Beretta 92 series. Complete disassembly and reassembly

[geronimojoe85]

Beretta 92 series was one of the original wonder-nines. When the US military began looking for a new sidearm to replace the tired old M-1911 that rode in holsters through two world wars, and countless other conflicts around the globe, Beretta entered their 92 into the trials. Along with several others including the Sig P226, and Ruger P-85.
Some could say that the 92 had the others beat in the trials. Others would say that it's because the 92 was the unit cost was less than that of the Sig P226. Still some would say that the decision was made as a political one to appease the Italian government for our continued presence in their country. Whatever the actual reason is, we adopted the 92 as the new M9 in 1985.

Now this guide will cover the disassembly and reassembly of the Beretta 92 series. Specifically this model is a 92f.
This guide will not help you with the Taurus PT92, I know the taurus is "just a copy" but it's enough different to cause some hang-ups for you. Also some early models of the beretta have some differences such as a frame mounted safety and a magazine release about 3/4 of an inch from the butt on the left side.

For the purposes of brevity I will begin pictures after the basic fields trip.

First ensure that the weapon is clear, actuate the takedown lever with the thumb and forefinger and remove the slide from the frame by sliding it forward. Remove the guide rod and spring. Release the locking block and remove the barrel from the frame. And it should look like this:
Beginning with the slide we will start by taking out the firing pin block. Using a punch drive the pin out from right to left:

With the pin removed and the punch in its place flip the slide so the bottom is facing you.
With your finger over the block remove the punch and lift the block out:


Followed by the spring, a punch or a thin screwdriver makes it easy to handle small coil springs:

Rotate the safety lever into the safe position and, using a punch, drive out the two small pins that hold the left side safety lever in place:


Remove the left side safety lever:

While pushing up on the right side safety lever push the transfer pin forward:
(Oops missed one)


After pulling out slightly you can remove the spring and detent.

But wait there's more!
With your finger over the other side of the safety, push it out and you'll release another spring and detent in the slide.


Now just slide out the safety:


Remove the transfer pin from the safety:

Using a punch from the bottom drive this pin out of the slide:


Withdraw the punch and place your index finger over the rear of the slide, and thumb over the extractor:

As you remove the extractor, you will release the firing pin. Remove the extractor and spring:

And slide the firing pin out of the frame:

And the slide is done.

Now moving on to the barrel:

Remove the locking block by lifting the large side up as far as possible and sliding it to either side:

Then push on the nose a little and out she comes:


Now with a small punch drive out this roll pin:

And remove the... Uh... This piece. It's name escapes me:


And now the frame:


Remove the grip screws and grip panels:

Remove the magazine release:



Remove the spring and collets from the magazine release:


Remove the slide release by pushing the lever up and pushing it out of the frame:




With a small screwdriver lift the slide release spring out of the frame.

And pull the whole darn thing out:


Now remove the trigger bar by removing this small spring:

Push from the inside on the trigger bar until it clears the trigger:


And out it comes:


Push on the right side of the take down lever retainer:

Rotate the take down lever up and out of the left side of the frame:

Remove the takedown lever retainer and spring from the right side of the frame:

Remove the trigger and trigger spring by pushing out this pin with a punch:

Remove the punch and slide the trigger and spring up and out of the frame:


Using a punch, drive the mainspring retaining pin out of the frame:


Place your thumb over the lanyard loop and remove your punch:

Now you can remove the lanyard loop and spring:


To remove the hammer, push this pin out of the frame:


And lift the hammer out of the frame:


By turning the frame upside down the strut will fall out:

Now we can remove the ejector by driving out the pins that holds it in the frame rear first:

Then front:


You will also remove the hammer release lever and firing pin block lever as you draw out the punch:

You can now drive out the sear pin:

As you draw the punch out you can remove the sear and it's spring:


And there you have it, a bunch of pieces where a gun used to be:

 

[geronimojoe85]

Reassembly:

Start by placing the sear into the frame with this small notch facing forward:


Place the spring into the slot and hold everything in place by running a punch through to align the sear and spring:


Push the punch out with the sear pin:


Prepare to put the ejector, hammer release lever, and the firing pin block lever into the frame:


Align the three parts in the frame using a punch (you will start the punch on the opposite side, I uses this side to get clearer pictures):


Note that the hammer release lever is behind the sear:


And the firing pin block lever sits like this:


Push out the punch with the pin:


And drive the pin home:


Now replace the rear roll pin into the frame, gently tap with a hammer and finish with a punch:


Place the hammer strut into the frame:



Place the hammer into the frame and replace the hammer pin:



Place the mainspring on the hammer strut:


Place the lanyard loop over the mainspring:


Compress the mainspring and place a punch through the frame and lanyard loop:



Drive the roll pin into the frame:



Slide the trigger into the frame:


Align the trigger and spring with a punch:


Place the trigger pin into the frame and draw out the punch:


Orient the slide release spring on the slide release like this:


Place the end of the spring onto the frame:


Rotate the assembly so the stud on the slide release finds it's hole:


Continue rotating the slide release as you slide it into the frame:


Place the rear of the release over the frame and home:


Prepare to place the trigger bar into place, using a pick or a sophisticated tool such as a bent paperclip(surely, you didn't think that you were going to work on something Italian without using a sophisticated tool), hook the rear arm of the trigger spring and bring it forward of the trigger:



Push the trigger bar into place:


Remove your sophisticated tool and it should look like this:


Place the small wire spring into the frame under the trigger bar, compress the wire until it fits under the trigger bar:


Place the takedown lever retainer spring into the right side of the frame:


Place the takedown lever retainer into the frame and hold it into the frame:


Place the takedown lever into the frame and rotate it into position:



You'll notice the collets for the magazine release have different length doo-dads on them:


These doo-dads match their respective homes in the magazine release:


Place the spring in the collets and start them in the slot on the magazine release:



Carefully place the magazine release into the frame:




Now replace the grips and grip screws:


And there you have it. It's 50% gun but I'm 100% tired, I'll finish this up in the morning.
ProTip: place any small parts or tools in a bag or in a drawer, you don't want to have the cat presenting you with springs and pins that he's chased down and killed to death.

Now for the barrel:


Place the locking block plunger into the barrel:


Drive the locking block plunger pin in with a punch:


Place the locking block between the barrel lugs:


And home:


Now for the slide.

Gather the firing pin, firing pin spring, extractor, extractor spring, and firing pin block. So check this out place the firing pin and it's spring in the back of the slide in the firing pin channel. The extractor groove in the firing pin should be visible through the groove in the slide:


Now to hold the firing pin in place while you put the extractor in, place the firing pin block through its slot in the top of the slide like this:


Place the extractor spring in its hole:
(Missing picture)

And place the extractor in its groove and align the pinholes with a punch from the bottom:



Place the pin in its hole while drawing the punch out, finish with a punch and hammer from the top:



Remove the firing pin block and set it aside for later.

Place the transfer pin into the safety:

Begin sliding the safety into place:
(Picture missing again)

Put the spring and detent into the slide:


Compress the detent and slide the safety over it:


Place the spring and detent into the safety here:


Compress the detent as you slide the safety home:



Place the left side safety into its slot and replace the roll pins with a punch and hammer:



Now place the firing pin block spring into the slide:


And place the firing pin block into place:



Using a punch hold the firing pin block in place and start the roll pin with a hammer:


Drive the pin home using a punch:


And that's your slide:


Now place the barrel in the slide, put the guide rod and spring in place, put the slide on the frame and rotate the takedown lever up and you have a gun again. Do a quick function check and if you did everything g right it will be a gun again:

 

[indykid]

As a lover of the Series 92, great post!

 

[BGDave]

Absolutely fearless. Thanks again. What did we do before Al Gore invented the internet?

 

[IndyGunworks]

Fantastic post.... These threads you are making are going to draw people in from all across the nation.

 

[baldmax]

Thank you for the great post. It will help me with possible upgrades.

 

[DocIndy]

Great post! I plan on replacing the plastic pieces in my 92 and this is a huge help.

 

[bucncrazy]

Thanks! very helpful!!!

 

[1775usmarine]

Funny I bought a 92F last night while at the Blythes meet and shoot this will come in handy. Just a quick question I know the early M9/92F's had slide failures was there a recall or a fix issued? I had the newer M9's while I was in the service. but makes s me a little nervous if it were to fail on me.

 

[trophyhunter]

They changed the hammer pin on the M9's ~ 92F's in order to retain the slide if it fails, I believe the FS series all have the newer style enlarged pin.

 

[geronimojoe85]

The slide failures that were reported were on military guns that were firing 147grain (subsonic) ammunition with a suppressor attached. The only difference between the 92f and 92fs is the hammer pin is enlarged to keep the slide from coming off of the frame (and towards your face) if the slide fails. In my opinion, if you're not running a can, you're not going to have a problem with the gun, even running hot stuff through it.

There's actually a pretty good write up on it here:
The Gun Zone -- The M9 Slide Failures

 

[flightsimmer]

Fantastic post, but Good Lord!, just give me a 1911A1, it only takes a minute. LOL

 

[narcosis]

Great post, how about the same for an HK tactical?

 

[public servant]

Great post, how about the same for an HK tactical?

The bad thing is...he doesn't even know yet...

 

[M67]

Sweet, never had a 92 apart before, just heard fun stories from a couple gunsmiths

Thanks for the pics

 

[hrearden]

Very informative. The pics are excellent. One thing to consider is taking the safety out of the slide inside a large gallon clear plastic bag (works with M1 bolts of all varieties as well). That way, your hand will fit and you will be able to view the disassembly at the same while preventing any of the little springs and detents from becoming air soluble. This is actually taught in the armorers class.

 

[bakeman]

great post. thanks!

 

[geronimojoe85]

Very informative. The pics are excellent. One thing to consider is taking the safety out of the slide inside a large gallon clear plastic bag (works with M1 bolts of all varieties as well). That way, your hand will fit and you will be able to view the disassembly at the same while preventing any of the little springs and detents from becoming air soluble. This is actually taught in the armorers class.

I like to use a dry cleaning bag, you get the same results.
Just don't let it get over your face, but I like to live dangerously.

 

[rvb]

Here is a vid I made some time ago showing the difference in takedown for a 92G.
Sorry for the slight out of focus....

Beretta 92FS 92G Safety.mp4 - YouTube

-rvb

 

[92FSM9PDW]

GeronimoJoe85:

Sir, I recently found myself in a bit of a pickle with regard to installing a new safety into my 92FS. After a lot of searching, I found your INCREDIBLE instructions, with detailed photographs. In no time at all, I had everything put together! I wanted to thank you for all the time and effort that went into making those instructions. What was REALLY nice, for me, is you didn't do like I think a lot of others would have done, which would be to just say "to reassemble, just reverse everything covered in disassembly." No, instead, you did instructions AND PHOTOGRAPHS on the whole reassembly process... which is PRECISELY what I needed!!!

I'm so very grateful, sir. Thanks very, very, very much.