb